Mg Metro Turbo coolant plumbing
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi

This is my first post.

I have a GTM coupe which I am rebuilding.

I am struggling to find the correct setup for the coolant plumbing.
Currently I have no heater valve (There is not one on the head on the engine) so hot water constantly flows through the heater matrix.

So I need to:
1 - Install a valve inside the car just prior to heater matrix
2 - Ensure flow through the inlet manifold when the heater valve is turned off, I think.

I have added multiple drawing, I can think to plumb this and think solution 5 is correct.

Could anyone please confirm which would be the correct/best setup?

Kind regards

Jay

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Edited by j19ood on 2nd Oct, 2012.

Sorry the filename are lost:
Image 496598-1.png is the current setup
Image 496598-2.png was my solution 5 also attached to this reply below
Image 496598-3.png was my solution 4
Image 496598-4.png was my solution 3

Thanks in advance for any assistance

Jay

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Edited by j19ood on 2nd Oct, 2012.

Image 496598-4587.png was my soluton number 1

Edited by j19ood on 2nd Oct, 2012.

I would ditch the path through the inlet manifold, as its not great for performance, and as yours is a gtm, you will probably be fighting heat in the inlet tract anyway...

is the hot water through the matrix contantly that much of an issue? can you not just shut the heater vent flap?

Hi Joe

Thanks for the reply.
Yes The car runs hot especially as the engine is at the rear, so is un plumbing the inlet a wise option?
Pic attached - would this be correct?

Well the plumbing is 28mm copper pipe through the centre of the car, so inside the car is extremely hot, and I wanted to reduce the heat.

So a valve onto the matrix was my first attempt to resolve this.
My second attempt would be to replace the copper pipe with some plastic pipe, similar to the stuff they use for underground water pipe, (need to research this further though)

Thanks

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Edited by j19ood on 2nd Oct, 2012.

Ah, ok,

how about a divertor valve from somthing like a KA, you should be able to flow the water either through the heater or straight back to the bottom hose then, totally taking the matrix out of circuit,

and yep i'd definatly loose the manifold path.

rather than plastic piping, can you just slide a bit of foam insulation over the pipes.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Fiesta-KA-P...=item4cfdbf88f6

Hi Thanks a lot for your advise

Unfortunately there is no room for foam insulation, is tightly encased down the centre of the car, past the gear selector, wires etc.

For the plumbing would I need it to flow, if the Heater valve is off, as this only feeds from the Separator pipe under the thermostat.
Is the KA valve electric?
I would need a cable operated valve I think, unless I took the Heater controls also from a KA.

I take it the plumbing is correct here:
Solution 6a with KA valve attached

Cheers

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I guess this would save the extra Plumbing and reduce to 3 pipes also:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OPEL-CO...#ht_1389wt_1460

This may be of help to you mate, does what Joe says lets you turn off your
heater and still lets the water circulate..

Its like this when you get it off ebay


You need to trim the plastic back to this


Tap fitted to the heater


Finished Job

Edited by nala56 on 2nd Oct, 2012.

Main Build
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=489133

Upgrade to Turbo
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=448367&fr=0

Thanks

I take it this controlled by Electirc?
Looks like this has a motor also.
I was thinking of using a cable operated valve.

If I de-plumb the Inlet manifold, (Joe states this will improve performance), Would I still need this circulating?

It will come out the separator plate, to the Valve/Heater - out the heater to the bottom return hose from the rad.

I don't quite understand why I would need this circulating back when the heater valve is off.
The water would return the bottom hose not having been cooled even by the heater.

Am I missunderstanding something?

Thanks

you are asking the roght questions,

with the thermostat closed there shold still be some flow, otherwise the engine could overheat before the stat opens.... the heater path takes care of this....

not sure how the Ka valve operates via dc, but i expect voltage one way opens it and voltage the other shuts it, but it sholdnt have pover applied constantly...

Thanks Joe
I'll have to get hold of oner of these valve then, and a connector for it.
No Idea what I'll need to control it.

nala56 how did you wire this up?
What heater controls in the car do you have?

thanks