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Home > Beginners Tech > swivel hub removal | |||||||
17 Posts Member #: 9466 Member |
4th Jun, 2011 at 10:42:25am
hi,i have tried to remove the ball pin on the lower ball joint but the retainer is seized solid,when trying to remove it the swivel hub keeps turning,will i have to remove the swivel hub so i could put the unit into a vice to remove the retainer and if so what is the proceedure for removal? dobber |
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![]() 5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
4th Jun, 2011 at 11:40:07am
I have to ask the obvious first, have you properly bent back the whole of the locktab from around the hexagon of the "retainer" - I've seen them with the locktab folded up against every available flat bit of the hexagon even though it only needs to be locked on one face.
Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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17 Posts Member #: 9466 Member |
4th Jun, 2011 at 12:00:30pm
yeah i've flattened the lock washer and it was bent around the whole circumference of the nut, i'll dig out me haynes |
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17 Posts Member #: 9466 Member |
7th Jun, 2011 at 01:29:15pm
hi,i am still unable to remove the swivel hub,the haynes manual is a bit vague so i've been trying to suss it out myself, how can i lift the hub off when the ball joint on top of it is catching the arm that bolts onto the subframe,i can't seem to move the arm up to pull the pin from it? any help would be great as i'm losing patience! |
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![]() 16540 Posts Member #: 4241 King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner Rotherham, South Yorkshire |
7th Jun, 2011 at 01:33:33pm
you need a ball joint splitter to seperate the arm from the ball joint On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it ![]() |
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![]() 5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
7th Jun, 2011 at 01:43:08pm
If you mean you have successfully split both ball joints but can't get the pin out because the arm doesn't seem to move enough to clear it, it's usually because the rebound stop (the tiny rubber block) under the top arm is old and perished and the spring is pushing the top arm lower than it should go because there is no weight on the suspension.
Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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17 Posts Member #: 9466 Member |
7th Jun, 2011 at 02:37:15pm
okay i've levered the arm and have removed the hub!the rubber block is perished,will it be tricky to fit a new block? |
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![]() 16540 Posts Member #: 4241 King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner Rotherham, South Yorkshire |
7th Jun, 2011 at 02:43:31pm
nope
On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it ![]() |
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![]() 5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
7th Jun, 2011 at 03:11:42pm
Easiest way is when you have everything re-assembled - except for putting the wheel back on - carefully put a second jack under the lower ball joint and jack the whole suspension up - not so far it lifts the car off the first jack - but far enough for the upper arm to no longer be squashing the perished bit.
Edited by Rod S on 7th Jun, 2011. Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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17 Posts Member #: 9466 Member |
7th Jun, 2011 at 06:12:34pm
great thanks guys |
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