F**king bleeding metro 4 pots
Turbo Mini Forums

just spent the last few day trying to bleed my new brake setup until i had to take all the calipers apart as the piston were not moving i think this was due to me rebuilding them a while ago and then theyve just been sat in the shed. iv got them to the piont where the peddle has pressure and each wheel locks up when pedle pressed but the peddle still feels a bit sponge but no air coming out iv been at this since 7am so iv been round and round bleed them in all different ways, iv also noticed that the calipers flex quite a bit is this normal?

Done now needs redoing lol

I had trouble with these and found that if you use a pressure bleeder and open both bleed valves on the caliper at the same time, as well as having someone pump on the brake pedal, it clears the air.

It also helps if you jam the pedal down hard and leave it overnight.

Have you got them the right way up?

yes andy they are the correct way up and iv been using a one man bleed kit. Just dont seem to be getting any more air out

Done now needs redoing lol

sometimes I've had better results with someone pumping the pedal and holding it down while the air is bled off.

I always run a clear tube back to the master and just pump it through.

I like the sound of that idea Joe, but are you not putting air back in the system, I've read it some where that bled fluid contains air bubbles so should not be used until it is stored in a container until the air bubbles dissipate.. Alan.

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Ive not had a problem doing it, but it could be an issue.

I have noticed old fluid tends to hold air more and you can end up with a load of tiny bubbles suspended in the fluid, but if the fluid looks crap then I stick the pipe into an old bottle and just keep topping the master with fresh.

the pipe is good beacause you can just leave the nipple open and it dosent tend to draw back into the caliper much, I use that stuff for aqarium airlines with a bit of silicon dumpvalve signal hose or similar on the nipple end.

I'm going to try it next time I bleed any of my brakes, just to see how it works for me, thanks Joe.. Alan.

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no probs

to add to the above, dont open the nipple too far so air can get in the threads, half a turn is usually about right,

good for the clutch too!

I just ran some 8mm dia. Hose, from the nipple, into a bottle with fluid in it (end of hose submerged), pumped the pedal 20 or so times and job done, did this with brakes and clutch too.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

If you only use a bottle and a pipe with out the one way valve in the end, then the best way is as above, but on the last stroke hold your foot at the bottom and get some one to lock off the bleed nipple, that way you don't draw air back in to the system.. Alan.

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im going to give it a good going at today and shall report back with which method worked

Edited by wng691s clubby on 3rd Aug, 2012.

Done now needs redoing lol

Two of the three nipples have to be bled together, but I can't remember which off the top of my head.

just thought i would say i sorted this and it wasnt bleeding the brake that was the problem it was the copper washers fro the brake switch weeping new washer and a good tighen and sorted. cheers for the help guys

Done now needs redoing lol