loosing sync
Turbo Mini Forums

You don't actually need the paid for (full) version, the loggers work fine in the "lite" version.

Well, they do for me anyway :)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

I'd forgotten about Megatunix!

Yeah use Megatunix, I prefer it quite a bit over Tunerstudio, and it's free as well!

Joe, I actually meant the "Lite" version of TunerStudio still has a working tooth and composite logger.

Although I generally prefer MegaTunix, I think the TunerStudio tooth logger is probably a bit clearer than the MegaTunix one and it certainly works OK on my "Lite" (free) version.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Oh right, I didnt realize it was on the lite version

Sorry Ignore me!

new sensor brett?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

ive been out for about 5 hours today, not just driving though i took it up to my dads scare him and my brother,
ive been putting the tooth logger to good use its perfect for sat on the drive but its out on the road where it has problems i can capture to a file but then i have 10k lines of info to read through and cant find the missfires

megatunix? will have a look at that,
played with the sensor gap again but its making no difference,
i have noticed a slight bend in the damper pully the bit the belt sits in so im going to tidy that up now im home

new sensor- i have a collection of used ones and have tryed a couple of them but will buy a new one anyway because im running out of ideas now

over boosting is pathetic it stays bellow 10psi untill about 5k then it goes well over 20psi where it hits spark cut

out of curiosity im going to reverse the polarity on the sensor, i checked and double checked and im 100% sure its right but maybe it needs to be the wrong way around

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

On 25th Mar, 2012 Brett said:
out of curiosity im going to reverse the polarity on the sensor, i checked and double checked and im 100% sure its right but maybe it needs to be the wrong way around

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

if you dont have a scope theres always Winscope.

ive used a pc based scope before ill have a look

Rod-

Edited by Brett on 25th Mar, 2012.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Ideally the polarity should be correct and capture set to rising edge.

If the polarity is reversed, setting capture to falling edge compensates (but the timing is a tooth out).

Best to get both right, but for a quick test, try swapping capture to falling edge.

DON'T alter the spark output, just the capture.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

i found this http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/pickups.htm

timing a tooth out now that rings a bell,

just going to stick a few thread i find usefull here -
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.ph...olarity#p313845
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.ph...olarity#p310578

Edited by Brett on 25th Mar, 2012.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Yep, that's the bit of the manual.......

I tried to find it and link it for you but failed miserably even though I've read it many times.... :)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

i reversed the wiring on the vr this morning it gave 2 missing teeth on the tooth logger, swapped the capture to falling edge and it went away ( basically reversed everything)
so i put it back, 1000% certain its wired up the right way now
i did however notice it picks up the missing tooth and another 'missing tooth' immediately after that above 4k it must be some feedback or noise from somewhere but its not causing as much sync loss and misfires it used to

my vr sensor wire is the first gen loom from diyautotune with the single core shielded cable using the sheilding as the common (or ground) that should have been first priority to change tbh but it wont be an easy job :(

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

I agree your test proves the polarity was/is correct.

If you are seeing an occassional "ghost" tooth it could be noise but if it's allways immediately after the real missing tooth, noise is less likely the reason.

Noise is either random or more usually, associated with spark events which would be around 10-30 degrees BTDC (and 190-220 BTDC) whereas the real missing tooth is at 90 BTDC so your "ghost" is at 80 BTDC which doesn't match a spark event.... (hope that all made sense...)

Have you turned the noise filter on in the software ???

It's not something I favour doing - I prefer hardware to work properly without resorting to software "fixes" - but you can set it to effectively filter out anything just after the real missing tooth. Also, the way the system responds to altering those settings helps in diagnosis.

Using a proper shielded cable with a twisted pair inside the screen will help (provided the screen is connected at the MS2 end only) but it shouldn't be essential to fix your problem.

One other thing I would suggest, depending on whether you bought the MS2 assembled, as a kit, or as a partial kit and used your own parts, is to see what value of C31 is actually installed and what spec dialectric it is (if it is marked for dialectric). To cut a long story short there have been a number of values specified in the past because it's value is a compromise for engines with a large number of teeth to count (like 62) and engines with a small number (like 4). Obviously 36 is somewhere in the middle. The current prefered value seems to be 0.001uF (marking 103) and dialectric (if marked) should be X7R (which is much more temperature stable) - but higher values have got used in the past that don't work well with 36 teeth wheels.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

just thought i would update this as i have just linked to it thinking i already had

the sync loss/error was due to the alternator belt resonating and slapping the crank sensor bracket
ground out some clearance and it went away

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett