Mini -> Metro turbo conversion help
Turbo Mini Forums

Hello guys, so I'm really really interested in turbo'ing the mini but don't really feel like I have concrete information on what I need to buy and what I need to sort out.

I found this website: http://www.turbo-mini.com/index2.html

Great source of information if you want to build your own turbo engine from the ground up, what I want to do is get a metro turbo engine and put it in (I know that I will have to re-con it anyway, but I'm making sure im going to get a decent one).

From what I understand is the Metro turbo has an ECU of some sort which raises the boost to 7psi, and without it its 4psi. What I want is a t2 turbo, with about 10psi of boost. So what would I need to buy here?

As well as this, I have a standard 998cc atm, and I would really appreciate if you could give me a form of shopping list?

Have you guys got a guide, im a bit of a noobie!

Thanks for your time in reading this.

Cheers

Craig

all on the above linc to run more boost dump ecu and upgrade wastegate actuator block old dump valve off and fit new, also could use bleed valve to control boost and a good gauge. you might want to search before posting topics. loads of info on here and the guys are full of knowledge im sure if iv missed anything or got anything wrong someone will correct me

Done now needs redoing lol

I think the only advice I would offer as a starter is the best solution often doesn;t start with buying metro turbo engines. Yes, you may need the carb and a couple of other turbo bits depending on what you are intending to have at the end, but once the engine itself is in bits to recon it it's pretty much just a 1275 A+. Turbo engines go for far more than they are worth and are often shit. Much better to get a tired old 1275 A+ and then build it up with the right bits. All the turbo bits you will need are available. You will save money in the long run and end up with a better result.

Good advice from Jamie.

It's likely that most metro turbos have been thrashed for 20 odd years and are tired and over priced.

It seems like an easy solution to buy a metro turbo engine complete, but in the end you are still going to have to know how it works. It is unlikely that the engine will come all piped up and ready to go so there is plenty of learning to do.

All the information you need is available. It is not that hard, just needs taking a step at a time.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

Also, get some insurance quotes before you start as it could be a little crippling at your age.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

My insurance was just renewed at £450, I have 2 years license and 2 years NCB, so I'm hoping it wont shoot up by thousands.

My nextdoor neighbour has a 1275 engine in need of a recon that he will probably give me for free, where would I find the pistons, tried looking on ebay but cant find anything brand new - maybe I don't know what search properly?

Im guessing the main differences would be the pistons and the head (or would I be able to run the std 1275 head? )

End of the day im not after high performance, around 80-100bhp would be more than enough

Thanks for all your help guys :)

Yeah it probably will , but just to get me started till insurance is cheaper thats all im after :)

Take it from me. I bought a 'turbo' engine for over the odds. Turns out its not a turbo and is about as fit as an asthmatic long distance runner for the job. Metty turbo's are likely to have been run into the ground before being sold, so you're best bet is to buy a standard 1275 and go from there.

As above, get a healthy 1275 block, get some 1293 pistons and get it bored out, I would reccomend the omega cast 10cc, get hold of a turbo, manfild turbo carb plenum etc etc, get some head work done and eother a fresh standard gearbox or straight cut, with 4pin diff, a decent clutch setup and your good for some decent power.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

A standard metro turbo is around 94BHP so 80 BHP probably isn't going to happen.

If you can get a 1275 for free, do it. I'll give you £20 for your it.

If you are only aiming for 80-100hp how about turboing the 998?

There is a section on the website posted above that tells you how to do it too.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Hey all, thank you for all your help and advice so far

I dont want to turbo the 998 because its not long been reconditioned with standard parts, so i can use it as a reliable back up engine if my turbo project goes wrong.

Will the standard 1275 head be ok with a t2 turbo, the engine came out of either a midget or a triumph if that helps

Thanks again guys

Craig

wrong crank

1293 Turbo mini

I thought metro turbo had same crank as the 1275

I'm no expert in this and only starting out myself. Having done a bit of research, I found that the T3 option was a lot cheaper than the T2.

With the T3, you can use the metro parts which are easily available. If you go for the T2, you need a mirage manifold for around £300 (I think). If you are concerned about costs then maybe the T3 is a better option.

I may be wrong but that was one of the deciders for me to go down the metro T3 road.

Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary, now that's what'll get ya!

Just made a rough list of parts that I think I would need to buy, if theres anything I have missed off can you please say

1275cc Engine
MPI tank
t2 turbo
metro turbo plenum
boost piping
intercooler
mirage manifolds
dump valve
cylinder head gasket set
Alloy 2 core radiator
electric fan kit
fuel line 8mm
spark plugs
coolant temp sensor
ht leads
clutch
oil


Uncertain for these parts:
mini 1275 crank
metro turbo head


What did you guys do for cooling the engine/engine bay?

Cheers
Craig

Hi fast eddie, the main reason I want to go t2 is because I dont want to cut the bulkhead out on the car, im not convinced its a good idea and getting my dad to help me out with this option is going to be a bigger nightmare than its worth.

Crank - any 1275, same for the head. The compression is achieved with bigger dish (lower CR) pistons.

Cooling, nothing apart from a decent rad. No need to cut holes everywhere. Engine bays are hot, everything is designed to work in a hot engine bay - no problem.

Thank you jamie thats great :)

Any 1275 crank from a transverse engine will do.

The reason 'wrong crank' was said above is because you said that the 1275 was from a midget which is longitudinally mounted.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

ahh, that makes sense :) so is there anything else I need to get from my list then?