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t@z

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2054 Posts
Member #: 452
Post Whore

Chester, UK

Ive searched the thread but if possible i want to know a bit more details.

today i wired up my mj, edis and coilpack but i'm getting no spark.

the only real thing i've done at the moment is swap the sensor wires around but thats a dead end.

out of the mj i have 2 lives and 2 grounds the pip and saw to the edis. the edis piccy below is wired up as it should be.

edis by lilpinkiy, on Flickr

1 - PIP
2 - nil
3 - saw
4 - nil
5 - sensor (-)
6 - sensor (+)
7 - nil
8 - (+)
9 - (-)
10 - coil a
11 - nil
12 - coil b

on some of the searches i've looked at people say that i should test the edis without the mj, how do i go about doing this? and anything else you can think of testing.

t

www.twitter.com/lilpinkiy


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

go you hae 12v going to the contre pin of the coil?

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



t@z

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2054 Posts
Member #: 452
Post Whore

Chester, UK

yup, the coil and edis are fed buy the coil wire in my loom.

www.twitter.com/lilpinkiy


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

righto,

essentially if you disconnect the jolt from the edis the engine will still run, or at least spark.


shouldnt pin 4 be connected?


http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=5741

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



jimmy

1300 Posts
Member #: 829
Post Whore

essex

have you run the engine just on the ford unit first to see if it runs and what is the air gap on the sensor ?

1293 Turbo mini


t@z

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2054 Posts
Member #: 452
Post Whore

Chester, UK

sorry to seem stupid, so to test the edis if i disconnect the pip and saw wires and just leave them connected to nothing it should spark?

the sensor has about 1-2 mm between it and the pulley

joe i was using this picture......not sure about no 7 as the wires are correctly shielded

Edited by t@z on 7th May, 2011.

www.twitter.com/lilpinkiy


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

yep disconect the pip and saw, and you should get fixed timing.

7 is just a ground from that pic, the sheilded wires for the VR and pip/ saw just need to be grounded at one end so on the ford they have done it at the edis unit.

it may be worth shutting up the sensor gap,

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



madmk1

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5417 Posts
Member #: 6181
Double hard bastard

brookwood woking

T@z I would say its the sensor gap too mate.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

On 1st Nov, 2007 Ben H said:
There is no such thing as 'insignificant weight saving', it all adds up.


t@z

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2054 Posts
Member #: 452
Post Whore

Chester, UK

thanks guys, i'll disconnect the pip and saw and look at the sensor gap and see if that helps; also got to pop to Maplins to get a new multimeter as my one doesn't test continuity....fingers crossed

if i still get no spark is it basically the edis then?

www.twitter.com/lilpinkiy


mini_mad69

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257 Posts
Member #: 7048
Senior Member

Bridgend

Try putting your multimeter across your VR sensor, you should get a reading of a few volts from it.

Turbo parts collector at the moment, almost ready.


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

also if you can get onto one of the Coil A, Coil B wires at cranking speed you should be able so see it going 12v 0v 12v etc

but essentially yes odds on its the edis unit.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



t@z

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2054 Posts
Member #: 452
Post Whore

Chester, UK

well strange, i dc'd the MJ and made a better earth as i wasn't really happy with the one yesterday and sparky.....connected the MJ and still a spark so top dog :) thanks for your replies defiantly helped me in starting where to look.

a side q, i only have one switched spade left on the fuse box that i assume this needs to go to, problem is i need that for the fuel pump as well........the only other i have is a constant live which i guess i shouldn't use for the MJ?

www.twitter.com/lilpinkiy


madmk1

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5417 Posts
Member #: 6181
Double hard bastard

brookwood woking

Mate when i first fitted my setup, I just got a smail fuse box (from halfords) and run all the MJ bits on its own.

simon.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

On 1st Nov, 2007 Ben H said:
There is no such thing as 'insignificant weight saving', it all adds up.


jimmy

1300 Posts
Member #: 829
Post Whore

essex

i would solder all the joints

1293 Turbo mini


t@z

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2054 Posts
Member #: 452
Post Whore

Chester, UK

On 7th May, 2011 jimmy said:
i would solder all the joints


all the other joins are solered, i only didn't do those ones as last time i got the + and - the wrong way round on the sensor and had to re cut them :)

www.twitter.com/lilpinkiy

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