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| Home > General Chat > Turbo is Finished - First Drive, Running In? | |||||||
 1434 Posts Member #: 8466 Post Whore Mansfield |
18th Aug, 2011 at 02:53:13pm
My 1293 Turbo project is DONE! Well its up and running and ive been out for my first drive. All signs are good, running 6psi with conservative ignition map. Just can't help myself with the right foot though, I know I should be taking it steady But Class C 3rd Place Avon 2011 14.18 @101mph |
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 9502 Posts Member #: 1023 Post Whore Doncaster, South Yorkshire |
18th Aug, 2011 at 03:08:02pm
i had to bin the thermostat with my dry deck
Yes i moved to the darkside |
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 12307 Posts Member #: 565 Carlos Fandango Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex |
18th Aug, 2011 at 03:09:35pm
just drive it,
On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged... Joe, do you have a photo of your tool? http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1 https://joe1977.imgbb.com/ |
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 736 Posts Member #: 1865 Post Whore Norwich, Norfolk |
18th Aug, 2011 at 05:25:11pm
drive it like you stole it just with the boost turned down. give it a good thrashing varing the load and get everything bedded in nicely, after about 50miles which should be enough to confirm nothing is broken whack the boost up and go for it.
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388 Posts Member #: 442 Senior Member Manchester |
18th Aug, 2011 at 10:36:01pm
Only thing id say to all of this is only start to drive it hard once its fully warmed up. Keep the boost like it is for a while then go get it tuned.
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 6549 Posts Member #: 1149 #1 Basshunter Fan Force Racing ICT Dept Manager Miglia Turbo Am frum Yokshyer tha noes! |
19th Aug, 2011 at 08:28:45am
And what ever you do dont race your mate in his metro turbo down any bypasses lol 1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.
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 2233 Posts Member #: 9037 Post Whore Doncaster, yorkshire |
11th Jun, 2012 at 01:51:47pm
To bring this back up, I m at this stage now, to those that do a hard run in, I'm interested to know at what points do you do oil changes, and what point you make the change from cheapo mineral oil to decent semi synthetic stuff.
Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs
On 15th Mar, 2012 wil_h said:
Yes, Carl says he gets requests for rimming all the time On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble  |
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736 Posts Member #: 1865 Post Whore Norwich, Norfolk |
11th Jun, 2012 at 03:09:02pm
I used tesco own 20w/50 oil for 100 miles and then straight onto the millers. Doesnt mean its right but thats what I did. |
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9502 Posts Member #: 1023 Post Whore Doncaster, South Yorkshire |
11th Jun, 2012 at 03:24:41pm
I used halfrauds classic to knock cam in and a drag event at pod and 200 miles on road then straight onto the millers Yes i moved to the darkside |
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 118 Posts Member #: 9965 Advanced Member Sydney, Australia! |
11th Jun, 2012 at 03:31:04pm
stick with the mineral oil, synthetic stuff is not needed in our old engines... its all due to the engine and gearbox (and turbo) sharing the same oil...
“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson |
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2233 Posts Member #: 9037 Post Whore Doncaster, yorkshire |
11th Jun, 2012 at 03:36:57pm
Thanks but no thanks.
On 11th Jun, 2012 mattsmadmini said:
stick with the mineral oil, synthetic stuff is not needed in our old engines... its all due tothe engine and gearbox (and turbo) sharing the same oil... I am going to do 50miles of acceleration & deceleration, then maybe an oil change onto more cheapo, then 50miles driving as normal on low boost, then oil change to Miller's and fit the gt20 actuator and have some fun, kind of inbetweena hard run in and soft run in . Edited by bennyy on 11th Jun, 2012. Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs
On 15th Mar, 2012 wil_h said:
Yes, Carl says he gets requests for rimming all the time On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble |
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118 Posts Member #: 9965 Advanced Member Sydney, Australia! |
11th Jun, 2012 at 04:00:19pm
Regular oil changes are the best insurance for your engines survival. With a fresh engine, drive it like u stole it, vary load and speed, change oil after 300-500km, then every 1500km (1000miles)
“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson |
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9502 Posts Member #: 1023 Post Whore Doncaster, South Yorkshire |
11th Jun, 2012 at 06:07:11pm
There is a much better oil tech today than 50 years ago... I agree we all drive an out dated car but there is no need to use out dated oil Yes i moved to the darkside |
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2233 Posts Member #: 9037 Post Whore Doncaster, yorkshire |
11th Jun, 2012 at 09:34:01pm
I think I am going to give it an oil change now after bedding the cam in, 50miles of acceleration and deceleration, 50miles of normal driving but on 8-10psi, then a final oil change onto Miller's ctv, thenfit my gt20 actuator and 15-16psi. Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs
On 15th Mar, 2012 wil_h said:
Yes, Carl says he gets requests for rimming all the time On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble |
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 4890 Posts Member #: 1775 Post Whore Chester |
11th Jun, 2012 at 09:55:58pm
CTV has given me the best performance when it gets hot. I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
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 11046 Posts Member #: 965 Post Whore Preston On The Brook |
11th Jun, 2012 at 10:14:35pm
On 11th Jun, 2012 mattsmadmini said:
stick with the mineral oil, synthetic stuff is not needed in our old engines... its all due to the engine and gearbox (and turbo) sharing the same oil... Really? whats wrong with Semi synthetic that was specifically formulated for these high power engines? also, what's wrong with fully synthetic? Why does the engine and gearbox not need the extra protection a semi or full synthetic would give? Just curious thats all :) On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be... So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'... On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........ |
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11046 Posts Member #: 965 Post Whore Preston On The Brook |
11th Jun, 2012 at 10:22:37pm
On 11th Jun, 2012 mattsmadmini said:
Regular oil changes are the best insurance for your engines survival. With a fresh engine, drive it like u stole it, vary load and speed, change oil after 300-500km, then every 1500km (1000miles) Not really sure on what your summer temp is there, here in oz standard oil is 20W/50 or 30W/60 as it gets warm enough to thin out at 30+degree's celcius Im more than happy to jump up and down about the importance of a mineral based oil, doubt anyone will listen though :) Synthetic oil comes from the same place mineral oil does, its just the mere fact that it has had so much processing that it is called 'synthetic' It does not mean that it is man made, it still came out of the ground from the same crude that is used to make the 'mineral' oil, has the same lubricating properties as the minieral oils, but does not degrade so easily at high temperatures. Are you suggesting that there is no place for synthetic in a high performance A series engine and transmission. I'm sure i'm not the only one that would like to hear what you have to say about this, rather than just dismissing it as though you know something that no one else does. On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be... So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'... On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........ |
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118 Posts Member #: 9965 Advanced Member Sydney, Australia! |
12th Jun, 2012 at 01:25:10am
On 11th Jun, 2012 Brett said:
There is a much better oil tech today than 50 years ago... I agree we all drive an out dated car but there is no need to use out dated oil I absolutely agree, but to be fair, our engines will still be a 60 year old designed engine, sure you could dry deck it, somehow set up the gearbox to run on its own independent oil, rebuild it using new parts etc, the fact still remains its an A or A+ BMC based engine from 1951. Mineral oils are not outdated by any means, is it no surprise that perhaps some of the newest engines are using mineral based oil and could be called "slightly synthetic" to please everyone? Diesel Oil. Yes the diesel engine is eons old, but over the past 10years they have been revolutionised in a way that no other type of engine has seen before. Yet still, even today, it uses an oil with (higher than most) ZDDP content, but as more and more environmental groups get on its case the more and more they have to lower the ZDDP content. At the end of the day, a 60yr old engine still needs more protection than a modern one, people have even gone so far as to putting diesel oil, and even tractor oil in what could only be described as an agricultural engine. Yes i love the A-series engine, yes i love how easy they are to modify, but still, it is a 60yr old engine even after a full rebuild... Yes parts and components have improved immensely over the years, no denying that, pistons and cranks, rods and heads are all new and lightweight and will give more power than ever before, but our engines still have their limits. The 5 port head is not the best for all out power, but with the right mods it can give great power yes you can put a 7 or 8 port head on your engine, i still know for a fact that the 5 port could still make more bananas in if both in NA form... Turbo's are still a mystery to me... which is why i came here :) to learn how to effectively use a turbo on my old engine. On 11th Jun, 2012 Sprocket said:
Synthetic oil comes from the same place mineral oil does, its just the mere fact that it has had so much processing that it is called 'synthetic' It does not mean that it is man made, it still came out of the ground from the same crude that is used to make the 'mineral' oil, has the same lubricating properties as the minieral oils, but does not degrade so easily at high temperatures. Are you suggesting that there is no place for synthetic in a high performance A series engine and transmission. I'm sure i'm not the only one that would like to hear what you have to say about this, rather than just dismissing it as though you know something that no one else does. Not denying the fact, synthetic oil is essentially the equivalent of avgas or premium unleaded, it is the extra processing that goes into it etc, but it is also all of the conditioners that go into the mix... The flat faced followers/lifters in our old design engines (and some early V8s too) need the ZDDP additive in the oil to prevent wear. Synthetics (and many modern mineral oils too) have precious little or none as it poisons cat converters. Synthetics work great in modern engines, but they all have roller cam followers these days or curved face lever followers. There is a further argument that having the gears in the sump damages synthetics. This same argument is used in the motorcycle world- most bikes with a combined engine/gearbox oil system specify use of mineral oils. The choice of the correct oil for older cars comes down to various factors such as: Original Viscosity Specified Condition of engine (leaks, sludge) How often the engine is run How the vehicle is to be used Oil consumption Current oil used Graham Russell; he is essentially the teacher of Keith Calver, and best mates with Dave Vizzard, he lives up the road from me, and has basically redesigned quiet a few things in the ol' A-Series engines, his NA 998 pulled out 68hp on the "rolling road" more than most 1275's and larger... anywho, he will only put a mineral, zinc heavy, based oil in his engines, just so happens that the oil of choice is only $14/4L from Kmart and is called KMX, if he doesnt have any of that he will use Brad Penn's Green Oil based purely on its ZDDP content, and the fact that it was designed and made for flat tappet engines. I use SG rated oil (KMX 20W/50 and Castrol Edge Sport 25W/50). SG and lower (SE, SF) oils still have ZDDP, it's the SH and later where they lowered or eliminated it. “A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson |
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118 Posts Member #: 9965 Advanced Member Sydney, Australia! |
12th Jun, 2012 at 01:25:42am
I suppose at the end of the day the trouble with oils is Joe Public can't tell what's in them or how well they work. There aren't recognised standards that they must be tested to to give you a choice of the best one for your application.
Edited by mattsmadmini on 12th Jun, 2012. “A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson |
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118 Posts Member #: 9965 Advanced Member Sydney, Australia! |
12th Jun, 2012 at 01:34:22am
A quote from Graham Russell
"GR" said:
Hi All, Thought i would jump in and clear things up. Back when i had the Mini 1000 class up and running i was approached by coleen from respect oils in QLD to try her racing 50 in the minis. When she come down here i had a motor on the dyno using K-Mart Oil. She asked me what oil i was using to run the motors in and what i was using to do testing with. I replied K-Mart's own brand KMX. She was horrified! She asked me why i was using this oil, i told her because i had found it to be very good, held it's viscosity very good at high temperatures. She then gave me some of her racing 50 oil to try in the mini 1000's. We used the same bearings, camshafts and followers for two and a half years and they were not changed. The only thing changed were the rings every 12months. After discussing the K-Mart Oil she had it tested for me by the people that blend her oils. She took a K-Mart sample and two other 20w50 oils at the same time in unmarked bottles. The industrial chemists comments were "where did you get this oil" referring to the K-mart oil. She explained to him that this was a commercially available oil from a supermarket. His comment to that was you cannot produce the additive package that goes into this oil (the K-Mart Oil) as an everyday oil for that price. He went on to explain that the oil was performance orientated, suitable for turbocharged engines and light diesels. She explained to him that this is also written on the labelling. She then took the oil and tried it in her test taxis. The oil was tested at 2500km, 5000km, 10,000km and i think at 15,000km as well. The Oil came up as an excellent oil every time. Her comment to me was, i hope you don't tell too many people about this oil! Coleen has now sold the business and it is now called PM Lubricants in QLD. Their racing 50 oil that they produce is second to none as a mineral based oil but very expensive (about $15L). Coleen then checked into who was producing the oil at the time and how they could produce the quality for that price. The answer she got back was when you order 300,000L of Oil at a time you can have what you like in any coloured package! I think it was Mobil that originally blended the oil for them but it has now gone through at least two oil companies since. I think Shell first and now Caltex. I still continue to use this oil in my road cars and on the dyno for running in and testing eg.BDA Engines running at 9500rpm. We just had a Holden 355 stroker engine on the dyno producing 523HP and 472ft/lb of torque on KMart Oil as well running at temperatures up to 215*F and encounter no problems with the oil at all. Yes there are probably better oils on the open market but for quality and price i'll always use the K-Mart Oil in road engines. After checking with 4 oil companies about labelling they all explained to me that if an oil is rated for turbocharged engines it has to be a good quality oil as they would be liable if the oil failed in operation and could be had up for false advertising. This is what i have found and i am not qualified to analyse oil as probably nobody on here is. All the information i got came from a lab who are qualified to test oils. P.S When Coleen owned the business nearly all the trucking companies in QLD, buses and taxis where running on respect oil. Also, with Synthetic oils today they are mainly designed for overhead camshaft engines where the camshaft runs in a bath of oil all the time. When used in dinosaur engines like our minis if will not stick to the camshaft lobes, followers and rockers like the mineral based oils do as its thrown off because it's lacking a key additive that makes the oil stick to components. This is why Castrol originally designed the GP50 oil for larry perkins because they were having rocker gear failure and the oil was not sticking to the roller rockers or the camshaft, this is now known as Castrol Edge 25w50 but i do not know if it is still the same oil (same ingredients) but we still use this in a lot of racing minis with a tube of molybond 2.5 (60g) Graham Russell :mrgreen: “A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson |
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118 Posts Member #: 9965 Advanced Member Sydney, Australia! |
12th Jun, 2012 at 02:24:07am
Im not an oilz expert, far from it, and i realise that the ol' oil debate is probably just as deep here as it is on any other mini forum, im just giving out information that i have gathered over a long period of time. You might not all agree with it, in the same way that i dont agree with other things, summing it up though... your car needs oil, without it, it dies.
“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson |
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