Moving front bump stop location
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi, nothing too dramatic but was wondering if it was possible to cut the bump stop mounts off the turrets, and re-welding them on just a little bit further up, so you get more travel on the front suspension but still retain proper bump stops.

The thing I wasn't sure about is if the travel would become too much and the CV joints would start to bind or anything like that?

I'm actually planning on using hydrolastic bump stops which mount on the top arms (so the opposite way round to normal) as they are bigger and softer, as I think Vizard recommended it for rally use. Hence my question about getting a bit more travel!

Thanks,
TC

www.topcatcustom.co.uk

there bolted on? just un bolt ( i admit its fiddly) and re-drill
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...id=35869&title=

Edited by Brett on 13th Mar, 2012.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

i know it isnt the best bet with things like this but i just hack sawed a bit off the top of the bump stop itself

i got the angle grinder on mine and took off all but 10mm or so,

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

We have totally removed the stops and cut out the mounting on the subframe. However this is a race car and runs St if springs. You some stops on a road car or rally car, IMO.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

Can you repeat that in English Ben?

lol

Craig

my mini van http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=448248

How does re-drilling the position make the travel any longer? I will probably end up cutting them down (and maybe drilling them to soften them up) but wondered about relocating the actual mounts maybe 1/2" higher up the turret, providing it's still possible to get the rubber cones in behind them!

Basically this is to get more suspension travel whilst retaining the bump and droop stops- and not letting any part of the suspension or drive shafts bind.

www.topcatcustom.co.uk

Edited by Brett on 14th Mar, 2012.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Ha ha, very funny. It is the wifes bloody tablet that put St in place of 'stiff'.

On 13th Mar, 2012 Carlzilla said:
Can you repeat that in English Ben?

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

I think that the only sensible solution is shorter bumpstops, or bumpstops on the damper.

Physically altering the subframe I don't think will work.

I don'th think that any of this should be needed on a road car though.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Brett- you must be thinking of something else, this shows what I am proposing, the blue line is the original bump stop mount, and I am suggesting cut it out, and move it up to where the red line is, giving more travel. I'm not sure how drilling any holes would do the same thing?


Will I'm planning on rallying this mini, and the only real downside on my last one was lack of suspension travel on the really rough stuff, and I figured this would be an easy job to do if it would work.

www.topcatcustom.co.uk

Two words - driveshaft angle! Especially if you are contemplating rallying!

On 5th Sep, 2011 Vegard said:
I stand corrected. You should know

I can't see a problem with doing what you're suggesting. You're basically just increasing the travel before it hits the stop but retauning a lower ride height.

I can't see binding being an issue, but it would be easy enough to jack the arm up without the springs in place to check the drives shaft turns freely on full lock fully jacked up.
(beyond bump stop position to be sure)

Edited by matty on 14th Mar, 2012.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Not sure that this is relavent. I mistakenly thought that he was wanting to move the bump stop to enable the car to be lowered. This is not the case, it's just to allow more movement, which you will get with the springs rather than rubber doughnuts.

So driveshaft angle will be notionally the same, unless under extreem bump. And unless you are running Hardy-spicers driveshaft angle should not be a big issue.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Why would you need longer travel than the standard setup give?

My bump stops had a thick metal washer kind of thing underneath them, I unscrewed them & removed it. So I still had the full bumpstop, but it was lower.

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM

yep sorry ive read it as your cutting the bump stops off the turrets to move them didnt realise you mean cut the turrets to raise the bump stops
if your using pot joints on the diff output i wouldnt worry about the drive shaft angles, i would worry about the ball joint angles though they get quite close to binding once you go past the standard bump stop

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Lol no worries! Thanks for the input- I should have added that is NOT my picture, just a google theft!

I'm running rubber cones, and I did contemplate driveshaft angle being an issue, however I assumes that steering on full lock will be way more of an angle than the suspension will travel.

Brett I hadn't thought about ball joint angle though, could be an issue...

I'm building it strong enough (including fabricated top mounts) to take coil overs if I decide to go down that route, but am going to use hilo's with minispares rally type cones at the moment.

Vegard I'd like more travel as it is one of the few things the mini has against it when trying to compete with other cars!

www.topcatcustom.co.uk