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Home > Show Us Yours! > Turbo Cooper - floor repairs

Brett

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Doncaster, South Yorkshire

some nice little touches here, i do like the damper pully 36-1 cutting tool

how have you attached the big silicone 90 to the top of the manifold?

edit:. does the ms2 use the standard sensors from the spi? never really looked into it

what fuel pressure does it run ? its 1 bar for the spi isnt it?

Edited by Brett on 11th Jul, 2014.

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


PhilR

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Birmingham


Cheers for your comments guys *smiley* I'm making most of this up as I go along, so please also tell me if anything I attempt is a dumb idea.

On 11th Jul, 2014 Carlzilla said:
Some good ideas in here and ingenuity (sp?) but I too have a SIP welder which ive modded, but yet to set it up yet so I wont know how well it works, added a separate PSU for the wire feed motor which adds motor braking, along with the wire feed strap.


The older SIP Migmates are sinful excuses for welders. Modding them makes such a difference. I'd happily buy an older 150A / 170A model for next to nothing and do the mods you've done.

I've not documented anything I've done to mine (105 Amp Migmate) yet, so here's a 1 post summary in case it helps anyone (There's plenty more info around the web). The first three make a huge difference:

1) 24V PSU and relay for the motor and wired the relay to provide motor braking (shorts the motor leads when the relay is open)

2)Strap holding the drive wheel and tensioner wheel together. Without it the two wheels touch each other instead of gripping the wire!

3)Cheap plastic wire liner replaced with steel liner - much less drag on the wire; wire speed doesn't vary as much when you reposition the torch cable. (I suspect the steel liner is not working well with Alu wire but not looked into it properly)

4)Shaved the tensioner spring to about a 1/3rd of it's width. The drive wheel is driven by a square shaft that wasn't centred in the wheel. In the photo below, I've pulled the spring out from under the adjuster knob, and when turned on, the free end of the spring moves a couple of mm up and down each revolution. I can't fix the drive wheel, so I reduced the spring rate so the tension varies less over each turn. You also need to tweak the spring upwards to pre-load it a bit too.

5) Better earth clamp.

6) Found a rent-free gas supplier and stopped wasting money on the disposable canisters.



After all that, I had a very good welder. I went one step further and replaced the motor with a stepper motor and Arduino controller. The motor speed is as precise as it gets and I have a load of features I want to program in (someday). The Arduino and stepper motor was interesting to learn and works great, but in reality the mods listed above make an great welder.



I bit of a mess, but it's one of those projects that's never finished!


Carlzilla

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Quarry Bonk

Looks tidy, I could still do with a better clamp tbh, I had an old gasless mig which died, got a free 150T that needed some serious love and a new case, and combined the two haha. I picked up a different type of PSU, i can tweak the output voltage but I still think it needs a better motor really.

On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper

On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!!

17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine)


PhilR

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Birmingham


On 11th Jul, 2014 Brett said:
some nice little touches here, i do like the damper pully 36-1 cutting tool
how have you attached the big silicone 90 to the top of the manifold?


Thanks Brett.

The manifold lip is about 102mm / 4". I've made a 4mm Alu plate that has rounded edges and diameter is 2.5mm wider than the manifold lip; It screws down using the 3 bolt holes for original airbox and It will be spaced 2-4mm above the manifold.




When I made it, I think I had an idea that lots of holes would help even out the air flow into the manifold (Just a theory that I have no way to test). Worst case, the total area of all the drilled holes is greater than the area of the throttle body so shouldn't cause a restriction, and help keep the plate strong as it's only held down with 3 bolts .



In the second pic, I've turned the injector plate through 180 degrees to move the silicone hose further back in the engine bay. I've still got to do another trial fit in the engine bay soon, so I'm just seeing how I can tweak it so I don't run out of room. It's sitting a bit higher than the original KandN filter, which was already a tight fit.

The main problem is how to seal around the injector connector - I haven't decided yet

On 11th Jul, 2014 Brett said:

does the ms2 use the standard sensors from the spi? never really looked into it


At the point I left it, I had nearly everything working. I had a plug and play ECU that looked the same as, and was interchangeable with the Rover MEMs unit.

TPS - yes

Coolant temp - yes

Air temp -yes

SPI timing wheel on back of flywheel - yes, I think you need to use the MSEXTRA firmware as that has a 36-2 timing wheel option (IIRC)

Narrow band Lambda - yes, but I used a wideband 02 sensor and controller which outputs 0-5V to ms2. Either should work.

* Other, non sensor stuff *

Tach signal to display - yes

Immobiliser - yes

stepper idle control - I little bit of work. Needed a handful of FETs on the proto area of the board.

Original ECU casing - yes. Needed to mount the MAP sensor on the underside of the board

Coolant temp indicator on dash - NO / I don't know yet! I was still tuning last time I used it, so had the temp on laptop screen. When my engine went bang, coolant was spot on on 82deg, but oil temp was through the roof and I didn't know. In hindsight, there were clues, but Lesson learnt the hard way.

I had intended to picture and document how to make a plug and play replacement for the SPI - if anyone thinks this would still be useful, let me know and I'll get it written up in detail.


On 11th Jul, 2014 Brett said:

what fuel pressure does it run ? its 1 bar for the spi isnt it?


Yep, regulator in the manifold runs at 1 bar by default. I'm thinking that because it's inside the turbo hosing, it could easily be made to 'sense' the boost pressure and stay exactly 1 bar over that.

Fuel pump can hold a static pressure of 3bar. (Don't know how flow rate would affect that, or even whether the pump would last 5mins at that pressure)

Edited by PhilR on 16th Jul, 2014.


PhilR

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Birmingham


On 12th Jul, 2014 Carlzilla said:
Looks tidy, I could still do with a better clamp tbh, I had an old gasless mig which died, got a free 150T that needed some serious love and a new case, and combined the two haha. I picked up a different type of PSU, i can tweak the output voltage but I still think it needs a better motor really.


Nice work - Much tidier than mine!

Might be worth squirting some contact cleaner on the motor brushes and use a steel cable liner so motor doesn't have to try so hard.


Brett

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Doncaster, South Yorkshire

excellent mate, its nice to see the custom parts and tools it shows that not everyone is purely copying whats already been done
my mig welder has turned into quite a franken welder aswell,
the wire feed on mine is useless at the minute but i think its alittle past its best to warrant spending money on it ( its a 20+ yo clarke) and is not a high powerd unit

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


PhilR

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Birmingham

I've changed direction with this slightly. I've had a rethink about some of the work I've done and I'm not happy with the way I'd pocketed the 998 block, so I've gone back to the 1275 block. I was expecting the machining costs to really hurt but I think I've gotten of lightly:

Re-bore - £80
Crank regrind - £45
Hone mains - £30
Centre main strap - £ree !

To keep the new parts costs down I bought some std 21253 pistons and machined the dishes out. I made a jig from scraps and my die grinder:



Pistons went from 8.4cc dish to 11.5cc which should give me a CR of slightly under 9:1. I'm really chuffed with how they came out.



Took an old bottle jack and some more scraps and made a mini bench press to remove the gudgeon pins. Like the piston jig, it's not pretty, but it did the job *smiley*


PhilR

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Birmingham

This week, my engine work has really bottomed out. I've put effort and money into getting my 1275 block up and running, only to find the mains are a mess and it will probably need another £200 to line bore them back into shape.

I've put the 1275 block on hold and looking again at the 2 998 blocks that I have. I want to run a 12G 940 head so started taking measurements to work out how deeply I need to pocket the block, when I realised the head I wanted to use has been skimmed on the slant- It's been clamped down without the machinist noticing the valve stems stick out 1/2mm, so it's been cut 1mm deeper at the front than at the back, FFS.

The heads to scrap, but I'll lose volume in the chamber, so I may just save this for a NA engine. I've got another 12G940 that appears to be in good shape so I'm going to spend some time grinding that out over the next few days.


PhilR

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Birmingham

This is a 12G940 head I had tucked away and just found it recently. It hasn't been skimmed and looking at the valve seats, despite all the crud, it looks to be in really good shape. The plan is:

Open the ports closer to the gasket line / locator rings.
Grind out the valve bosses and open the throat a little.
New valve guides, bulleted.
Chamber volume to be decided(need to measure 998 with flat top pistons tomorrow) but aiming for CR 9:1









skolawn

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Coventry

interesting read some wicked ingenuity, be interesting to see what you could do with some decent gear..


PhilR

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Birmingham

Yeah, I've gotten quite good at getting by with what every hand tools / power tools I have. A couple of months ago, I wanted to buy a bench grinder and realised that I don't even have a bench! Soon fixed with a bit of welding, and soon as it was done I wondered how I've managed for the last 15 years. One day, when I have my own double garage, I'd love some serious kit like a lathe and milling machine but that's a long way off.

Small updates; Cracking on as I don't want this to drag on as it's getting colder and colder. Valves were in pretty good shape. The exhausts had slight pitting which I've cut out and now look like new. Just getting ready to make the first cuts in the head tomorrow.




robert

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uranus

incredible inventiveness...makes me hang my head in shame at how little i get done.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


PhilR

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Birmingham

Haha, only just seen your post Robert... If you don't think you get much done then check out the time-stamps on my posts!

Head almost complete. Thel Rover guides had been drilled miles off center. New guides went in fine, but the valves hardly touched the seats! It took more grinding than I'd expected to get them seated and left bad ridges where the valves were now recessed. I made a tool to cut a 30 /60 degree top and bottom angles to tidy the seats up and but 30 degree back cuts on the valves. In hindsight I would happily just have gotten someone with the right equipment to recut the seats, but glad I tried it.

Since I want to run this head without pocketing the block, sinking the seats a little can't hurt, and now I have poor-man's 3 angle seats *smiley*

Edited by PhilR on 4th Feb, 2015.


PhilR

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Birmingham

Block next. This a 99p eBay engine and gearbox that looks to be in pretty good heath. Just need the block for now, so I'll crack on with a few modifications, 11 bolt, oil jets next.




SadamPl

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Wroclaw/Poland

Great job on the head.

The rods should have a squirter hole drilled in already so I don't think you need the jets really.

Made in Poland build thread:
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=570363&fr=0


theoneeyedlizard

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The Boom Boom speaker Police!

Essex

Excellent work. Well Impreseed with the homemade stuff.

Edited by theoneeyedlizard on 4th Feb, 2015.

In the 13's at last!.. Just


jonny f

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Dorking

Awesome stuff!


clubman91

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North Wales

Great work phil


PhilR

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Birmingham

Cheers Guys.

SadamPl, I had a really good think last night about what you said regarding the rod squirters, but I think I'd already made up my mind and was just thinking of reasons to back up what I wanted to do! My conclusion was that the rods should do a good job of getting a small amount of oil up there (enough to lubrication to the wrist pins) but nothing more. To actually cool the pistons, I think you need oil jets that were designed just for that and send a flood of oil up there. I honestly hope the're not needed as I don't want an engine that's that close to destruction with out them, but it offers some piece of mind if I make a stupid mistake when tuning.

Sooooo, here's the oil jets in place...





I previously made a tool that held my die grinder a set distance over the holes so I could push it along the block's gearbox mounting face. This worked great and made a perfectly level surface. But I couldn't find it. So I had a look around and here's what I used to counterbore the seats instead *hehe!*



As it's only designed to cut wood I wasn't expecting it to hold up too well, but it made beautiful cuts (even though I had to sharpen it several times). The cutting edges are each at a very slight 5 degree angle pointing downwards, so originally I thought I would just grind them back, then I had another idea... Since I'm doing all of this freehand, it would actually be better to have the center or the surface slightly convex. This would better allow for a slight angle in my freehand drilling / tapping and if I put sealing washers under the jets, then the surfaces would pinch the washers nicely to get a good seal.

Looking at the washers afterwards and they look to have all sealed perfectly. Still need to put the crank and pistons in to check clearance. I had several reasons for and against putting them inline with the bores, I'm confident there's enough room with a bit of tweaking.

It's certainly not 'classical engineering', but sometimes you just have to try odd-ball stuff. It worked, so I'm happy *smiley*

Edited by PhilR on 4th Feb, 2015.


Anthony30

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Rainhill, Merseyside.

Good work! Can't wait to see how the SPI system works, compared to a HIF44 carb.*Clapping* What turbo are you using?*oh well*

On 18th Nov, 2014 D4VE said:
went down to my local hydraulics place and he gave me a suitable replacement larger nipple *smiley*


clubman91

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North Wales

What oil jets are thay?

Mark.


theoneeyedlizard

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Essex

I can't believe that managed to cut the block.

In the 13's at last!.. Just


PhilR

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Birmingham

Turbo is a Chinese TD04-11 TF035HM-12T. It should be similar to GT17, but I plan to measure it up before fitting - maps and spec are hard to find.

Oil jets were from a Mercedes (2010 C180). They're not bad, although bulkier than the favored BMW jets. They were originally rectangular, but because of my hole placements, I had to trim the bodies down for clearance.

I wasn't sure the drill would work, but I had 2 other methods if it failed, so was worth a shot! Cast iron is pretty soft, but I also learned that you can cut it with a rake angle of 0 degrees, so explains why a flat faced bit works. Probably wouldn't cut anything else though!

I checked for rod clearance today and had to grind the conrod oil squirters off, and tweak the oil jet pipes. Knowing how easy it was to face the block surface, if I did it again I'd just drill off to the side with a slightly smaller drill bit, and the jet's would have dropped straight in.



Edited by PhilR on 5th Feb, 2016.


TurboDave16V
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SouthPark, Colorado

This is a cool thread; full of "can do" stuff. Never did I think a spade drill for wood, would ever work on CI.

Kudos fella. Kudos indeed.

TD

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



Rammie2000

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belgium

Cool tread. You give me courage again for my turbo engine.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

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