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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Splitting short block and gearbox

DaveVader

347 Posts
Member #: 9075
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Peterborough

I started taking apart my spare 1275 today and got this far...




But now they just wont come apart. I've taken off all nuts and bolts that I can see that keep them together but I have no movement between them at all.

Any suggestions?

Edited by DaveVader on 12th Apr, 2011.


jamie@thefatgarage

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665 Posts
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Sheffield

Mine was pretty well stuck together with gasket goo. I just lifted the engine up 1/2" on a hoist and gave it some stick with a big rubber mallet. Dropped off eventually.


apbellamy

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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

Have you got the bolts behind the timing back plate out?

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


DaveVader

347 Posts
Member #: 9075
Senior Member

Peterborough

Yeah, nearly missed them.

On 10th Apr, 2011 apbellamy said:
Have you got the bolts behind the timing back plate out?


I think it may well just be stuck as Jamie said.
After having awful luck for three days running I just called it a day.


Gaball

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Gobshite that posts wank videos.

Somerset, UK

i leavered mine apart with an old flathead screwdriver working my way around the block

Gaball said:
Motorsport Engineering Student
Project Car 1293 Turbo Mini (on a student budget)

On 7th Oct, 2010 apbellamy said:
Carbon but plug?


John

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Mongo

Barnsley, South Flatcapshire

Yep just make sure you have taken all the bolts out and lever it apart.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.


Scruffy

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Seaford Rise, South Australia

Best way is a large pry-bar under the main bearing cap against the idler gear web on the gearbox. Never insert a screwdriver/bar between the gasket faces unless you want oil leaks in the future

On 5th Sep, 2011 Vegard said:
I stand corrected. You should know *wink*



John

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Mongo

Barnsley, South Flatcapshire

This is how i do it too.


On 11th Apr, 2011 Scruffy said:
Best way is a large pry-bar under the main bearing cap against the idler gear web on the gearbox. Never insert a screwdriver/bar between the gasket faces unless you want oil leaks in the future

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.


haimesyboi

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Cornwall

If it doesnt flex equally around the casing when you are levering there is likely to be a bolt, otherwise its glued and needs persuading.


DaveVader

347 Posts
Member #: 9075
Senior Member

Peterborough

Voila!





Cheers for the help guys.

Aside from the studs it's now a bare block. I was kind of upset at this point as it meant I have nothing else to do to it.
There's a 998 in the corner of my garage... :)


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

&

TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

Two things to do to it,

No 1, put the main caps back on so they don't get lost or mixed up, a block with no main caps is not far from useless.

No 2, lightly grease the bores to protect from rust in storage.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


DaveVader

347 Posts
Member #: 9075
Senior Member

Peterborough

Will go and do that in a bit, I've got the caps next to it in storage and know which order they go in but I'll stick 'em on regardless.
Cheers Tom.


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

&

TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

Bolt the caps back on tight. They may be next to it now, but in 5 years time, when its moved around the garage 4 times, you have moved house, its been in the shed, in the cellar, back in the shed, back in the garage.....you get the idea

Unless they are bolted on they will undoubtedly go missing at some stage.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


MikeRace

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#1 Basshunter Fan

Force Racing ICT Dept Manager Miglia Turbo Am frum Yokshyer tha noes!

Plus this stops the locating lugs from getting damaged.


On 12th Apr, 2011 Tom Fenton said:
Bolt the caps back on tight. They may be next to it now, but in 5 years time, when its moved around the garage 4 times, you have moved house, its been in the shed, in the cellar, back in the shed, back in the garage.....you get the idea

Unless they are bolted on they will undoubtedly go missing at some stage.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/


bennyy

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Doncaster, yorkshire

Quick q, does the timing gear have to be removed to drop the gearbox?

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 15th Mar, 2012 wil_h said:

Yes, Carl says he gets requests for rimming all the time

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble *wink*


apbellamy

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16540 Posts
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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

No.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


John

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Mongo

Barnsley, South Flatcapshire

No

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.


bennyy

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Doncaster, yorkshire

Didn't think so but saw this and made me wonder, cheers.

Off topic john, steve says he could tell it was your old box.. Boy racer! Lol

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 15th Mar, 2012 wil_h said:

Yes, Carl says he gets requests for rimming all the time

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble *wink*


John

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Mongo

Barnsley, South Flatcapshire

Pfft!

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.


akirch

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Senior Member

Austria

you have a very "comfortable" work bench... 8-)

http://www.minifreunde.at

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