Setting up gear selector after relocating
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi all,
I'm currently giving the metro abit of a tart up and its had a 2" engine lift as part of said tart up, So the fixed selector rod catches the subframe. This i knew would happen and as im dropping the lot for a tart up and to notch the subframe i was tempted to relocate the selector inside the car.
Its always been a fair distance away from me when im sat in the car with the harness on anyway.

Ive always planned to do this anyway it just might happen abit sooner than previously planned. Now ive done abit of reading on this and it seems fairly simple...... (famous last words)

However..... from what ive read the gearbox end gets a UJ about 2" from the selector rod collar that connects to the gearbox selector and this is pivoted up into the cabin and then another UJ to streighten the selector rod out inside. This was souding fairly simple until i read somewhere they are a nightmare to set up?
If the selector is just 2 UJ's and a bolted in selector housing how can it be adjusted and how can it be hard to align?


Thanks

If you can, just fit one uj at the gear box then angle the whole selector rod. It help to reduce any play in the selector rod. You'll need to have a theaded section in the selector rod with a locknut to adjust the length and orientation of the rod.

To set it up select first gear on the box then put the shfiter where 1st would be then
adjust the rod on the threaded section so that the rod is under slight tension and is fully twisted anti clockwise. Nip the locknut up then try the other gears. You may need to slightly adust the rod left and right but the length should then be set.

Edited by matty on 8th Dec, 2011.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

.

Edited by matty on 8th Dec, 2011.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

RIGHTTT! Thanks
So i suppose to irradicate the need for adjustment i could cut one spare selector rod about 6" from the gearbox box end and use this rod to the gearbox coupled with a UJ and the other rod connect straight from the UJ and extension piece to the selector in-car. So when they are put together its about 7 to 8" longer including the UJ.
So as long as i have it straight i can then put it in gear (1st) and make a mount from that position?



Cheers

EDIT: i guess this wouldnt sort the tension side of it but would mean i could get the tops all set level so its in the right orientation?

Why is something so easy in theory troubling me so much haha. :$

Edited by MINIMON on 8th Dec, 2011.

Also just thinking about it. now it doesent run with a top steady bar from selector to gearbox does anyone have issues with it jumping out of gear on stock engine mounts? as i cant run uprated engine mounts as easily as i could if it was a mini.....

You will need to either solid mount, or sort out the steady bar, and allow the remote selector housing to move on rubber mounts with the engine.

Unfortunatly it doesent have a steady bar as stock on the top or bottom. its passengers side mounted on a Y shaped mount (front to back) and a rear mount on the drivers side and a front mount off near the starter motor.

Im currently doing a fair amount of welding (modifications not rust surprisingly ) so i might make a top engine steady then. it cant hurt to keep it nice and firm (uww err)

With regards mounting i could use 4/6 of them rubber bobbins used to hold centre exit backboxes on. Iirc they are M8x1.25 just like the selector housing.... I'll find out I think 4 will be enough 6 might be abit strong.

Thanks Matty and Tom

Edited by MINIMON on 8th Dec, 2011.

By steady bar I mean the gear selector steady bar, not engine as per Mini.

Ahh sorry, well thats the same as a mini as im sure your aware... So if i was to fit that on a solid mounted selector housing surely thats all that will hold the engine from trying to move and could snap the internal selector box section?

Or did you mean rubber mount the selector and fit the brace? allowing both to move accordingly? As i can see that working... hmm might look abit scruffy though.

The engine mounts (big round ones) on the offside have offset bolts so a welded in bolt would have to be made into an alloy mount if i was to solid mount the engine... effort just to get abit extra ground clearance haha. Might need it thought, the enignes had a 2" lift and the gearbox/sump is still about an inch off the floor.... ECK!

Edited by MINIMON on 8th Dec, 2011.

You may get away with trying to fix the shifter in the right place, but i'd still recommend having at least 5mm of adjustment. You also want to keep the uj as close as you can to the box.

I got away with rubber mounted engine, solid stop steady without it jumping out of gear. But as soon as ther was a little bit of play it would jump out of gear.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Why dont you rig up a boot or gaiter to cover up all the gubbins if you rubber mount the selector?
im sure you could whip up a simple FG surround and paint it car body coloured?

Edited by Carlzilla on 8th Dec, 2011.

Point taken on the adjustment Matty. Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. ...

I think its going to be very much of a function over form situation that I've brought upon myself ay Tom.
Also Carl I think a gear gaiter in the floor end and a automatic style cover over the selector and it'll be fine.
Its having a stripped interior with a couple of bucket seats and a cage anyway so the two rods dissapearing through the floor could look in-keeping. I can only but see!

Thanks can't wait to get the turbo lump done!