Maiden voyage stats (very rich)
Turbo Mini Forums

Took the car out for its frist drive in 10yrs today, everything is new, 1380, T3, MD274, SC Box, 2 core rad, BP8ES plugs.

Warmed it up and took it for a 60 mile drive to start getting it run in, was misfiring on cylinder 3 which turned out to be a dead plug, replaced that and its driving really quite nicely.

I wanted to run in without hitting boost as I'm running a megajolt map with 26 degrees across the board so no retarding when boost comes in. This was a bit tricky as boost starts to build at around 3-3.5k and by 4k which is my run in limit i have 2-3psi of boost.

Sitting a steady revs in 3rd or 4th im getting 45-50psi oil pressure, and 80 degrees water temp.

The problem I have is that at a steady speed above 3k in 3rd or 4th my UEGO is reading 10, sitting at 30 in 3rd its better in the late 13's, but i really cant go much over 40 before i'm back to 10 on the UEGO.

Any thoughts on my air/fuel. I know I need to get it on the rollers and get it setup properly but they want 200+ miles on the clock so its run in before then, and the drive to the rollers is about an hour on a dual carriage way so sitting at 60-70 for that time running that rich isnt ideal!

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170151

What needle you have in there?

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

what is your fuel pressure set at and what CR you running?

1293 Turbo mini

This map is a megajolt version of the standard metro turbo distributor. Not great for power as it retards fully as soon as boost comes on. It will be better than trying to avoid driving on boost, or it will be a bit of insurance if you accidentally hit boost.

I used that for a while on van. It worked ok but as you say, pretty poor for power.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Just been out and checked the fuel pressure, i dont have an inline gauge but taking the carb feed straight into a gauge (no gauge outlet) i get 4 psi.

I have a BDD needle.

I dont know my CR, that probably sounds bad but when i got all the bits for the engine there was no info (cough Morspeed cough) and when i got the bits I just built it before even knowing how to measure CR, i was quite nieve then and on a steep learning curve so what i know now didnt apply then. I can provide pics of the head and dished pistons but I doubt that is enough to roughly determine a CR.

thanks for the map metroturbo, i might give that a shot depending on further replies from the info i have given.

Edited by Simon on 15th May, 2011.

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170151

if you have low CR that can make it rich with the needle out look for wear on the needle this can make it run rich

1293 Turbo mini

all so check the float needle valve is not leaking fuel back into the carb

1293 Turbo mini

This is exactly what mine does. Cruising on the motorway it will sit at 10, ease off and it's up to 13.

I'm pretty sure that it's because my part throttle lean off pipe is blocked off.

Robert has a solenoid connected to his so that he can get decent fuel economy when cruising with it open, but good off-on boost transitions with it closed.
P

In the 13's at last!.. Just

10 to 1 at cruise, jeeze that seems rich especially for a new motor, mine was similar at first 10.5/11 at cruise until i got it properly setup, just ran it in by sticking to very low boost 5psi (now I have 10 min with some preload) and ran the needle leaner as per the std metro setup simply to avoid bore washing in my new motor. Seems the std needle in some cases when wound up to give decent afr under power ends up hideously rich everywhere else.

Has always run and been set up with part lean off perm blocked its now 13.4 ish at cruise, 12 under power, but I am looking at doing Roberts trick at the mo to get it over in the 14's at cruise, wonder if it would be possible to have a boost sensing switch to close it as boost rises?

oli

On 5th Oct, 2014 Shauna said:
What that's crazy, you go commando hahaha! How heavy is your helmet ?

If you have megajolt, or similar, this could do it for you.

Yeah thanks-sounds like a good idea that, I run mj as it happens-will look into it

ta

oli

On 5th Oct, 2014 Shauna said:
What that's crazy, you go commando hahaha! How heavy is your helmet ?

the carb was fully rebuilt before it was fitted to the car. the needle isnt showing any signs of wear from what i can see.

i'm booked in at T&M in Colchester next week but its a 100mile drive of which 95% is duel carriageway, is sitting at 10 afr for the journey going to knacker the engine?

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170151

Its not ideal. Can you not wind the jet up a bit to try and lean it off?

Also I would put in some retard on the map. Just knock it back to say 21 deg on any points that are above 100kPa e.g. in boost. That will be safe enough especially when you consider a few years ago the "norm" was to lock the std dizzy at 25 degrees fixed.

a mate had a little play with the jet but its idling around 15:1 @ 800rpm and i didnt want to lean it off anymore.

could i lean it off even more but wind up the idle screw perhaps?

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170151

You'd need a leaner needle really.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

No harm in it idling as lean as it will take without cutting out, 15:1 is fine on light throttle and cruise as well, you just need to make sure it is the rich side of about 13.5:1 under any load. So long as you drive it with no/minimal boost it should be OK.

I have ordered a new BAE needle that should arrive in the next few days, a leaner needle with plenty of meat on it for profiling as well as it being new so no wearing etc.

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170151