later type servo rebuild
Turbo Mini Forums

Does anybody know to a guide?
Nothing in haynes about it, and id rather not pisshurtle into it and fuck it up.
Cheers.

If you buy the Lockheed service kit for the cylinder and/or the air/vacuum side (they are two separate kits), then the diagrams and instructions are inside.

Think they're also in my pukka Rover Mini Workshop Manual.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

Its the vacuum side of things (i hope)
Cheers, whats the best way of getting the servo apart? I was going to leave the back piece on, and tap the front anticlockwise with a small hammer.

Oh and just before i do buy the kit, ive checked the inline one way valve works, there's a fair amount of fuel vapour inside the servo too. The brakes are hard when you start the car, then after a bit of revving it gets better, then when driving the pedal touches the floor. When the pedal is ok the brakes do work as they should, as it hasnt long all been replaced, the master cylinder isnt very old either but i dont think that's the problem.

Right, trying to get the 2 halves of servo back together now, i have no vice, nor can i make a special tool for the job. So i have the 2 halves slightly twisted so it holds together on the floor, bolted it back on the car and im trying to knock it back round using an old preverto arm on one of the threads, and a nut on the other to protect it, and using that as a lever and hitting it with a hammer, same as i did to undo it. Brute force with a lumphammer isnt working, i have greased the diaphragm too. Help :/

Chain grip molegrips are a saviour!

Im not sure if something isnt quite right, but i can notice the servo doing something, but before the servo shat itself, i used to have most of the pedals travel during braking, but now i only have 2" of travel and the brakes are harder than they were before, the brakes work great, cant hear any air leaks from the servo, and pulling the vac hose off it sucks air back into the servo, lock up when you stab on the brake, but it just doesnt feel the same, Im not sure if braided hoses make it feel like that but ive had them a while now.
Is this how it should feel or is something amiss?
Few photos of the rebuild process.








(that was taken before i closed the servo properly.)

Edited by Carlzilla on 22nd Jul, 2011.

Looking good.

You might want to get a garage just check all is ok to be sure.

However, a couple of questions.

When you release the brake pedal from being fully pushed down, how long does it take to return ? If it's ages then the White seal with the nylon backing washer and gert big spring washer could be binding on the black plastic diaphragm piston as new white seals are renowned for being too tight.

Did you put some silicon sealant over the mating faces between the master cylinder body and vacuum chamber ? This area, if not sealing correctly can cause the vacuum to break as it let's air in.

Other than that, it's down to pushrod adjustment where the pedal linkage joins the plunger. Go look at someone else's and copy where their adjusting nut is positioned.

Richard.

Edited by turbominivanman on 27th Jul, 2011.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

Thanks rich, i think i sorted it a few days ago now, whatever it was 'bedded in' and the pedal went down a lot further, then i adjusted the nut until the brakelights wernt permanently on, and that pretty much solved it. i didnt use silicone, but used the grease supplied around every mating surface, and around the part of the plastic that passes through that nylon washer and seal.
Brake pedal pretty much returns instantly now, just need to get used to the braking again as it feels like im sat in another car now i have a 'fully' working clutch (could possibly be still leaking on the slave face :/) and the brakes sorted.