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blue blood

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Stourbridge West-Midlands

Hey everybody i just wanted peoples opinions on galvanising a front subframe. I have seen on the 16v mini forum a subframe before that has been galvanised do you think it will work properly on a standard subframe without warping to much? I would go for powder coating but its just a bit naf you knock it and it chips of and if moisture gets under it it flecks of at a very fast rate i just want a more substantial anti rust hard wearing finish! Regards Blu


Tom Fenton
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I personally would not, as it will weigh a bloody ton afterwards.

I've just had mine shotblasted, when I've done the mods I am planning for it I am going to etch prime and then paint it in 2 pack black.


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Rod S

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My Series 3 LandRover has an aftermarket hot dipped galvanised chassis which I bought for it and it is fine BUT the material is much thicker (3mm).

It also has drain holes, weld locations etc. in the design specifically to allow it to be hot dipped.

Personal opinoin only, but I would think it would be risky on a Mini subframe unless the welds/drain holes etc. were modified slightly to suit the process.

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johnK

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Warpage is the main concern - when we designed the Elise rear subframe - designed to be galvanised there was a built in factor for the welding drawing to allow for warpage during dipping - something scary like 5 or 6mm at points - a lot of the critical wishbone points were drilled afterwards.

Have you considered autophoritic coating - much more 21st century!

JK

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Jason G

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As Tom said. Some places even do phosphating for extra protection. Once sand blasted take it to painters, problably cost less than £100. Alot of powder coating firms do wet spraying too, so it doesn't have to be automotive sprayers.

On 19th Jan, 2010 wil_h said:
I would start the furthest place from the finish.


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stevieturbo

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Why would it warp ? I take it it is dipped in molten zinc ?
Wouldnt the front subframe be pretty damn strong though ?

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Jason G

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It wouldn't warp. It would be approx' 5 % more weight though!

On 19th Jan, 2010 wil_h said:
I would start the furthest place from the finish.


On 24th Mar, 2012 apbellamy said:
I feel all special knowing that I've given your mum my wood.


Been neglecting Turbo'd 'A' series..............


Ben H

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On 1st Dec, 2010 stevieturbo said:
Why would it warp ? I take it it is dipped in molten zinc ?
Wouldnt the front subframe be pretty damn strong though ?


The process (as I remember) involves heating the material to be galvernised up to a similar temperature to the zinc. Otherwise it won't stick.

Seems excessive to me, though. How many front subframes rot out? It is the rear that is the problem.

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rubicon

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as Ben says,
i asume you fitting an A-series, then no doubt you'l get an oil leak at some point thus rust proofing it for free...

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turbochargedstu

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i did the front one and rear on mine. had to re-tap and open up all the needed holes afterwards though.

balls to the blower!!!



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h4887

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According to BS EN ISO 1461 the mean coating weight should be about 300 grams per square metre, or just over 1 ounce per square foot.

Geoff

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