Rust remedies.
Turbo Mini Forums

I guess this is as good a forum as any to ask given Mini's rust free bodywork.

Without going totally mental and cutting every last bit of rust out. What is the best way of..

A. removing paint to access bare metal.
B. treating any rust that will not be removed
C. after welding or treatment, what is best to cover it with before finish painting ?


Ive stripped my car and there are a couple of areas that need attention. And some awkward to access spots and awkward shapes to replace metal. Hence want to try cleaning and treatment as much as possible.

I have usual grinder, flap wheels, wirebrush wheel for grinder although it is quite aggressive. Have a compressor, but no tools at present that I think will be of much use.
Is one of those needle tool thingies any use ? de-scaler or something I think they call it ?

Cheers.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...ers-accessories

these things are great for removing paint quickly and without knackering the metal. Couldn't think of the name of them but you can get less abrasive ones than that that will just remove paint.

drill mounted wire wheel, from wilkos around 1.69 each and they last :) not as aggressive as the angle grinder ones but still work well enough

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Cheers..thought about the drill wire brush thing, although not sure it will fit into some areas.

This is the needle scaler thing I was referring to. Never used one before though, but looks fairly good ?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Needlegun_scaler

http://www.rapidonline.com/1/1/19432-air-n...istol-type.html

Can get some cheap ones for £40 or so ?



http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...ammers--chisels

Edited by stevieturbo on 11th Apr, 2011.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

The problem with rust is that it leaves little pits in the metal work which sanding does not remove - the disc cannot get in to those little pits unless you sand to a degree where it thins out the metal to the bottom of those pits
If you leave any of the pits, the rust will come back in no time

The options are:-
1. grind or course sand until it's all gone
2. cut out the metal and weld in a new piece
3. use a needle scaler - but you would need very small needles to get in to the pits
4. blast the area with a fine grit (not sand, as it's too course)

If it's a large area, it is better and easier to cut out and weld in a new piece, but if it's a small area and/or in an awkward place, blasting works very well

I recently bought a portable blasting kit, and use a fine grade shot blasting material, and the results are fantastic - it will even blast aluminium without damage to the metal - the kit was only £40 and came with a drum, hose and gun, but you do need a compressor for it to work
The blasting material can be used over and over again, as it doesn't seem to disintegrate much

http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=SB993

Here are some examples of what I've already done



The dark patches are caused by by dirty hands from handling it when it was covered in rust and grease

Edited by ntm1275 on 12th Apr, 2011.

You cannot beat one of these for awkward spots.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...a900e-230v-file

Best thing I've ever bought for the garage TBH

On 12th Apr, 2011 ntm1275 said:
The problem with rust is that it leaves little pits in the metal work which sanding does not remove - the disc cannot get in to those little pits unless you sand to a degree where it thins out the metal to the bottom of those pits
If you leave any of the pits, the rust will come back in no time

The options are:-
1. grind or course sand until it's all gone
2. cut out the metal and weld in a new piece
3. use a needle scaler - but you would need very small needles to get in to the pits
4. blast the area with a fine grit (not sand, as it's too course)

If it's a large area, it is better and easier to cut out and weld in a new piece, but if it's a small area and/or in an awkward place, blasting works very well

I recently bought a portable blasting kit, and use a fine grade shot blasting material, and the results are fantastic - it will even blast aluminium without damage to the metal - the kit was only £40 and came with a drum, hose and gun, but you do need a compressor for it to work
The blasting material can be used over and over again, as it doesn't seem to disintegrate much

http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=SB993

Here are some examples of what I've already done



The dark patches are caused by by dirty hands from handling it when it was covered in rust and grease

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

Soda Blasting is the 'in' thing these days

I swear by the twist knot wire wheel for the grinder. It strips paint back to bear metal in no time. Just make sure you use a face shield as those wire brushes tend to shed themselves.

Yip, I have a wire knot thing and learned myself wires tend to eject themselves into your face !!
But it really can be aggressive.

Ive ordered a portable shot blast thing and a bag of grit.

No idea how good my regulator/filter is....it's been on the compressor since I bought it about 15 years ago lol

Never could figure out which bit if any I was supposed to change or clean ?

Will give that and the drill wire brush thingy a go just. And save the gridner as a last resort

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will