Shot blasting and painting
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi, my car is in for blasting soon, but it will need a few repairs before its ready for the body shop.. should i get it primed after blasting to prevent it rusting while im fitting new panels etc.

If i do then am i ok to seam seal over the primer?

cheers.

Yes would be wise! Mark, seam sealer you always put on after the prima

I'd always put sealer on after primer anyway

Great cheers fellas :)

there is a chemical called t-phos from trimite it is a phosphoric acid in resin or something. We use it at work on all the shells we have blasted or strip manually it stops moisture rusting the steel but can be welded through. we use it as it is a clear (yellowish) liquid that when put on blasted shells just makes them look slightly darker grey or it has a colour that can be added so its obvious its been done. Most well setup blasters will know the stuff and probably use it. If not be carfull who blasts a shell as if not done properly it can seriously damage/distort it.

My small bore turbo project http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=473901

Thanks Jlay - He didnt mention it.. but amongst the his current jobs was a nice mexico that looked spot on.

What does t-phos cost in comparison to 2k paint?

not sure we buy it in 25lt drums its thin like thinners. i will try and find out for you

My small bore turbo project http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=473901

I think the requirment to primer depends how long you plan on being till the shell goes to paint, aswell as where its stored.

mines going in for blasting later this week, my garage is attached to the house to quite warm at all hours.
im hoping mine will be ok without the primer.
you could just leave un-primed the areas you plan on welding. that way if it does start to slightly surface rust, there will be less to re-prep

David.

mine was coated in iron phosphate after it was dipped. it went a little fuzzy, but no rust after a few weeks. My garage is a bit damp and breasy, so not the best of storage conditions.

blasted metal starts to rust in record time. the oils out your skin and hands will do it within hours.

My small bore turbo project http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=473901

Blast, prime then cat litter/ silica crystals in tubs to absorb the moisture arround, has worked brilliantly for my for the last 5 years well the litter anyways

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

Silica is a good shout, cheers Paul.

Car will be kept in a garage attached to my house, it's insulated and as dry as a garage can be.. But I'm sold on the fact it needs to be primed etc.

This is where the build starts to get expensive.

were running a little low on T-phos at the moment but hopefully there is a new tub on order. i can see about getting you half lt or so it does go a long way.

My small bore turbo project http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=473901

thanks for the offer buddy but i wont be painting it this time..

Mark, it will want priming anyway so id say sooner the better. even though its warm it will still start oxidising, the outer surfaces are ok to clean up again but all those nucks n crannies arnt and theres loads on a mini

rick

Edited by cossierick on 24th Jul, 2012.

yeah that was the main reason for getting it blasted, getting into all the seams and nooks etc would take me forever!

also i will hopefully have a solid car for a while.. aim for this one to be a keeper :)

I know there are issues pre -welding but for protection you carn't beat having the shell e-coated. Its the reason modern cars last much better as it paints beyond line of sight which you get with a spray gun.