Project "Marginal gains..."
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi Robert,

I have to say off the top of my head I wasn't sure as I have only ever known or used K Nuts for anything I have ever done and not ever questioned it, they like NAS bolts are 160,000 psi tensile, all the tech specs I have looked at for grade 8 nuts etc seem to be similar or marginally lower than this. I can only think of 12.9 spec bolts which are above this level.

I can't think of any application, suspension / engine / transmission where the vehicles I have seen / worked with have used anything but K Nuts in one form or another.

I am by no means an expert in this area but as far as what is available 'off the shelf' I think they are as good or exceed anything else especially with the other benefits they possess.

Cheers

Looking good!

What did you use to drill the hand brake ratchety part? I couldn't even scratch mine!

thanks, i'll try t find some cheap ones !

Edited by robert on 18th Oct, 2017.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Carbide drill may well work.

Yeah I think a drill stand / pillar drill as a minimum and something better than HSS drill bits, as you say carbide or cobalt.

I found this on another forum a while back, can't vouch for its detail but all seems plausible:

HSS Drill Bits - Work well up to the 50ish RHC
Drill - Mild steel, Some tool steel, Some Spring Steel
No Drill - Hard Plate, Anti Drill Plate, 404c Stainless Steel
Pro - Good in Hand Drills and most drilling applications
Con - Has limitations in hardened steels

Cobalt - Works up to 58ish RHC
Drill - Mild Steel, Some Spring Steel, Some Tool Steel
No Drill - Hard Plate, Anti Drill Plate, 440C Stainless Steel
Pro - Good for hand drills and most drilling applications
Con - Has limits with hardened steel

Carbide Tipped - Will drill almost any steel, Hard, Stainless or Mild.
Pro - Drills all steel
Con- Blunt tip requires extreme pressure to produce cuttings. Drill bit is hard to start on all steels.

Diamond Coated Drill Bit - Cuts on most steels(Not Hard Plate) just not for long.
Pro - Will Drill most steels (Not Hard Plate)
Con - Cutting stops quickly after diamond grit has warn off, Then behaves like HSS bit

Solid Carbide Drill Bit - Cuts all steels.
Pro - Sharpened points wont "walk" like carbide tipped bit. Cuts all steel
Con - Sharp tip and fine edges can chip easily and ruin drill bit. Not for hand drills. Expensive!

Good info

Cheers

A step closer to finishing the sump now



You can just see that it's filled with water, it has 4 litres as shown and this level is about 10mm below the windage tray.



A very simple vertical baffle



With the obligatory rubber one-way flaps, just one trial fitted for now



Still considering adding a horizontal baffle but not sure yet





And the now stubby oil pickup pipe



In total these together are just under 0.5kg lighter than the standard sump and pick up

Still have to figure out how to do the dipstick and drain plug according to the space available

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 10th Jul, 2017.

Nice flaps.

the sump i made for a 8 litre supercharged '27 Bentley i used ally flaps , i could not bring myself to use rubber ....i know, i know... i'm just ultra conservative .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

The build thread as ever got messed up when Photobucket changed it's format a while ago and I cannot edit the old posts to try and fix it

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=143716&page=7

The Midget is currently in storage and the engine plans have changed, it would be too boring to stick an XE in it now

Just wish I had more space as I'd happily work on both

Cheers

So quite few parts are off getting plated, coated and kephos'd at the moment so I have only been able to get on with bits and pieces.

After much trials and tribulations the inlet manifold flanges are done, the manifold will be fabricated stainless as some of the curved to straight sections will be inaccessible inside to clean up after welding so it will be TIG / purged to keep the inside as clean as possible.



All of the 'off the shelf' flanges I could find were literally 10mm slabs with the port and stud detail cut in weighing nearly 2kg for mild steel. These are less than 600g for all 4 flanges.

You can also just see the COP's which I am mocking up for height and fixings as I they are lighter than the coil packs I have weighed but more importantly in this tight engine bay, I don't have to find a home for an external coil pack and having HT leads trailing around the engine bay.



I need to wait for the engine mounts to come back so I can mock up the inlet clearances, so the other bits getting done is the rear trailing arm mount / section;



These are the end caps / solid mounts into the heelboard for the ally extrusion section.

I am making ally tubes for the inboard solid mounts.

Bar tidying it up, the gear lever base is done I think. I looked at a few mounting options but decided to weld a base plate to the body;

[url=https://flic.kr/p/WwEe1s]

The main reason was to save as much weight as possible as adding brackets adds bolts / nuts and this has come in at just under 300g as pictured.



Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 10th Jul, 2017.

nice work.

Edited by robert on 18th Oct, 2017.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Great minds must think alike. Looks very similar to my gear linkage solution

Cheers Robert,

Show us a picture Slater, always interested to see what others have done

Cheers

So I've got 2/3rd's of me bits back



The zinc phosphate parts in both clear and yellow / gold.

I have snook a few bits in from other projects as well but I am still waiting for the suspension / wishbone black Kephos parts before I can mock a few things up again.

Work that pays the bills is limiting my play time but still ticking over

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 10th Jul, 2017.

A selection of me slightly more interesting black bits



As I say they are fuel, scratch, oil and heat resistant and the coating is thin enough to allow proper crack checking of parts, powder coating adds weight but more importantly you cannot carry out proper checks with Magnaflux type checking systems

I am still outstanding more of these parts before I can properly progress which is a chore after 3 weeks but hopefully soon it will be all done

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 10th Jul, 2017.

blimey!

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

VERY nice!

Spencer - We use those rubber flaps on our sump baffles at work out of the M3/M5 I think? I've found that the rubber tends to go hard after a while and the oil wouldn't return back to where it should. That was using 20/50 grade oil and with 10/60. Just thought I'd let you know. sump looks great though!

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I'm just watching and learning as always

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing