Arrrrggghh!! flywheel removel
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi all

Just bought a puller today to take the flywheel- clutch off so I can strip my engine.

1st attempt and its broke after that I have read a few forums they mention heating it (don't want to do)
And setting pulley up and leaving over night.

Has anyone got any other tips as this is setting me back

Also questioning the quality of the puller (machine mart) so if anyone knows of a good place to get a pulley that would be great.

Also the flywheel is a mini sport item don't no if this makes any difference


Cheers sean

Halfords sell a flywheel puller, as for heating, what is the reason for not wanting to? I have used a paintstripping gun in the past which has worked perfectly!

If its a verto they can be a pain to get off, best is to get the puller on it (after you have fixed it) and put on as much pressure as you dare (without sticking a scaffold tube on the end and twisting off the head of the bolt) pour boiling water on it, tap it through the starter hole, dont stand in front of it if you value parts of your anatomy, leave it overnight with the puller still attached, i have seen them spring off on their own sometimes with a temperature drop.

133.5 bhp 123 lb torque 116mph @6640rpm 9.5psi
Shakespear RWYB 14.995 91.83mph

make sure the puller is on square, turn the engine over by hand and make sure all of the three bolts that connect to the flywheel are done up the same amount, you don't want it on crooked..

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Did you remove the washer?

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Had a job getting the flywheel of the van's engine.

I wounded it up as tight as I could, then left it for 3 days, then with some help wound it up some more until the bolt snapped in the centre of the puller. Then a gentle tap on the snapped bolt with a BFH and it popped straight off...

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Also make sure the washers are in good condition. Mine are all bent now...

pft lol hope my mini is faster than i can type

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

cheers for the help fellas

Also,

Its always worth a look on ebay for older more substancial mini flywheel pullers.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mini-Flywheel-Puller...=item2561ad2ba1

Edited by Joe C on 1st Mar, 2011.

ive got my eye on that puller...

lol thats what i thought, flashbacks!

I did mine recently and bought a puller from MiniSpares (http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=36627&title=). I haven't used others before but this one worked for me and looked very well made for the job.

The process I went through:

Read the forum for tips
Put the puller on and made sure it was on straight
Made sure the 6 clutch bolts were still done up
Locked the flywheel. People suggest a big end bearing in the start hole but I needed to get the engine apart first before I had a spare one.
Tightened the centre bolt as much as I possibly could by using a 2ft breaker bar
I heated the centre up as a lot of people suggested it
Left it for 48 hours and then tried again (nothing!)
Got really annoyed and hit the living sh*t out of the centre bolt as nothing would make it come loose
Finally got the airgun on it and it started to pull off

My tips would be:

Don't be afraid to hit the absolute crap out of the centre bolt (some people may disagree though)
Don't be afraid to heat up the centre of it
Watch yourself as some people say that it can pop off like a bullet out of a gun but lickily mine didn't come off to bad. I wore steel toe caps and tried to stand to the side.
Don't do it with the engine on the floor as the engine kept moving when trying to tighten up the centre bolt and did my back in.

It will take a lot of work but your goal is to break the seal between the flwheel and the crank shaft.

Good luck!

Edited by fasteddie84 on 2nd Mar, 2011.

Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary, now that's what'll get ya!

If the flywheel does not break free from the crank with a sharp crack and the flywheel wanting to jump at you, there is a strong chance the flywheel has welded to the crank caused by fretting

Edited by Sprocket on 2nd Mar, 2011.

I have the KAD Flywheel Puller the best 100 quid I ever spent,

When I was removing a KAD flywheel from a customers engine I was almost afraid I'd pull the nose of the crank what with the 3 uprated 12.9 m12 bolts used on the KAD flywheel and the massive center bolt the thing wound up to 420NM before cracking off

http://cgi.ebay.ie/KAD-Mini-Flywheel-Pulle...t-/300503169710

I,m just so pleased that all I have to do is undo 6 bolts and lift the flywheel off.

Mind you its heavy and I might skin a knuckle on the ring gear !.

I'll be honest and say that I think Isigonis was quite happy that the interference fit of a Morse taper was sufficient for an 850 or 998. I think he had second thoughts with the E series since it also uses the 6 bolts, but is still the same transfer gear arrangement.

Makes you really wonder whether the high output a series engines are relying more on the key washer than most would like to think.

I know your right for a Fact Colin,

I went through a spate of key washers at one stage when I came to the same conclusion you have and made the washer from Key steel and increased the size of the bolt in the end of the crank to M16 12.9 and increased the torque on said bolt to 205NM all the problems went away now I have had no crank fretting problems and just use a kick ass pullers to remove it job done.

ive got similar to the kad one but with a 10t hydraullic ram, i can see the flywheels wince when i get it out

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Me too! its the nuts!