custom downpipes?
Turbo Mini Forums

I am in the process of doing my downpipe this weekend, and I'm unsure of the best way of going about it, it will be in 2.25", I'm doing it in 2 parts, doing the downpipe while my engine is out, fitting it all up then doing the rest of the system.

I was going to use a tight 90 bend then a sleeve connector straight after, but I always hated the t3 connector there, it was tight and a pain in the arse, so I thought about welding the whole thing from exhaust flange, down and under the subframe, but that would mean guessing the height at where it bends under the subframe, I hope you are following?

So for those that have experience in doing it, what's the best way of doing it?


EDIT: just realised I've still got my t3 downpipe, so if I bolted that onto the bracket on the gearbox I know the height at which it needs to bend under the subframe, I think that's the best way to go.

Edited by bennyy on 20th Apr, 2012.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

All the ones I have made use a slip joint just below the subframe lip. I clamp the joint using a 'Mikalore' (sp?) clamp (they don't deform the tube which means it's easy to take apart and re-assemble). they use a 10mm head to tighten, and I use a 3/8 ratchet, which worlks well.

The advantage, as far as I see it, with how I have done it is you can eaisly knock off the down pipe from the elbow and remove the turbo. a long pipe would make removal and fitting more difficult.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

We made a single pipe on the van. If you unbolted it from the turbo and the middle section it would just about wiggle out of the engine bay or drop out of the way for fixing oil leaks...

That's what I was thinking will, will definately be using a sleeve and mikalor clamp, just wasn't sure of the best place to put it. I think that is the best way to go.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

It is a tricky one really. More joints equals more places it could blow from, and if the joint ends up in an awkward place you will be kicking yourself when your hands are in bits trying to get access to repair it.

That's why I was thinking of welding it all the way down to the flexi just after the gearbox mount, just unbolting it from the turbo if it needs removing, my t3 downpipe I had to jack the car up to remove the downpipe, I can't see me needing to remove the downpipe Often though.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

That's why I was thinking of welding it all the way down to the flexi just after the gearbox mount, just unbolting it from the turbo if it needs removing, my t3 downpipe I had to jack the car up to remove the downpipe, I can't see me needing to remove the downpipe Often though.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

I built mine in one peice at first and at the first oportunity i had made it 2peice purely for ease of removal but it helps me tuck the exhaust up tighter in the tunnel mine clamps just after the tight spot between the subframe and the pot joint, it has to be unbolted from underneth but can be done with the car on the ground

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

I'm unsure how mines going to go, I know Simon (madmk1) just had a tight 90 then a straight basically how the t3 would run, I may well do this, I'm not sure if it needed nodding or if it went straight on.




Or craigs (dig-mini)






Thinking about it I think a clamp near the pot joint would be best, it looks a pain bolting the flange to the turbo in situ.

Edited by bennyy on 20th Apr, 2012.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

Mine is welded all the way to the ball joint. No leaks, but it's a cunt to get out.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

I think I'm going to use a sleeve connector somewhere around the pot joint area.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

Mine has a slipjoint right after the first 90, easy to reach and make removal of the turbo a piece of piss.
I orginaly did it as one piece and quickly realised a two-piece one would be way easier to live with.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

Mine is one piece and it was a mistake.

My old exhaust had a connector by the subframe joint which was great as I could take the head off with the manifold.

Does anyone know of a slip joint supplier?

Lots of everything here

http://www.jetex.co.uk/website/custom_part...ld&dia=2.0+inch

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

Ok been and sorted it out, its going to have a sleeve joint where the pot joint is, means I can take the turbo off with manifold attached, but should be easy enough to get to from the understand, its getting done tomorrow

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

Here's mine. I've been at this on and off for the last couple of weeks. Slip joint with a Mikalor clamp now installed where the gap is

Attachments:

136.72kb

Edited by Sprocket on 20th Apr, 2012.

i will use these on my turbo build, if they dont work i shall replace them. just thought they looked easy to take apart (jubilee clip style)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-5-V-BAND-CLAMP...#ht_1548wt_1163

P.S if anyone wants some, i can get them from china for peanuts!!!! but would need a bulk buy of at least 20.

I am just using mikalor clamps as I know they work well, It will be done tomorrow hopefully do pics incoming

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

as nice as the V bands are, the 2.25" ones cost nearly £75 each either from the UK or the US. I have looked into the manufacture of them, but for the cost, you cannot beat the slip joint. Ready swaged slip joint in 2.25" with Mikalor clamp costs less than £15

Nice work Colin. Great engine colour, only the fastest engines are grey!

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

hi everyone

i will be doing my downpipe these coming weeks, since my engine is out of the car. like most of the pics on this thread, how do you guys know where to run the pipes so it all fits nicly once its done? im scared that after its all done it wont fit between the subframe and engine or touch somewhere else:(

any tips?

cheers

Just run it nice and close to the pot joint and diff casing bolts, I had to tickle the subframe with the grinder for 2.25".

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble