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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Inlet manifolds

tadge44

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Buckinghamshire

When the A35 was normaly aspirated I used a Janspeed inlet manifold, which I still have.

It was reckoned to be one of the best when it was produced and I wonder if it will add anything to the turbocharged engine that I am building*
(I have already trial fitted it and there are no clearance proplems, but it does add quite a bit of downdraught, which actually eases the installation, for me )

*Modified M/T pistons, N/A MG cam, Turbophil head, flowed M/T exhaust manifold and GT17 turbo -looking at 15psi and maybe 165 bananas ?)


John

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Mongo

Barnsley, South Flatcapshire

I can't see why not dave.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.


Rob Gavin

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6729 Posts
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Glasgow

don't know about the manifold issue but 165bhp in the A35 is going to be lots of fun!


tadge44

3006 Posts
Member #: 2500
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Buckinghamshire

If realised,(IF !) I will need some £200 half shafts, but these stick out so that I cant use the chrome hub caps and that loses me my stealth capability.


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

I presume your already on shafts from somthing like a midget?

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



tadge44

3006 Posts
Member #: 2500
Post Whore

Buckinghamshire

Yes, Midget shafts and I have half a dozen spares, but its not that convenient to change them at the roadside if one goes.

The replacements are better material with the drive flange pressed on to a slow taper and then secured with a rather large nut. This is the bit that sticks out.


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Ah, I see,

It would be a shame to mess with the look of the A35,

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



tadge44

3006 Posts
Member #: 2500
Post Whore

Buckinghamshire

What do the experts reckon if I was to cut or turn off the thread and weld the flange to the taper ?.


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

&

TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

I would be reluctant to weld to it if it is known to break, the weld procedure will leave a heat affected zone.

Can you do us a sketch of the arrangement then perhaps we can suggest an answer, how about turning off the big thread and drilling and tapping the shaft to use a bolt into it perhaps?


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

maybe reduce the sticky out bit as much as possible and add a small wheel spacer?

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



tadge44

3006 Posts
Member #: 2500
Post Whore

Buckinghamshire

I understand the effect of the weld, but it would be only on the very end of the shaft, well away from the taper and the usual area where they are stressed (the part just inside the wheel bearing, which is a semi floating arrangement)
It would be a shame to spoil one, given how expensive they are.

I had thought of reducing the size of the nut and the threaded portion, but the idea of this and a spacer appeals to me -thanks for the idea Joe.

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