painting a mini at home?
Turbo Mini Forums

hi

i was trying to work out how much it will cost me to paint my mini inside and out with cellulose paint.

iv read the FAQ by benross and its a great guide.

i just want to know how much paint and primer etc i will need.

so far iv put on my list.....

5 litres of thinners
5 litres of high build primer
2.5 litres of paint (inside, outside, engine bay, inside boot)
500ml of paint (roof, arches)

should i get a tin of cleaning thinners for cleaning out the gun? or will i have enough with the paint thinners?
do i need a differnt type of primer for the fibreglass bits?
is g-3 the best polish to use once its gone off?


sorry for all the questions iv never painted anything apart from using rattle cans!


thanks
josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

Looks about right to me. You'll need some etch primer too for the bare metal areas, and some panel wipe and tags rags. No need for any more thinners.

If you budget for about £250-£300 thats about what it costs.

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www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

iv got a couple of cans of etch already.

how much panel wipe? 1 litre?
i'll get a box of tack cloths aswell.

what about t-cut and the polishing compounds? how much of that should i get?

thanks
for the reply matty!!

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME WITH CELULOSE, unless you are after an authentic classic build.

Celulose takes a lot of work to put on, sand back and polish, not to mention looking after it afterwards to stop it oxidising and going dull. It goes soft in the heat if the sun too.

I regretted it and now having to strip it right back, but this time 2K from meta to top coat!!

Yeah a litre of panel wipe is fine.

I agree with Sprocket, if you can paint in 2k you'd be much better off. Its alot more user friendly (in the application aspect) than cellulose.

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www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I think you need to research the hazards of using 2pack paints before you do anything further.

Sprocket you going epoxy onto bare metal?

Horses for courses.

2k is more durable etc etc etc but cellulose is possible at home whereas 2K is best not.

I also think you need to get rather more than 5 litres of thinners for that much paint, bearing in mind there will be a fair bit of cleaning up to do after each session.
I but 25 litre drums of gun cleaner and use it for all sorts of cleaning jobs.

Its the best way to go. I figure if they can dunk boats into salt water for 15 years with it, its going to be okay for my car.

Its not too bad considering price wise considering what good protection it gives. 40 pounds a litre with very good coverage.. I think Jotun do one especially for under body coverage. Both isocyanate free so good stuff.

This may help.

mask
cellulose paint (Id advise celly if you value your health and dont have an air fed mask)
Good quality thinners
High build primer
okay thinners (still reasonably priced but not cheap tat) (Primer)
Cheap tat thinners for cleaning
rubbing compound
masking tape
Masking paper roll
sheet plastic
1500 grit wet and dry
800 grit wet and dry
400 grit wet and try

panel wipe
tack rags
cloths (rags)
microfiber cloths

mixing cups
mixing sticks
strainers

ok thanks sam

as im painting at home in my garage, im going to stick with cellulose.

when you say rubbing compound, is that G3? how much of this do i need?
also do i need a different type of primer for the fibreglass bits?

thanks
josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

I have sprayed cellulose and will never go there again you have to apply too many coats to allow you to cut it back to a dive in deep full colour shine.

2k goes on heavy and gives great coverage from the first coat, continued polishing will see you removing the paint down to the primer in time.

The only way is clear over base

The colour for 2010-2012

And this was it for 2008-2010

2k will not look half as good after 1 year and you will be touching up chips, cracks and crazing with cellulose until you realise your mistake and turn to clear over base.


This is how much space I had to work in.

Isocyanate release occurs as the two pack paint begins to cure and is odorless. So paint get clear leave the extractors on.

You will need to go all the way down to 2200 wet and dry to get the best with cellulose in my opinion. Also to get the best finish out of cellulose you have to leave it for atleast two weeks before you start to cut it back due t the fact its still moving and will only dull if you cut it back too early. I left mine for a month before cutting it back and have to admit it was the hardest and best shine I ever got until I used clear over base

It is possible to get a coach builders finish in your own back yard dont let anyone tell you otherwise good luck.

Edited by Mr Joshua on 12th Sep, 2011.

Own the day

Don`t know who told you that?

Isocyanate is present in the hardener, thus when mixing spraying and untill well flashed off you are exposed.

youll need some paint filters to its surprising how much craps in the paint

Done now needs redoing lol

Well I have never sprayed a car before and have just finished my car in 2k. I did it at home and I am very happy with the results. there is no way I could have got that finish with celly.

I am lucky that I have a big garage and live in an isolated spot, but it was worth the extra health and safety precautions to get the finish.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

my car was done in 2k in my mates shed, got a good finish il dig out a picture.

I am another who will never use Celly again, however you MUST have an air fed mask.

For the fibreglass parts I personally use a decent acid etch primer.

i have had very good results from 2k spraying at home. a lot of work has to go into prep and finishing though to get the paint finish as good as it can be. as tom said, you should use an air fed mask - 2k is leathal, though i didnt, im not sure i would do the same again.stuff like this can damage your lungs years later.

the thing putting me off of 2k is the toxic of it.
my dad has used cellulose before, so he knows kind of what to expect. im not even near painting yet just getting info on to whats best for me to do.

thanks for all the help lads

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

The point at which 2K pait is most harmfull is when you are spraying. This is the time when there is the highest concentration of Isocyanates in the atmosphere. When you are mixing the paint you can get away with a respirator with the highest grade organic filter, but when you are applying the paint, use the air fed hood since the respirator will be overwhelmed by the huge concentrations when spraying, but it also will get clogged rapidly with the paint itself, which is still unreacted and wet, which is the real reason you need the air fed!! Once finnished applying the paint and it is in the reaction stage the respirator should suffice.

Ventilate the work space with a ducted fan which can easily be hired from any hire shop, and make sure you keep the compressor feeding your mask, OUT of the space you are painting in, AND away from where you are discharging the vented air. Obvious? No?

make sure the family are out shopping and your neighbours are on holiday, or live in the middle of no where.

The paint itself does not contain the isocyanate, the isocyanate IS the hardener component, so keep that in mind. Once you start mixing, isocyanates are flashing off.

fot what it is worth, I think you would need more than 2.5 litres of celly if your going to build up enough paint to get a decent finish, particulalry painting inside and out.

i'd go for 2k. The health risks are there but all I'd say is keith just uses a respirator with correct filters and takes plenty of breaks; i'm not saying this is right, just how we do it