Mega jolt running rough.. ** now working!! next question!
Turbo Mini Forums

I set up mega jolt and the it started first go! He wheel is sitting top
Dead centre.

But it is running like a sack of nails. :(

I have not hooked up a computer yet though, just started it as is.

What do I need to do next?

Do i need I set timing or anything?? No idea what to do next
Dizzy is in time and wOrking perfect for now.

Edited by NickG on 27th Dec, 2010.

When you say the wheel is sat TDC, what do you mean?

If the notch is at TDC, the sensor needs to be 90degrees prior to it, ie; at the front. What bracket are you using?

I using ben92"s who does the sc12 kit

The kit he supplys is set up perefct
Trigger is tdc with sensor at 90 degree.

I think I started it in it's limp mode to test?

No maps are loaded yet.

If no maps are loaded then it'll be running at 0 degrees and VERY rough!

You need to get some values in the boxes and set up the X and Y axis values.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

unplug the MJ box, it should be running with 10° btdc by default. should be quite smooth, at least all my engines are running good with 10° at idle.
if it does, check the map.

nick load the map I gave you and re try..

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Thanks I will try that today. I have not loaded the map you gave me Graham as I'm still na. I just want to sort the mega jolt first.

I'll load a na map I have one from klass for a 266 cam and the aldon yellow.

See if it makes a difference.

i unplugged my MJ unit and the car wont start in limp mode.

plug the computer back in starts right up but running really rough.
i can see all values on the computer & i put a map onto the megajolt.

nothing has changed.

one thing i have not done that im going to do soon in the next 1hr is check the timing.

i have not taken my dizzy out, just unplugged power feed.

it still has what ever advance set etc when i got it tuned?

would i be right in thinking that the dizzy is still trying to mechanical advance? while my mega jolt is trying to spark etc.

totally mucking things up?

i did a search i timing could be a problem also.

maybe een this below? i have the same kit.

http://www.autosportlabs.org/viewtopic.php...ea4c2c9feed52f7

if some knew about this locally i would take it to them but they all are more onto other types of more expensive systems.

Edited by NickG on 21st Dec, 2010.

if it won't start in limp home you have something wrong with the hardware set up, i would say.
if it runs with MJ connected check it with a timing light and compare what you see at the crank with what the software is telling you.

the dizzy won't do anything

i think you need to start from the beginning, check you have a power supply to the mj, check your wiring pip and saw and check you have a small amount of voltage to these. check you have the ht leads on the right plugs and have a strong spark, check your timing and vr sensor is at the right gap and position.

If the dizzy is not connected to the spark plugs it is doing nothing. It cannot effect the timing at all.

How are you disconnecting the MJ from the EDIS? The car should start with just the EDIS plugged in.

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Ok, I will check. The software advance
Won't change from 12 an below it has a 3 degree?

I Try change it to 10 advance to start but it won't commit keeps saying error.

firstly ill start to tell you what i have done & what i have not.

firstly it will not start in limp mode.

it starts with the mega jolt plugged in but sounds like a bag of nails riding on a lawn mower. lol

I changed the timing advance to 12 playing & committed a map & now it wont start with the mega jolt at all.

it wont let me change it back to 10 degrees & has a 3 below ( deegre maybe? it keeps coming up with a error

i drove the car on the dizzy & just had the mega jolt running to confirm it was working & it does pick up revs & other things seem to work and i could even create a data log?

i have not gapped the plugs, was only using normal plugs not resistor type leads either. but i do have some new resistor plugs. what gap should they be?

i have not gapped the sensor plug it sits very close but not sure how close it needs to be? it's a kit as i said.

i have limited knowledge & winging this as i go sort of so be kind. :oops:

One thing i know i need to confirm is the timing?

i have never used a timing light but i will give anything a go to learn or i can get some one to do it for me.
:oops:

im close to getting it to work, i can feel it! the last hurdles are annoying me.

i can confirm the trigger wheel tooth sits Tdc & the plug is 90 degree to it.

i also put leads No 1 plug is by the water pump. Running right to left, number 4 is by the flywheel.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/ben%209...92/P1010251.jpg my trigger wheel.

what should i be looking at ?
plug gap
sensor gap
timing & that degree option?

then what do i adjust on the mea jolt? i noticed when it was idling it was showing between 9 touching 10 kinda up & down quickly on the mega jolt.

what is it making a commit error when trying to change advance maps load up fine & i can retrieve them from the mega jolt also, so it is communicating.


thanks lads for the help, hopefully i can get this going.

very much appreciate the help

Edited by NickG on 21st Dec, 2010.

I'm not trying to be an arse, but I think you should let someone with some megajolt experience have a look.

Hi Anton all good.

no one runs a mega jolt in bisbane Australia or I would absolutely love to give it to them

I'll just try work it out.

if it runs with the MJ box connected what does the timing light shows?
has to be the same what the software shows.
don`t play with the map, just make sure the programe shows the same value you can see at the crank

I would first check the gap from the VR sensor to the trigger wheel and then ensure that the connection from the VR sensor to the EDIS is shielded and the shield is earthed at the EDIS end.

The non resistor plugs may not be helping,so a new set of the right type plugs, initally set at 25 thou gap is an easy thing to try.
As above, see what the actual timing is at tickover, with a timing light.The engine should run reliably at tickover if the timing is anywhere near right, but it sounds as if you have irregular timing

Re-check all you wiring connections and soldering, including the earths, as a matter of course.

right so i sorted the starting issue.

the coil pack creamed it self lol



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still running rough. the sensor i think could be the problem it looks to be sitting to the side and not the centre of the trigger wheel.

will try space it out with some washers or something.

something wrong here, the coil should not do that. check you wiring I would say.

common problem with the coil packs im told. in hot climates.

the new one starts up the car though.

Have you definitely wired it up correctly?

Did you follow the diagram viewing it from the harness side of the plug...easy mistake to make.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

the harness is a sd mini harness. the sensor looks to be sitting to the left & not in the centre of the trigger wheel.

would this cause a problem?

ideally the centre, but i suspect aslong as the centre of the vr is picking up a signal then it should be ok, put a voltage meter on, you should get a very small reading. the vr should be abt 1mm gap.

thanks for the reply i tested it today.

we are getting voltage on the sensor tested everything getting power & spark.

old coil pack was dead, as you can see above

the sensor is sitting a fair bit to the left i run out of time but tomorrow i will make sure it is sitting dead on the tooth & centralised.

everything seems right the sensor does not seem right to me, should it be sitting on the tooth or on the gap when missing tooth is TDC?

When the engine is at TDC the missing tooth should be at the top (12 O clock) and providing the sensor is at exactly 90 derees BTDC (9 O clock) it should be pointing towards a tooth.

If it is showing an RPM on your computer screen you can be 99% certain it is working correctly.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Me and nick had a play with it today.
Should the vacuum line go to an equaliser tube on the intake manifold, or could it go to one of the vacuum advance ports on the carb?

In boost we trust