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paneermeel

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Hi,

engine starts at ones but when the pumps starts i must rev it to keep it going. It smokes a lot. If i disconnect the + of the pump it runs normal in a couple of seconds until the carb is empty or i connect the + again and it builds up the pressure ones again.

I use a SPI tank with a SPI pump through a rising rate fuelregulator. I screwed the bolt the whole way out on top of the regulator.I have set the float in the carb so that when you have the carb upside down the lowest point of the float is level with the carbbody(found this somewhere on this site).

I was told that the pump was to strong, it's a injectionpump on a carb engine. So today i splitted the feed and return and made a bypase so the fuel could go around before it even reaches the regulator. I made this right after the tank.

It still does not run idle with out the use of the right foot*oh well*

I need to check the presure of the fuel to the carb, but i don't have a meter to check it. I'm tring to find one for a reasonble price.

What i want to know is: more people use the SPI pump, did they do more modification to get it working?

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl


evolotion

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you should not use a rising rate reg with a carb, you need a fixed rate regulator like the standard metro turbo item.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


stevieturbo

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the pump isnt an issue. Choice of FPR is.

As is the needle valve sealing correctly.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


paneermeel

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I starting to think if i said the right thing about the regulator.

The one i have is here on page 35.

http://www.fuelsystem.co.uk/Malpassi%20Fue...0Regulators.pdf

i now even read that it should reduce the presure from the pump to the carb.

carb is rebuild and the needle valve closed perfectly.

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl


stevieturbo

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FPR012 would be suitable,m although the term "rising rate" can be misleading and confusing.

But that is the correct "boost referenced" regulator.

If the engine is stalling due to flooding, then the needle valve is not closed perfectly.

What fuel pressure do you have ? And what pressure have you tested the needle valve too to ensure it will seal ?

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


paneermeel

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FPR09/012 it's the one i have.
At the moment i don't know what the pressure is. I don't have a meter to check it, yet *blush*

When i put the carb back together i blew as hard as i could and it did not leak any air. When i lifted the float is started to let some air pass. I don't know for sure if this was the correct way to check it but it is the only way i could think off *Idea*

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl


apbellamy

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I think you need to get the fuel pressure set at the regulator. If it's too high it will just overwhelm the float valve.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


paneermeel

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One thing i'm not sure about is the fine red writing at the bottom of the page.

It says that the regulator reduces the pressure from 60 psi to 5 psi. But i belief that we want 3-4 psi. What will the effect be for that one psi to much *Confused*

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl


theoneeyedlizard

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5psi might be ok, but without a gauge in there to measure the fuel pressure, you could have it set much higher.

In the 13's at last!.. Just


Ben H

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In my experience so long as it is not being forced passed the needle valve it is fine. Setting the FPR pressure to 3/4psi is not critical, but it does have to be at least 3/4psi. I have successfully set the pressure with this (perhaps bodgy way)

Remove the dash pot. Slowly increase the pressure until it passes the valve and squirts through the jet. Now back off the pressure until it stops and that is about right. This only works though if you have a known good float valve and the fueling is well set up. If not I would recommend a fuel pressure gauge.

I know the risks involved in this but if somebody wants to point them out that is fine.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
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A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.


stevieturbo

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On 31st Oct, 2010 paneermeel said:
FPR09/012 it's the one i have.
At the moment i don't know what the pressure is. I don't have a meter to check it, yet *blush*

When i put the carb back together i blew as hard as i could and it did not leak any air. When i lifted the float is started to let some air pass. I don't know for sure if this was the correct way to check it but it is the only way i could think off *Idea*


If you can blow more than 1psi, I'll be surprised.

Needle valve will barely hold 5psi.

So first obvious thing to do would be to see what fuel pressure you actually have. You're wasting your time otherwise.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


paneermeel

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I did some checks i can do without a meter *hehe!*

- i took the dashpot off and screwed the screw on top of the regulator in, i did not see any fuel coming(?).

- i took the fuel feed of the carb to see if the carb is getting it's fuel and yes it flows nicely.

- i attached a other hose to the carb so it would be gravity fed and started the engine. The problems are the same. At first a lot of stutter and when the first part of petrol has gone it starts to run more smootly.

So i think the problem is in the carb *Idea*

I looked ones again on how to set the floatheight and the hollowpart should be 1 mm lower then the carb facings. I set it perfectly level. But the problem goes away when the level of petrol is getting lower and if i set it according the rebuild guide it is getting higher.

And if the needlevalve is not closing properly i would expect some fuel when i remove the dashpot out of the carb.

I will try to get a meter tomorrow to see what the pressures where talking about.

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl


paneermeel

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On 31st Oct, 2010 stevieturbo said:



So first obvious thing to do would be to see what fuel pressure you actually have. You're wasting your time otherwise.



I got a meter today and i measure 3,5 psi*happy*

So the fuelpresure is not the problem at the moment.

Since there is no fuel coming out of the carb when you remove the dashpot i would expect the needlevalve closing. So i am suspecting the floatheight. If the fuel level drops in the floatcamber it runs better. Only thing what contradicts this the rebuild guide who i telling me i should allow the fuel level to get 1 mm higher.

If someone can explain me this before i put everything together would be perfect*happy*

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl


stevieturbo

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Does the piston move up and down freely in the dashpot chamber ?

And float height doesnt seem to have a massive impact on running.

More likely it's either a spring, oil or simple mixture setting ( needle/jet height ) issue then

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


paneermeel

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On 1st Nov, 2010 stevieturbo said:
Does the piston move up and down freely in the dashpot chamber ?

And float height doesnt seem to have a massive impact on running.

More likely it's either a spring, oil or simple mixture setting ( needle/jet height ) issue then


The piston moves freely, the engine responds fine to the funpedal*happy*

I now tried reving the engine and then attached the + of the pump. It immediately starts to run rough and it smokes a lot.
I also lowered the floatheight but the problem is still the same.

The way i think it is getting to much fuel, but why? The strange thing that i can not explain is when i disconnect the pump and feed the carb just with a tube the problem is still the same. The needlevalve should hold that easy.

How can i test the needlevalve? I tested myself and i blew just short of 2 psi on the meter. The needlevalve is holding that when i hold the carb up-side-down.

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl


paneermeel

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next to the fuelfeed is a pipe you should block off. I removed the plug and started the pump. Fuel flowed out of it? I don't know if this is normal?
I'm hoping this could help to get to a solution.

number 4....



there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl


paneermeel

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The Netherlands




On 1st Nov, 2010 paneermeel said:
I don't know if this is normal?
I'm hoping this could help to get to a solution.



anyone??

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl


paneermeel

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ok,
i changed the float needle with one from a other carb and now the anti run on valve stays dry, no more fuel coming out of there.

But the problem is still there *angry*

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl


stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland

So...explain very clearly what the problem is.

All I have picked up so far, is that it doesnt idle ?

Which could be very very easy to fix.

Have you adjusted the mixture screw ?
Does the choke work ?

Has someone competent looked at the car ? ie with an ability to diagnose problems ?

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


paneermeel

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The Netherlands




On 2nd Nov, 2010 stevieturbo said:
So...explain very clearly what the problem is.

- ok:)

All I have picked up so far, is that it doesnt idle ?


- it' idle's en runs but only WITHOUT the fuelpump working. When it is getting fuel it starts to splutter and stops. If i rev it a lot i can keep it running for some time. But is smokes a lot.



Have you adjusted the mixture screw ?

- is 2 turns out according to the rebuildguide, i have not touched it yet(read below)


Does the choke work ?

- must check this tonight


Has someone competent looked at the car ? ie with an ability to diagnose problems ?

- i'm the only one who has looked at the problem. and knews somethings about cars but this is mine first engine build so i am learning along the way.


I talked about mine engine problems with a mechanic and i have one thing i must check. You also suspected the mixture. If i screw the mixturescrew in i lift the needletube slightly higher above the fuellevel in mine carb. This could explane why it runs better when i disconnect the fuelpump and the fuellevel drops. it wouls also explaine why it is starting perfectly without i even touching the choke. With the fuellevel that i have now in the carb it's always choking. Tonight it's the first thing i am going to try.

I will keep you informed

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl


paneermeel

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YIP YIP HOERA it run's.

I removed the chokepart and when i pulled it out of the carb i saw that a O-ring was broken. I replaced it with a other one and tada now it runs with the pump on *happy*

It still is not running 100% but that can be sorted with a dynosession.

Thanx for the help and advice.

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl

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