Lining up engine mounts... Captive Nut Engine Mounts AVOID!
Turbo Mini Forums

How do gents

I'm trying to get my engine bolted into the subframe and I can't get the mounts lined up with the holes in the subframe...

Any tips? I've been trying on my own and got one side sorted and fastened in but the other side was too high and I couldnt get it any lower... I tried smacking the mount to make it sit down in the subframe more but it won't budge.

I'm using genuine mounts with captive nuts on.

Ta

Edited by tomkidd on 7th Jan, 2012.

I generally do rad side first, put the nuts in loosely, and for the drivers side, get a bar in above the bit that touches the subframe and hit it with a hammer until you can get something through the holes to line them up, like a thinner screwdriver, get one hole done first, then do the other one.

I do the passenger one, then sit the driverside on a trolly jack and dropout one of the long bolts that goes front to back, adjust the height till youve got the mount bolts in then but the long one back in.

Those with riveted nuts? I threw them away after a very short time... They made the whole front end vibrate...

It helps to losen everything, inc. the two bolts holding the big bracket on the passenger side. And DON'T fasten any bolts, untill all are lines up.

Btw: neighbours may give you strange looks when they spot you jumping up and down on top of the engine

[X] nail here for new monitor

loosen the 2 long bolts that go through the mount and speedo housing i find that tends to give a good amount of movement

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Clutch side first, then use a G clamp round the subframe and bottom rad bracket...works a treat.

EDIT: Obviously can't be done with side mount rad in place though!

Edited by matty on 3rd Jan, 2012.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Mine just drop in fine,

I do the clutch side, then just drop it down with a jack job done.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

I think the problem generally lies with the repro mounts, the first time they are fitted. Genuine ones fits straight in.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I had the same problem. The engine and its mounts appeared to be too wide to sink into the sub so that the bolts could line up. Struggled a lot. Later read on some forum that I should have greased the sub frame and the face of the engine mounts to ease the problem. Never tried it, might work.

Edited by dazibee on 3rd Jan, 2012.

Ive used cooper grease in the past, it does help.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Lube always works for me

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

lower your engine unit with the hoist until you line the holes on one side, doesn't matter which side, the side that lines up first, get one bolt in, go to the other side and lower the engine lining up the holes as near as possible, then get a pointed piece of steel and go through the holes and pull them into line, I have a old screw driver sharped to a point for this and other jobs like it, keep adjusting the load on the hoist to help line up the holes, and rock the engine back and forward helps as well, go back to other side use the screw driver again for the last bolt, this always works for me.. Alan

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Genuine mount allow the engine to drop straight in, no problem. The after market mounts are subtly different such that unless you have the genuine and after market ones side by side, you will never notice the difference.

Have to agree I fired some I got from my local more factors and they were under that much stress they tore apart over night while say in the garage. The next set were genuine and dropped right in no fuss. Not all mounts are equal

Own the day

I've heard from a source that the 'genuine' ones are now the same thickness as the repro ones.



In the end loosening the 2 bolts that go through the aluminium plate on the speedo housing made life a lot easier but still it wasn't that easy

Edited by Nic on 6th Jan, 2012.

Cheers folks, going to try some of the techniques above

Just a bit of an update on this chaps. Avoid the captive/pressed in nut engine mounts as they are utter shite.

The whole point of me using them was to try and make it quick for removing/fitting them and they ended up taking ages to get to fit.

They scratched my newly painted subframe and in the end I had to strap down one side of the engine and put some serious pressure on the strap to get them to fit.

When the engine next comes out they are going to be cut up into a thousand pieces and given back to the stall that sold me them at the next mini show

I had captive nut mounts on mine, didn't have a problem with them, dunno where they were from though.

I'm on solids they were a bitch. I had to modify them in the end to get them to fit. As above though for fitting standards!

Solid mounts are a pig. We had to mod ours too.

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A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

I lost patience with this type and ended up removing the captive nut.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Just drill bigger holes in the subframe and use good washers then ?

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

My engine having been in and out a few times recently..

Get one side in but loose as mentioned above. Then get a spike or two through the subframe and into the mount on the other side while the mount is still 10-20mm off landing on the subframe, then lower and the guides should mean it lands lined up. More difficult if you have the captive nut types, but easier than nothing.

If it still doesn't line up, remove the bolts from the other (first) side and fit some really thin ones temporarily so the engine has more movement, you can always get something through the holes later to line it up for proper sized bolts.

p.s. it is a two man job and requires that you don't piss around like a nancy. You won't break it.

Hope that made sense..

lossen the bottom rad bracket, it helps a great deal. but dont forget to do it all back up again. i spent hours with this and its the only way to got the buggers to fit.

Oh i bought captive nut ones :-S where can i get genuine ones bmh?