clutch change (aka spanner sizing thread :D )
Turbo Mini Forums

is it possible to change a verto clutch with the brake servo in place on a standard roundnose with all inner wings etc?

Edited by wez on 5th Feb, 2012.

one day boost will be mine!

Yes, I have done it several times.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

i imagine its a pain in the arse though?

one day boost will be mine!

Changing a clutch in place is an arse. But an 11mm flexi head ratchet spanner would be an invaluable tool for removing the bellhousing bolts. I wish i had access to one when i changed one last in car. And undo the o/s mount and all steadies and jack the clutch side up as much as you dare.

i know the bolt around the back of the wok is a pig to get out, most people dont put it back in either. i just looked under the bonnet and there just doesnt seem much room at all under the servo, just wanted to make sure i wasnt pissing in the wind before i started. as the new daily ive been to see tonight and am picking up next week has a slipping clutch.

one day boost will be mine!

I would check all the hydraulics too mate, happened to me at avon, clutch slippage, thought it was the clutch plate worn, took it all apart and it was fine but glazed over, replaced loads of stuff, put it all together and the clutch was still crap, Ended up changing the master & slave in the end. Worked out that when depressed the clutch was slightly dragging, which glazed the plate over, hence causing slippage. Just something to consider :) I only had the easiest 5 bolts to get to back in, as the bottom section is held in via the weight of the engine pushing against the bellhousing. Not advised on a heavy clutch though.

Edited by Carlzilla on 3rd Feb, 2012.

There are no 11mm headed bolts on a mini engine....

I'm thinking I might change the Hose for a new one first and bleed it up. I remember reading the other day about the hose collapsing inside and not letting the fluid return properly.

one day boost will be mine!

I don't remember it being that much of a pain. I normally remove all the nuts holding on the servo sto that it can be pushed out of the way, but leave the pipes connected.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

changing the clutch is not too bad in situe - changing the primary gear and removing the transfer case on the other hand is a right bitch!!


With mine i have braided hoses going from the servo to the brake bias valve thingymabob, so i usually just unbolt the servo from the servo bracket and move it out the way.

and like others have said, removing the wok bolts can be a pain too. If you jack up the engine this will give you some more room

Plenty of people substitute 1/2 for 13mm as and when. And 11mm is pretty much identical to 7/16. So it fits perfectly. I have never ever had a problem with it. The reason i say 11mm, is because nobody sells flexi ratchet spanners that i know to in AF.

Edited by Carlzilla on 4th Feb, 2012.

Granted i only use my 13mm ratchet spanner on bolts i have already cracked off using a 1/2" spanner for that reason.
But if you look up the 7/16 to mm it comes out at 11.1125
So technically an 11mm spanner should not fit. But it fits perfectly, probably due to tolerances in toolmaking (if there are any)

Edited by Carlzilla on 4th Feb, 2012.

agreed... use the right too for the job... AF tools are easily available

Find me some AF flexi head ratchet spanners?
I'm not being arsy, but for undoing certain things they make life 10000% times easier, rather than taking a spanner off and back on 1/8 turn at a time.

I use metric on imperial all the time. Its fine for anything not tght, but will round heads after a while. Little bt OT now though.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

Wrong thing to say, but I also use metric spanners and sockets, and I have rounded one nut before, but everything else is fine.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

i have a set of snap on flank drive imperial offset ratchet spanners, and set of snap on flank drive metric, and the 1/2 will not fit on a 13mm. vice cersa
tolerance in cheap tools causes damage, iv never had a problem with snap on tools. get the right kit and you can do the job twice as fast.
also, i use braided hoses on the servo wez so that just plonks onto the os wheel.

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Cheers, I'd looked for a while for something like this but gave up.

if you do the change, slot the bottom holes in the wok :) so you dont have to undoo the 11mm () bolts fully in future

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

Edited by apbellamy on 5th Feb, 2012.

If you 13mm doesn't fit on a 1/2" there is something wrong with you 13m, IMO.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

You can get the metrics individually from halfrauds, about £13. 11mm is a perfect fit.

I've got a set of Stanley spanners which have a funny open end on which drives off 3 of the flats buy lets you pull the spanner backwards around the head of the nut without taking it off. Not a ratchet spanner but works to the same effect once the nut is cracked as you can't get a good purchase with them, have to use the ring end first.

one day boost will be mine!