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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Weight loss?

Chalkie

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1479 Posts
Member #: 9764
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Northamptonshire.

Hello guys, I know you lot love your Weight loss big style :) I'm looking at chopping some weight out of my mini since its in for Resto at the moment,

How would I drill the front subframe?

and any other ways to drop enough weight ? :) Don't wanna lose so much I go deaf from the noise but a far few KG

Thanks Guys

Stephen

P/.s search didn't tell me how to drill the subframe or what id need.

There's no need to drive fast. We're not in a hurry, we're not being paid. There is no reward for the risk. So why would I drive fast? - Niki Lauda


paul wiginton
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5537 Posts
Member #: 784
9 times Avon Park Class C winner

Milton Keynes

Lots in search, you need to know what ya looking for though

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=376953

I seriously doubt it!


blister

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819 Posts
Member #: 2590
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Croydon

So far i have done.

Removed roof and fitted a fibreglass replacement
removed heater and all extras
removed rear seat overhang and door bins
removed all soundeading and that tar stuff glued on the floor
drilled holes in the seat brackets on cross member
drilled holes in parcel shelf (replaced with alloy)
removed door window winders
Cut inner centrale door skin out
Drilled holes in door hinges
Drilled holes in hand brake mounts
fitted fixed perspex windows all round
Carbon mirrors
Fibreglass boot floor
Alloy tank
Carbon bootlid
Removed inner wings
Drilled holes in rear subframe
Dsn Subframe mounts
Removed Soundeadning from rear door pocket area
Removed upper dash rail
Drilled holes in steering rack mount
removed all bulkhead tags
alloy hand brake quadrants
super fin rear drums
alloy 4 pot calipers
drilled and grooved front discs
removed radio and all speakers
remove all the layers and layers of paint underseal from lower bulkhead
drilled pedal box (bought from fellow turbomini forum user)


Things i will do
Drill holes in door surround
Holes in steering column
holes in rear bulkhead/ or remove
holes in crossmember
holes in inner gutter
remove execess from lower dash rail
fit carbon front and bonnet
fit pins instead of boot hinges and bonnet hinges
remove excess tags from underneath
shave excess casting from engine block and inlet manifold
fit lightened flywheel
remove rear side windows rear door card lips
remove interior light bracket
fit lighter alternatives to standard wheel nuts
fit alloy hubs
remove excess exposed threads


oh and to drill the subframe buy this i am still on my first set!

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=silverlin...Wno7mPDw&zoom=1

Edited by blister on 19th Feb, 2012.


george91

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1083 Posts
Member #: 8932
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Exeter

Seeing as you are restoring it finding more ways to save weight should be easy, start with the shell, from front to back and remove any non structural parts your not going to need like extra brackets, and stuff.

The sound deadening on the floor and seat bench can go, if you have a cage the rear bins and seat over hand can go.

There is a decent amount to be lost before it gets to replacing parts, but if you have the money you can save a load in the suspension/brakes etc.

Good luck, have fun.


paul wiginton
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5537 Posts
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9 times Avon Park Class C winner

Milton Keynes




On 19th Feb, 2012 george91 said:


Good luck, have fun.


But for fuck sake, be safe about it

I seriously doubt it!


Pottsy

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459 Posts
Member #: 843
Senior Member

Stoke-on-Trent. Duck.

I'd've thought your choice in wheels and seats will be a big factor in weight saving? Magnesium alloys and carbon fibre buckets (or Kirkley) seats must be worth several kilograms. Whereas the link Paul used showed how difficult it is to even get 1.7kg out of your subframe.

And there's always "slimming world" if you happen to be someone that likes their pies? *wink*


Chalkie

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1479 Posts
Member #: 9764
Post Whore

Northamptonshire.




On 19th Feb, 2012 george91 said:
Seeing as you are restoring it finding more ways to save weight should be easy, start with the shell, from front to back and remove any non structural parts your not going to need like extra brackets, and stuff.

The sound deadening on the floor and seat bench can go, if you have a cage the rear bins and seat over hand can go.

There is a decent amount to be lost before it gets to replacing parts, but if you have the money you can save a load in the suspension/brakes etc.

Good luck, have fun.


I have a 76 shell ;] so no gay sound proofing on the floors for me *happy* just some stick black stuff behide the rear cards and on the roof.

There's no need to drive fast. We're not in a hurry, we're not being paid. There is no reward for the risk. So why would I drive fast? - Niki Lauda


Chalkie

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1479 Posts
Member #: 9764
Post Whore

Northamptonshire.




On 18th Feb, 2012 paul wiginton said:
Lots in search, you need to know what ya looking for though

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=376953


Paul you went so far with all the weight loss on your car! its nuts but quick! :)

There's no need to drive fast. We're not in a hurry, we're not being paid. There is no reward for the risk. So why would I drive fast? - Niki Lauda


paul wiginton
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5537 Posts
Member #: 784
9 times Avon Park Class C winner

Milton Keynes

Theres lots you can do if youre handy at fabrication

Aluminium bootfloor



Aluminium rear valance



Aluminium rocker cover




Timing chain cover

I seriously doubt it!


Chalkie

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1479 Posts
Member #: 9764
Post Whore

Northamptonshire.




On 18th Feb, 2012 blister said:
So far i have done.

Removed roof and fitted a fibreglass replacement
removed heater and all extras
removed rear seat overhang and door bins
removed all soundeading and that tar stuff glued on the floor
drilled holes in the seat brackets on cross member
drilled holes in parcel shelf (replaced with alloy)
removed door window winders
Cut inner centrale door skin out
Drilled holes in door hinges
Drilled holes in hand brake mounts
fitted fixed perspex windows all round
Carbon mirrors
Fibreglass boot floor
Alloy tank
Carbon bootlid
Removed inner wings
Drilled holes in rear subframe
Dsn Subframe mounts
Removed Soundeadning from rear door pocket area
Removed upper dash rail
Drilled holes in steering rack mount
removed all bulkhead tags
alloy hand brake quadrants
super fin rear drums
alloy 4 pot calipers
drilled and grooved front discs
removed radio and all speakers
remove all the layers and layers of paint underseal from lower bulkhead
drilled pedal box (bought from fellow turbomini forum user)


Things i will do
Drill holes in door surround
Holes in steering column
holes in rear bulkhead/ or remove
holes in crossmember
holes in inner gutter
remove execess from lower dash rail
fit carbon front and bonnet
fit pins instead of boot hinges and bonnet hinges
remove excess tags from underneath
shave excess casting from engine block and inlet manifold
fit lightened flywheel
remove rear side windows rear door card lips
remove interior light bracket
fit lighter alternatives to standard wheel nuts
fit alloy hubs
remove excess exposed threads


*indifferent* why not use this then?
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=204...&type=1&theater


and engine wise I'll lighten Con rods, remove all castings marks, lightened duplex, lightened follows and so on :)

I wanna lose weight as its a increase in "power" to weight ratio I don't want to be lugging weight around thats not needed Eg Strearo :) Maybe young but I have an Ipod haha :) thanks guys!

There's no need to drive fast. We're not in a hurry, we're not being paid. There is no reward for the risk. So why would I drive fast? - Niki Lauda


paul wiginton
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5537 Posts
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9 times Avon Park Class C winner

Milton Keynes

Im impressed with that CF shell but its wet lay up by the looks so probably twice as heavy as it needs to be

I seriously doubt it!


Chalkie

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1479 Posts
Member #: 9764
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Northamptonshire.




On 19th Feb, 2012 paul wiginton said:
Im impressed with that CF shell but its wet lay up by the looks so probably twice as heavy as it needs to be


He was saying that its stronger though guess its a bonus


Is it strange that my Steel wheels way less than my Alloy Minilites?

There's no need to drive fast. We're not in a hurry, we're not being paid. There is no reward for the risk. So why would I drive fast? - Niki Lauda


paul wiginton
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5537 Posts
Member #: 784
9 times Avon Park Class C winner

Milton Keynes

Stronger!? Bullshit, its just 10 times cheaper

I seriously doubt it!


Chalkie

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1479 Posts
Member #: 9764
Post Whore

Northamptonshire.

Oh right fair enough, Carbon weezels may have to check their webstie :)

There's no need to drive fast. We're not in a hurry, we're not being paid. There is no reward for the risk. So why would I drive fast? - Niki Lauda


Sam

1351 Posts
Member #: 1686
Post Whore

Oxford

Carbon Weezel is wet lay also. Arc do some vac infused stuff. Not quite pre preg, but for our uses its as light as its going to get.

On 19th Feb, 2011 Miniwilliams said:
OMG Robert that's a big one


Chalkie

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1479 Posts
Member #: 9764
Post Whore

Northamptonshire.

Oh right okay fair enough well Ill shave 1 or 2 kg of the front subby and maybe the rear one, lose a big of weight here and there so it be all good :)

There's no need to drive fast. We're not in a hurry, we're not being paid. There is no reward for the risk. So why would I drive fast? - Niki Lauda


Chalkie

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1479 Posts
Member #: 9764
Post Whore

Northamptonshire.

Can you lighten
Brake and clutch pedals?
Clutch Leaver arm?
Steering Coloum outer (I have 2 of the things)
thanks

There's no need to drive fast. We're not in a hurry, we're not being paid. There is no reward for the risk. So why would I drive fast? - Niki Lauda


hazpalmer

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1235 Posts
Member #: 9038
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Windsor

On 19th Feb, 2012 RidingLow said:
Can you lighten
Brake and clutch pedals?
thanks


yes just drill holes in them.


Chalkie

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1479 Posts
Member #: 9764
Post Whore

Northamptonshire.

Sweet, Lose a few grams off them then *indifferent* I have the bug now!

There's no need to drive fast. We're not in a hurry, we're not being paid. There is no reward for the risk. So why would I drive fast? - Niki Lauda


mw3

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569 Posts
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Derby




On 19th Feb, 2012 paul wiginton said:
Im impressed with that CF shell but its wet lay up by the looks so probably twice as heavy as it needs to be


Im sure theres some foolery going on with that.

Matt W




On 14th Mar, 2012 mw3 said:
Got a nice big delivery from Carl at Force Racing today.


Chalkie

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1479 Posts
Member #: 9764
Post Whore

Northamptonshire.

Anyone got any good links to drilling the rear subframe? :) thank you

There's no need to drive fast. We're not in a hurry, we're not being paid. There is no reward for the risk. So why would I drive fast? - Niki Lauda


george91

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1083 Posts
Member #: 8932
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Exeter

If your serious about loosing weight, a rear beam and coil overs is the way to go.


apbellamy

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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

rear subframes weigh fook all. It's the radius arms that heavy.

On 4th Apr, 2014 oli79 said:
I miss wr london *crying*

On 30th May, 2014 lee.pb said:
when pulling it in the garage.

On 11th Sep, 2014 Shauna said:
I don't really fancy blowing a hoe!


theoneeyedlizard

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The Boom Boom speaker Police!

Essex

There's plenty of other areas to save weight before you drill holes in your brake pedal.

In the 13's at last!.. Just


paul wiginton
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9 times Avon Park Class C winner

Milton Keynes

Personally I dont like drilled brake pedals, clutch isnt so bad though

I seriously doubt it!

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