Adjust Handbrake
Turbo Mini Forums

How do you do it?

My mini failed on the handbrake, but the actual foot-brakes are fine (hard pedal and stops on a dime)

Never attempted to do anything brake-y before, so any advice would be appreciated

-a

I have never done it either, I do not believe it is a hard job though,

This may be some help..... http://www.somerford-mini.co.uk/pdfs/Catal...4-Handbrake.pdf

My 79 Clubman Build Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=451008

Jamie.

Or just renew the cable as it may have just met its stretch limit, Surely say in the Haynes manual?

My 79 Clubman Build Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=451008

Jamie.

I haven't got a haynes to hand - and we're moving house tomorrow so it's not something I can just grab! :) I'll dig it out after the move.

Could try the cables too - easy enough to change.

Is it single cable or dual? either way, they have a threaded section which screws into the back of the hand break lever. easy enough to do.

However, as one side is stronger than the other, it's probably adjustment on the shoes.

Lift the wheel and run in the adjuster (square bolt on the back plate) until you can hear a small amount of contact when rotating the wheel.

I adjusted those threads before the MOT

Interestingly, the car suddely started grabbing, and wouldn't roll, when I got back to the driveway after failing the MOT. I wonder if something was just jammed? I'll whip it apart at the weekend and have a look.

first of all, make sure the rear brakes are adjusted correctly; only then start adjusting the cable to suit.

You may have to free off the adjusters on the backplate and ease off the cable initially to allow the shoes to be adjusted. I usually pop the drums off the check the shoes etc - depending on how adjusted they already are, you might get them off without backing off the adjusters. Adjuster generally frees off with some penetrating oil and worst case a bit of head.

Also check the handbrake quadrants are not siezed; if they are, you'll need to free these off. Also lubicate the cable where is pulls through the front of the frame to the tunnel

With everything all back together, adjust the shoes until the drum effectively locks and then back it off until it rotates relatively freely (I tend to re-centre the shoes each time i adjust them by pulling on the handbrake cable).

Once you have set the drums, then adjust the cable to suit; usually 5 clicks or so does it on the lever.

don't even bother without the correct adjuster spanner though; you are more than likley going to screw up the adjuster if it is at all siezed.

hope my garble makes a bit of sense

Rob

It does, but it all sounds rather complex compared to how easy disc brakes are!!

I hate these bloody cars!

now now!

Ha ha.

Nah, piece of cake

I have never looked at the rear brakes since I rebuilt them in 2006, and there was not much to be concerned about, so I now know not to worry about it for another 5 years now that I have re built them again, onnly adjust them once in a while. The brake shoes are still like new, and the car has been driven hard, but nit so many miles.

I did the shoes about 5 years ago, but the car has done less than 1k miles since then, so who knows. Probably full of rust in there.

you normally need to adjust them up a bit after inital bedding in