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Rickus

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168 Posts
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Cirencester, glos

Hi All,
i have finally got the engine in the mini and it starts ok ish but the carb is no way near set up. the screw on the rear of the carb what does that do??? air/fuel? and does any body know a rough start up setting for this?

My main problem is getting the car to idle and when you drive it the boost kicks in and then the car dies and then cuts back in when u back of the throttle. i have no way of checking the incoming pressure of the fuel.

i have 8mm running through the car for feed and return with a regulator with an spi tank. my regulator has malpassi on it. does any one also know a rough setting for this??

can any body help me with these issues please??

many thanks Rick


scott the joiner

461 Posts
Member #: 9229
Senior Member

newcastle upon tyne

You need a fuel pressure gauge to set the fuel pressure 3.5psi-5psi going to the carb from the reg & you really need an air fuel gauge to set the mixture or I have used a CO machine at a mates mot station in the past with out these things not sure how you would ever know what your settings are hope this is some form of help


Rickus

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Cirencester, glos

Yes thank you scott im trying to get hold of a pressure gauge to use. i need to get a rough set up as iv gotta drive somewhere to get it set up :(


scott the joiner

461 Posts
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newcastle upon tyne

Fuel pressure gauge is cheap enough think about 20pound & iam sure the haynes manual gives a guide on mixture settings how to adjust to the sound of the engine (something along them lines) but as I found out a good wideband is a sound investment especially if your upping boost ect


matty

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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

The screw at the back is the mixture, from memory turn the screw fully in then back it off 2.5 turns. As for fuel pressure you'll need to use a gauge to set that. Ive used my boost gauge plumbed into the fuel line in past just to get idle right.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Rickus

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Cirencester, glos

ok cheers lads , did it not damage the boost gauge when u tried that?

do you know anything about setting up the carb needle and jet>?


matty

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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

I have read that it might damaged the gauge, but I have never experienced any problems with mine. If in doubt it would be best to use another suitable gauge. The first time I used mine it was a last resort to get me home so I wasn't bothered either way. *oh well*

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Rickus

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168 Posts
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Cirencester, glos

ok thanks mate, would the engine still run if the ignition timing was out by one tooth on the worm drive for distributor??


Mr Joshua

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Luton Bedfordshire

Basic setting the top of the jet should be level with the bridge off the carb. The bridge is the flat part of the carb throat the jet protrudes through.

Own the day


Rickus

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Cirencester, glos

Do I still need to use balest resistor when using metro turbo electronic ignition?

Cheers


matty

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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

Nope should be a constant 12v.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Rickus

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168 Posts
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Cirencester, glos

Cheers Matty. I set my fuel pressure today and it still dies when it boosts I just don't know whats going on. When it has no load on the engine stationary it revs clean but dies after. Under load it hits boost and feels like its got kangaroo petrol in it and dies and picks up and then dies completely. The plugs are coverd in black suit and I have ran a 12v supply to the coil straight from the battery and still no better.

Any ideas?


dig-mini

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478 Posts
Member #: 9269
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Rotherham

Try replacing the fuel pressure regulator to eliminate that.

Have you checked that there is not a blockage in the fuel line which would cause fuel starvation. I had this on mine where it pulled all the gasket sealer from fitting a new sender in the tank. All the exes sealant got stuck in the end of the pickup pipe in the tank.

Its a process of elimination.

Edited by dig-mini on 26th Feb, 2012.

Craig

my mini van http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=448248


Rickus

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168 Posts
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Cirencester, glos

It's a brand new regulator, as for fuel pipes I have took these off before and after the regulator and check flow.

Thanks for your input :)


Turbo Phil

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My sister is so fit I won't show anyone her picture

Lake District

Have you blocked the float chamber venting pipe ?

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bennyy

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Doncaster, yorkshire

get an aem air/fuel gauge see whats going on, the best thing you will buy.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 15th Mar, 2012 wil_h said:

Yes, Carl says he gets requests for rimming all the time

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble *wink*


Rickus

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Cirencester, glos

I will have to save up :(


dig-mini

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Rotherham


I have to agree its a must

On 26th Feb, 2012 bennyy said:
get an aem air/fuel gauge see whats going on, the best thing you will buy.

Craig

my mini van http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=448248


Craigie-B

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Wootton Bassett

Just added another 150 to my shopping list :p

Hope you get it sorted buddy!

On 10th Mar, 2012 theoneeyedlizard said:

Hypothetically speaking, where would you stick your nozzle?


On 22nd Jun, 2012 apbellamy said:
my wife doesn't know what.head is never mind compression ratio.


stevieturbo

3594 Posts
Member #: 655
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Northern Ireland

So what is the fuel pressure doing when the problem occurs ? You dont need to spend money to carry out basic checks.

And black plugs can either mean too much fuel, or crap spark.

And there is no possibility of fuel damaging a mechanical boost gauge.

Although you can also buy cheap pressure gauges from any pneumatics place for around £5 each.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


Rickus

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168 Posts
Member #: 9709
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Cirencester, glos

Would a sticky actuator cause my problems? Just browsing the net and found similar symptoms on a different turbo car

Cheers Rick


Rickus

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168 Posts
Member #: 9709
Advanced Member

Cirencester, glos

Just been to look at all my plumbing to the turbo and carb this morn before work to make sure its all right and I think I may know what's happening I could be wrong. I have fitted the bleed valves T piece inline to the actuator from the cold side of the turbo with no bleed valve on so it looks like that was venting and not allowing the actuator to open. Would this mean its running full boost?? I didn't get chance to try it but if it was over boost this could cause the effects I'm getting right?

Any input would be great cheers Rick


bennyy

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2233 Posts
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Doncaster, yorkshire

If you have tee'd off from the pipe but left the third leg open to atmosphere you should see a fair bit of boost. Have you got a boost gauge?

EDIT: do you mean an actual plastic t piece or the bleed valve its self? Post up a picture of your set up

Edited by bennyy on 27th Feb, 2012.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 15th Mar, 2012 wil_h said:

Yes, Carl says he gets requests for rimming all the time

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble *wink*


Rickus

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168 Posts
Member #: 9709
Advanced Member

Cirencester, glos

Yeah I have got a boost gauge but not connected. If the 3rd leg of the T is open it would be running max boost as the actuator wouldn't open right? Would this cause it to die on boost under load as there is too much boost for my set up?


bennyy

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Doncaster, yorkshire

Are you talking about an actual t piece or a bleed valve first?

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 15th Mar, 2012 wil_h said:

Yes, Carl says he gets requests for rimming all the time

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble *wink*

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