Looking for Metro turbo engine breakdown of components
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi all hope you can help ive searched but cant find much info im looking for info on the metro tubro engine breakdown including images for all components and correct plumbing of each,

hope that makes sence and you can help.

:)

Confessed addiction to everything mini

You need to do some better searching matey as it's all available on here.

Stick with it.

Richard.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

As already said, have a search and you'll see a thread by Tom Fenton (I think) which outlines the metro turbo myths, lots of information on there, if you need pictures then you can be more specific :)

What I know:

Some heads are stamped with a "T" near the heater outlet on the head, not all are though so if you don't have a T, don't assume its N/A

The valve stems on the exhaust are 8mm, if you take off the rocker cover you can see the difference between exhaust and inlet

Pistons - in my experience are stamped 20831 with an A or B in the crown, usually pitted and suffering from signs of detonation :)

Final drive: 3.2, only A series gearbox fitted with this ratio I believe

Carb: Not really too much different, in that a N/A can be used on a turbo, but there are some difference that I can't be bothered to list

Inlet manifold is different, has a thicker "J" flange on it so marry up with the exhaust manifold. Also I think it was "shorter" to allow the carb and plenum chamber to fit nicely.

Has an ECU fitted which allows the boost to be raised to 7psi at some point.

The cam is a standard metro one, NOT an MG metro item

Distributor is different, I can't remember the code off the top of my head.

*there were 2 types of crank, the standard 6232 and a 6581 (I believe) which was a hardened type, later discontinued*

Not much more I can think of really :)

Seriously though, have a search and spend many many hours reading, there is so much useful information on here!

Edited by Amp on 14th Nov, 2010.

Cool thanks have been searching through lots of great info but struggling to find photographs of engine with discriptions ill keep looking tho

Confessed addiction to everything mini

What photo's are you after in particular, I may be able to sort some out?

thanks for the replys will try and get some pis of mine up and then i can explain what im trying to figure out

Confessed addiction to everything mini

Hi all hope these photos clear up what im talking about!! :)

ps thanks for the help

question 1 is what would be the reason for the rad on the left hand side with blue pipes that looks like its replaced the heater matrix?



2 The inlet manifold has been cut where the water pipes connect what are the positives and negatives of this modification

noticed this today too so going to have to get this out :(

3 impritty sure but would like confermation that pictured is the standard wastegate, with the addition of a bleed valve are these sufficiant or will i require an uprated one?

looking forward to the rebuild next year :)

Confessed addiction to everything mini

1 - As it goes from the heater outlet, i assume the previous owner had overheating issues, or was afraid of them, so fitted a second radiator!

2 - Positives- more room in the engine bay
Negatives- can't make it water cooled/heated, but in my opinion that's a good thing as you want inlet temps lower

2.2- it will be easier if you take that section off, i've had to do it before!

3 - Haven't a clue i'm afraid!

Thanks amp 1, if its for engine cooling the connecting pipes wont have a great deal of flow!
2 cooler intake temps was the only thing i could think of but as they are situated so close surly the inlet manifold is always at a higher temp?!
2.2 think it will be easier where did you get your stud from?
3 oki

Confessed addiction to everything mini

It's not a stud, it's a bolt. M8 from memory, but best to check with one of the other bolts.

Confessed addiction to everything mini

No, it bolts through the elbow into the turbo. same as the bottom 2 bolts in the elbow.

EDIT: Not sure about the actuator.

Edited by apbellamy on 17th Nov, 2010.

o right just that the other two are studs! hence my assumption that the third would follow suit, thanks for the info tho!


interested in others opinions on questions 1,2 & 3 in 16th nov post :)

Confessed addiction to everything mini

No there are some studs holding the end plate of the turbo on. The snapped bolt and the other two that hold the elbow on are bolts. you can see that in your pic's.

People often replace the proper bolts with studs/nuts.... and usually use the wrong grade of steel hence why it sheared off.

Be carefull drilling it out, the drill may easily wander into the casting and do more damage.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

thanks for the advice Rod going to go in with a 3mm to start it off then hopfully get some easyouts on her fingers crossed she comes out alright!
any ideas about the extra rad?

Confessed addiction to everything mini

For referecnce should anyone be searching the same, i have found that Ripspeed setup used to use an extra radiator in rallycross due to the low speeds requireing all the cooling possible, although the size of the connecting pipes weremuch larger than the onces used in the photo in above posts.

still interested in more reasons about the manifold mods?

Confessed addiction to everything mini

Looks like a water heated manifold that the ends have rusted up on so the've been cut off. Only other thing i can see is what looks like an air line connector sticking out the top.