Engine Spec! What power/torque ?
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi Guys, Iam about to start the engine build for my Classic Mini Clubman race car.
Its N/A I hope you can forgive me!:$ No Turbos, ECU'S Etc

This is what I have bought so far!

From the top to bottom....
45 Weber Dcoe on a 6'' Manifold sock filters
1.5 Roller Tip Rocker Rockers
Full race head stage 5 In 37mm Exh 31mm

A+ Block 73.5mm offset board (1380)
Omega Die Cast Racing Pistons Set 73.5mm Offset Bowl
Set of A+ Lightened and Stress Relieved Con Rods complete with Brand New ARP Big End Bolts
MED Engineering Crankshaft- Wedged, X-Drilled, Ni Tempered and Reground ARP Bolts
MED Ultralight Steel Flywheel and Backplate. (Pre Verto)
Paddle c/plate and Gray Cover
****Camshaft...... Iam thinking of a SW310SP ******* (Anyone used this or know of better?)
Lightened vernier twin chain set
Race Aldon Red Distributor (electronic not points)
1:1 Drop gears
MED Engineering Semi Helical Crown Wheel and Pinion 3.9 Ratio
Quiff LSD
ST Cut Gear box

What do you think of the spec... any sugestions before I start building?
Compression ratio will be 11.5 or 11 to 1 on high octane fuel
What power/torque can i expect?

Cheers, Alex

If you have all the bits already why don't you build it and let us know?

120, maybe bit more I should think.

Instead of the quiff LSD you could use a mullet LSD. Apparently this gives less up top, but far more bottom end.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Hahahaha

On 5th Oct, 2014 Shauna said:
What that's crazy, you go commando hahaha! How heavy is your helmet ?

Yes i moved to the darkside

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120+ I reckon, where was the head from? Its not far off my friends spec and he made 131 @ wheels

Avon 2010 class c 3rd
Avon 2011 class c 2nd 13.8 @ 98mph

His is a cracking motor with that spec mate, with 11.5 to 1 and med head and a 300 on a dizzy.

Avon 2010 class c 3rd
Avon 2011 class c 2nd 13.8 @ 98mph

Not all heads are created equal. One mans race head is anothers just getting started.

Personally i would sell your distributor on and buy a decent mappable setup.

[quote=Sam,9th May, 2012]Not all heads are created equal. One mans race head is anothers just getting started.

Personally i would sell your distributor on and buy a decent mappable setup.

[/quote
No ECU/mappable setups allowed in classic racing!

Mine ran just aswel on a dizzy as it does on management, picks up better lower down now but not really an issue if your racing

Avon 2010 class c 3rd
Avon 2011 class c 2nd 13.8 @ 98mph

You can do all of that, including fitting an electronic dizzy, but not fit mapped ignition. some rules are bonkers.

I mean you're not using a classic cam profile?

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

[quote=wil_h,9th May, 2012]You can do all of that, including fitting an electronic dizzy, but not fit mapped ignition. some rules are bonkers.

I mean you're not using a classic cam profile?
[quote=Alex Gibson,9th May, 2012]

Scottish classic racing regs are very open. I suppose its to make sure there are enough people!
Cars up to 1980
Block (A or A+) , head and G/box casing std. No 16v, injections,turbos, super chargers, ecu's
Block + gearbox internals free, fueling free (no inj), Cooling free, brakes free (No ABS)
Bodywork must look std Some G/f (No carbon) Yokohama tyres

We only have 5 series (Bmw minis, Mod saloons, FF, Legens,Classic saloon & classic sports cars)

Edited by Alex Gibson on 9th May, 2012.

This is what Ac Dodds said:-
Should be good for around the 135 to 145 hp & 112 to 115lbft mark Depending on how well screwed together it is.

This is what Nik Swift said:-

Spec look fine to start with. I would highly recommend our SW23 cam and not the 310 spec.
This will give a much more flexible power band starting from 3000/4000 RPM up to 7500/8000 RPM. The 310 wont come on until after 5000!
On a Swiftune built 1380 race engine we would regularly see 138/140 BHP @7500 and 110 FT/lbs torque @ 6000
I say:- Happy day's :)

Edited by Alex Gibson on 11th May, 2012.

VP8C cam if you can get one..

For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism.

Hi, I have just received a note from the machine shop that are doing the machine work on my new 1380 race engine.

They say that the rods show signs of over heating (blue steel) from when the pistons where fitted to the rods and that the rods could break off just below the piston at high revs!
(The pistons were fitted to the con rods before I bought them)

Have you experienced this? They have got me worried, I don't want an expensive engine to go bang for an inherited problem that has been potentially identified at this stage.

Any thoughts?

Thanks, Alex

To get my gudgeon pins on the rods and in the pistons we had to warm it up with a welding torch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvS3K3HYpvQ

thats with cooper s rods which were diff to mine, but we still had to do the same thing to fit to std turbo conrods.

Just thinking maybe thats why?

My conrods however wernt blue? Just the pins were

On rollers which are correctley callibrated, 104 HP

That's your lot i am afraid, when talking to john sleath in mexborough south Yorkshire he has had several. Miglias on his rollers the best on made 98 HP.

On of my engines made on the same rollers 186.3 HP and a massive! 190 ft pounds of torque, @ only 16 pounds of boost. And no strain and inflexability like a highly strung N/A MOTOR with super bump a dump race came. Etc.

I would strongley consider going the Turbo route, as you nearly all the main parts,

Hope this helps

I think you need to read this thread a little closer Steve.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

Yes you're. Right wil, no turbos............................. sadley!