OK then what would you suggest??
Turbo Mini Forums

I have re-built my carb. and re fitted it to my car. I found a great big hole in the air line that comes off of the brass insert in the compressor housing, the pipe that went to the boost solenoid.

This is now my problem, after I put the carb etc on my car and replaced the air line with a big hole in it runs like a bag of poo. This is obviously down to the mixture and fast idle etc settings.
Now before you all jump down my throat to go to a rolling road. I am in the process of buying a house so money is tight! I do not have the ability to get my car there unless i get it at least close to tuned!

So what I am after is some advice as to how I can at least get it to idle and then drivable enough to get it to the rolling road.

Also I am not entirely sure that this is the problem.

Thanks, all advice suggestions very welcome (after spending nearly 50 quid on the rebuild kit not so happy it still wont work).

What I would do is either drive it VERY gently or get a mate to tow you on a rope to your nearest MOT centre. There is bound to be one quite close to you if you live in a town. Then get them to put the car on their gas tester machine, and set the idle CO to approx 3.5%. Then set up the idle speed using the adjuster and it should hopefully be somewhere approximately near, at least good enough to get you gently to the rolling road on low (no?) boost.

I cant even get it to run without stopping if a hit the accelerator at the mo so might have a bit of a go with the mixture. I am a bit worried I have done some thing wrong!

Would you reccomend fitting the intercooler that I have before my rolling road session? to save going twice?

I was also wondering what is likely to be a good price for a rolling road session, I dont have a clue what I should be expecting so even a top price or or an idea would be good!

Also if I were to later fit a bleed valve it should'nt effect the mixture? should it?

Have you tried putting the pipe with the big hole in it back on? i.e. as it was before, I assume it ran ok then?

Fast idle as you describe is usually caused by an air leak rather than a lack of one.

Wil

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

I dont understand why I should do that?
I am reluctant to put the pipe back on as the pipe was melted from touching the exhaust manifold so I know it is not right. The problem is I changed two things at once the carb rebuild and the pipe!

My concern is that i know the mixture screw is not in the right position, I replaced the butterfly with poppet to the one supplied in the kit without, I changed the jet and cleaned out a world of crap from inside the dash pot.
Basically did the whole shebang involved in rebuilding the carb. I have since read a post that says i should have changed the choke internal seals. Mine looked ok but they are not supplied in the kit or mentioned in the rebuild method.

The rebuild method post reccomends following the setup procedure supplied in the kit but my kits' intructions only said to get a pressure test!

The set up method gives you a basic mixture setting. It is something like screw the mixture screw all the way in then back it of so many turns. I can't remember how many off the top of my head but have a careful read through the rebuild kit instructions it is in there somewhere.
The rebuild method DOES detail changing the choke spindle seals, I know as I wrote it!!

Also have you put any oil in the dashpot that is a classic symptom (stops as soon as you hit throttle) of no oil in.

As regards getting the mixture something like right - this'll get u started:
1) Remove dashpot assy.
2) Check needled holder is flush with underside of piston.
3) (back at the carb) Look at the jet. Note that it is located in a brass sleeve, in the bridge area. You need the top of the jet to be halfway between the top of the sleeve and the bridge. That'll be something like close.

Now adjust the idle screw. wind it in a good few turns so the butterfly is well open. This allows you to easilly start the mini, then walk round and wind it back down to a decent tickover again.

Oil in dashpot aswell as McGyver pointed out...

Edited by turbodave16v on 17th May, 2005.

Hi, I have done the things you suggested TD and I must say it is not quite right but it feels good to drive now that i have remedied the air line side of the system. I am only boosting a small amount now like you are supposed to with the stock actuator. But the whole drive seems so much smoother and the boost picks up progressively.

Just got to finally get through to the rolling road!! wont answer their phone. I cant wait to get it tuned looking forward to adding intercooler and upping the boost.

Should i consider these things before the tuning sessions?

Thanks again for your help!!

i'd definately fit the cooler before the RR, then you can adjust the boost up while ont he rollers.

Great, I'll start working on the fitment of the cooler asap! Is it ok to use a bleed valve to up the boost or is it best to get a new actuator?

Bleed valve will be fine.

I think I may go down the MBC route after reading about them on this site, is this ok?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...7974955170&rd=1

Bleed valve, MBC, whatever - it's boost that makes power, not the prettiness of either or the ebay selling jargon...

Sorry! just didnt want to waste my money on something that is a lie or crap!

I was just asking if that is the same as others use, I read some have been stitched up by sellers selling rubbish. However all the links on their posts are too old to view so could not see if they were pointing to a similar item to the one I posted!!!!

I am a very nervous purchaser as I have bought things that were not correct etc in the past. But, I am having to get money for fitting intercooler, MBC and rolling road oh and a MORTGAGE!!

Know what you mean...

Suffice to say, Jimster, Jon, Myself, Stu Wright, Andy cameron - and other high runners in the class D races have all used bleed valves and not really had any complaints. If you have a bleed valve already, £20 for a MBC is not money well spent. If you can get a bleed valve for £10, buy it over the MBC and save a tenner - but if a bleed valve is £25, get the MBC.

There is tons to do to a mini turbo before concerning yourself with losing a tiniest bit of boost pressure in those milliseconds just before the actuator fully opens!