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Home > Show Us Yours! > E5TUS - 2023: Some turbo tinkering & Hillclimbing

DILLIGAF

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I changed the drop gear ratio when I wanted to make mine taller, with that 3.44 and the 0.958:1 drops you could have got a 3.2:1.
Mind you it'd probably cost the same as buying the new diff.


e5tus

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Yeah, that's a good point. I've been using the roller type drops for a while in a couple of engines, but they only come in 1:1 or 1.04:1 so wouldn't help in this instance.


e5tus

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So, got some mods to do on the turbo shell for Motorsport UK compliance in order to get its competition passport. The cage is a safety devices 6 point. It meets the regs and although any cage made from CDS of the correct size would be suitable, the safety devices one is certified, and as it’s a design that was pre-approved before 1995, means it can be 38mm diameter rather than 45mm, good for weight.

Where this was and is suitable for use in road-going, some enforced changes to our class system has been aligned with the yearbook, by definition we are now modified (formerly RTV but not standard – all turbo, supercharged and 16v road legal cars lived here in our championship), so need to meet the requirements. Need to add 120cm2 steel reinforcement plates for each foot.

I’ve ordered some 3mm plate, and will be getting to this shortly. I’ve already got external battery cut-off, but whilst I’m adding the cage plates, I’ll move my cut-off switch internally, didn’t realise when I fitted it on the tunnel, I like to rest my foot there, so need to move it across to stop me from kicking it!



I think asides from replacing the plastic fire extinguisher tube the kit came with (annoying?!) to some reg friendly metal tube and the cage plates, I’m there (asides from the current lack of engine in the car).

Whilst the welder is out, I will make some mods to the TT2 seat mounts. Want to add some crush tubes to the box rails where they mount to the shell, as one is drilled oversize (pig to fit) but has gotten slightly loose at a couple of events and it’s a total twat to get in the back and sort out when it fails scrutineering.


e5tus

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Been away with work for a couple of weeks, typically now I’m back the garage will be Baltic, but looking forward to some tinkering.

Plan for tomorrow is to remove the poly windows from TT2 and do any welding/grinding on that.

I need to do some mock up for new dash pod too, with the wheel finally in a decent spot, can’t see the temp or oil pressure gauges without some strange neck craning. Plan to 3d print a mould to have a go at a wet lay composite jobber. I’ve been inspired by recently revisiting Graham T’s thread.

Need to replace the cracked engine steady too, hoping to use a thermostat sandwich plate setup.



Whilst I'm around the cooling system, will look at fan and potential for a bigger one, the temp creeps when in paddock even with the fan on, I’ve got pretty good at timing it about right, but an improvement to the system would be ideal.


e5tus

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I got the seat out and adjusted the mount that didn’t quite grab the rail enough. They completely clamp the box now, and with the crush tubes there is no movement, so I can rest easy about the scrutineers hanging off them.



Started taking the windows out, then a small issue developed. I dropped my spanner into the companion bin, where it found an 8mm spanner sized gap between the closing panel and wing… thus fucking-off into the sill.



I figured it would be an easy retrieve with a magnet, but the only magnet that would fit wasn’t strong enough to retrieve the little bugger. This let to about an hour and a half of repeated variations of fishing for the spanner, combined with poking about through the sill drain hole. Obviously one of these operations is internal, one is external, and the car is still on the trailer, so by the time I got the spanner back having climbed in and out of the car about a hundred times, I was completely knackered and out of enthusiasm.

I came back at the weekend with some renewed enthusiasm, got the windows out, but not yet ready to fit the new ones or the seat until I’ve done grinding and welding.

I had a poke about in a scabby area of the passenger footwell, at some point in the season I’d noticed a pinhole of light… the floor had split at the front end of the jacking point. Not major and easily rectified once there’s enough room to get the car off the trailer.

As mentioned, the latest steering wheel position means I cannot see the aux gauges when harnessed in.



So made some measurements, originally planned to 3D print a mock up and hoped to use it for laying up over. But once the face plate came out, actually thought I’d try and print the whole thing.



Came out well. I’m assuming some mods will be needed so used up some random filament we had surplus of. In PLA it came in at 140 grams, be interesting to see what the current ABS one weighs when it comes out.


e5tus

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The guess print, from a couple of dimensions wasn’t bad. Difficult without a seat in at the moment, but this is the issue I’d created with the steering wheel size and position..



The print solves the blind gauge issue, like so..



Couple of mods to make to the CAD file (that’s the worst/slowest part of the process for me), the 52mm holes are slightly undersized, I should have known about the hole allowance, but didn’t take it into account as I was rushing to get the print done whilst I was in the office last year! I didn’t know the tacho size, found a similar one online which suggested it was 3 3/8”, but that was not the case. Need to add the warning lamps and mounting hardware holes. Can also reduce the print thickness on the front face. Hopefully this will reduce the new pod to around the same weight as the old one like-for-like.



Also had an intermittent issue that was becoming more regular towards the end of the season, occasionally when I’d go to start I’d have to prod the start button several times before it worked. Stripped the Battery Box/Switch Panel, and when I tested the switch it was failing every 4/5 times, so in the bin it went and got a new Lucas momentary push button.

Whilst the box is apart, I’ll take the opportunity to tart it up, it’s housed a few variations over the years with a selection of redundant holes. I’ll also move the GoPro remote here, as won’t have space where it was with the new dash pod arrangement.



e5tus

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Final print came out well, with all the mods from the first mock-up incorporated.



With the reduced wall thickness and additional holes, it came in under the weight of the original unit. The larger size meant I got away with less mounting hardware, reducing that by 75%. Overall I’m very happy with it, nice to see the back of the “carbon” hydro-dipped pod because I’m a tart. Shift light is missing here as it’s attached to the OMEX unit mounted on the dashrail.



The new battery box lid switch panel was probably not needed either, but it killed a couple of hours and made happy.



Once there’s some space in the workshop, I’ll get the car off the trailer and finally weld up that floor that’s lurking in the background of that shot! Then I can get the new windows in and seat re-fitted. Got a test day on 14th March and first event is the weekend after.


Turbo Phil

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Nice!! 😎

Phil.

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theoneeyedlizard

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Excellent

Great to see a thread alive here.

In the 13's at last!.. Just


e5tus

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Morning all, cold weekend so a good reason to don the overalls and do some welding.

Had some space in the workshop since the MGA we'd been working on has been finished, got the car off trailer and welded up the crack around the nearside front jacking point. Amazingly the metal cleaned up well and didn't need to plate, just stitched it back together.

Seat can now go back in and I can finally fit the new windows. Also need to fit the dash pod back in.

Been collecting parts for my turbo too, decided to lose the servo, so new master (also got a plastic reservoir clutch master because I'm tired of repeatedly cleaning the metal one that just scabs up within a month). Have a non-servo pedal box too, but the thought of climbing upside down into the driver footwell is currently what’s stopping me starting the conversion!

Need a new set of slicks for the racer, which may be the last set of Avon's I can get for it, seeing as they are closing at the end of the year. With pirelli also backing out of hillclmib soft compound, may need to move to 10" and Dunlop or Hoosier's after this season.

Obviously, all these bits cost money, so I'm offshore to the North Sea for a stint to top up the funds. Fingers crossed for some updates when I’m back.

Awards presentation at the weekend for last season. Got my mitts on the haul from last year, still can’t quite believe it!




e5tus

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Less than 24 hours before my departure to the North Sea, I got bumped off the helicopter as there was some more urgent works that took priority. Frustrating but not much I can do, shame it was 6 months in the planning down the drain, but did gain an unexpected afternoon in the workshop.

Got the revised dash pod installed, and it does the job for visibility of all the gauges.



Now all the hot works are complete, I could get the windows back in. One of my fellow competitors went to a bolt-in front screen last year and gave me his old polycarb front. Ours was quite badly scratched up. His was an ACW hardcoated one, and 0.6kg lighter than the one we removed. Win! Got the first rear in, but it was bloody cold and I couldn’t be arsed to do much more.



Once again used nylon fixings, they did well to break as weak links in the accident last year. Hopefully I’ll find some renewed enthusiasm and get the others underway shortly..


e5tus

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Afternoon all, spent a couple of days moping about last week due to the cancelled work trip. 6 months planning down the drain, but shit happens and as it warmed up a bit, I dragged my lazy ass into the workshop and got some shit done.

All new windows now in. Moving away from drivers slider saved a bit of weight, along with the windscreen savings there was a kilo to the good.





I’ll keep the plastic on for a couple of weeks until I’m ready to wash it all down, it’s so bloody static when it’s new, I’ve found it needs cleaning and plastic polish to protect.

Undecided if the current X livery is staying for this season, or I’m going to have a go at something else. Got lots of lifting corners on the crosses, the car cover then shares fluff with the vinyl and think the cover is currently creating more work than protection.

Got round to sorting the engine stabiliser. The crack is opposite side of a fillet welded T joint, so I’m assuming material failure from that, rather than shock or impact, but it’s been years since I did any NDT so might be talking shite.



Made up a clevis fork for the other end and mounted it to the existing reinforced turret. Nice to have the adjustability from the centre turnbuckle, the one the other side has both ends RH thread, so need to take it off to adjust, which is a pain in the arse.





I think I just have to refit the seat and harness and she’s ready for the season, unless I’m changing the livery again.


e5tus

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Managed to get everything that was left on the list done on the racer pre arrival of the second child.

Now that my daughter has arrived, I’ve been seeing how far I can push the number of events I’ll get away with this year. Got a few booked in, finally get to drive Gurston Down after years of not being able to make our club’s invited weekend. This year we have six invited events over three weekends and a new challenge trophy for the best four events. I’ve got two weekends for that in the diary and booked up. Loton in April again too and the first Wiscombe events go live next week.

Whilst on paternity leave, someone sent me a facebook marketplace advert for a GRP clubby front, about 3 miles from my house. Given the state of my bonnet, for £110 it was worth it just for the bonnet and always good to have a spare front…

Our front has been patched a few times and is very thick GRP in places. I got it down to 9.8kg when we got the car, but it has some box steel reinforcement glassed into the wings. The new uncut front is 5.4kg, so once arches and grill are opened up, will offer substantial savings. Bonnet is 2.7kg, ours is currently 3.3kg.

5kg saving off the bat for £110 ranks it very high on the cost per saving. Against all the changes I made to the turbo the other year, would have ranked it 3rd best saving.

So will keep with the current “livery” for now, but the new front offers a good opportunity to rethink the car’s appearance.


e5tus

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TURBO UPDATE:
My thought was to replace the T3 with the GT17 that came on the 998 engine that was in TT2. Save on space, weight and also lessen the damn lag.



The GT17 setup was cleverly arranged to fit without the need for bulkhead modifications (kudos to the twins, that’s a bloody good effort for a “down-the-back” arrangement), but the skewed fitment couldn’t use the usual fuel pump location for oil drain, instead used the speedo housing.

So, led me to thinking about options for alternative speedo, although I don’t need one for competition, but it is still road legal and always good to have. I looked at various solutions but was also looking at stainless manifolds so the option to return to normal drain location was also a possibility.

The current setup meant a fair whack of heat on the back of the block, I have the room for a turbo in the “standard” position, which should allow better heat management. So took some time looking at manifold options

Shopping list:
- Exhaust Manifold

Then the mission creep set in… If I replace the exhaust manifold, I should replace the inlet manifold, flange thicknesses to match etc etc

Shopping list:
- Exhaust Manifold
- Inlet Manifold



Ok, so a nice new set of manifolds, perfect. Have a GT17 and a spare too, excellent. This will work for the 998, then when I get back to a 1275 or bigger build, I can transfer the goodies. But wait, what’s this new Garrett GBC turbo series… Specific small bore turbo, interchangeable between the 17/20/22 sizes.

Shopping list:
- Exhaust Manifold
- Inlet Manifold
- Turbo

Guess I’ll be needing a turbo downpipe too… Shit got expensive quickly! This was last year, hence the reason for progress on the turbo grinding to a halt. But a recent delivery has turned up a solution for the above shopping list.





Some fannying about to do with oil in/out, but nothing major. Time to prep the engine bay for the return of an engine. Need to get round to the pedal box change, remaining interior still needs to come out to weld in the cage base plates anyway so should make that crap job a little easier without having to lie on the seat mounts!

Layered up last night and got down to the workshop. Finished the diff install and prepped the last bit of the speedo end of the box to go back on. Been nice to get a few hours tinkering in, sandwiched with walking in circles trying to get the newborn to sleep. Hopefully have a new deployment planned for the North Sea so I can earn some money to fund the season ahead.


minimole23

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Looks fantastic set up. Be interesting to see the power curve with the sparkly new turbo.

On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding


steve1275

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That looks superb! *Clapping*

'Where does the engine go?'


theoneeyedlizard

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Fantastic

In the 13's at last!.. Just


Yo-Han

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Great progress
I really like the pod; it's simple, elegant and funtional at the same time!

Just curious; what is the bennefit of a stainless exhaust manifold? I get it's less prone to rust (under heat wrapping), are there more advantages, like less heat radiation?

Dazed and Confused....


e5tus

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On 11th Mar, 2023 Yo-Han said:
Just curious; what is the bennefit of a stainless exhaust manifold? I get it's less prone to rust (under heat wrapping), are there more advantages, like less heat radiation?
A great question, and I'm sure it's been debated for years..

Properties wise, I think like-for-like stainless is heavier than steel, but you can get away with thinner wall section as you don't need the corrosion allowance for longevity. Could be wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me. Stainless has a lower thermal conductivity than carbon steel, so should mean less heat transfer, but this will be reduced if the thicknesses are not the same due to the previous point.

Material choice between steel or stainless as I see it, comes down to price and finish. Stainless is more expensive, but has the corrosion resistance and tart factor.

Could you use steel, yes, and the GT17 setup I have has used a tubular steel manifold for years. But it takes no time to look scabby.


e5tus

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Test day for the racer on Tuesday, got lucky with the weather and had a decent day.



Threw some old ACB10’s on the car, so as not to kill the slicks. Turned the offside front into a slick by the end of the day.

The track was damp first thing and grip was at an absolute minimum. Dad went out first, his first time driving the car in nearly a year following his shoulder rebuild. He fell back into the swing of things, and whilst most of the attendees were getting their cars ready he snagged 4 session out on track pretty much back-to-back. Happy with the feel of things and his shoulder taking the abuse, he handed over to me for a few stints.

The ACB’s are a good tyre, but compared to the slicks, there was practically no grip on the rear end so lift off oversteer was more present than usual. Bit of fun, but also forces you to adjust speed before corner and power through.

Had a small coolant leak in the afternoon, seems the cork gaskets either side of the thermostat sandwich plate had settled. I went for ARP bolts, I couldn’t source the 3” studs at the time of fitting, having just put the diff back together on the Turbo gearbox, I realised the long studs are the same as the diff housing, so have some long studs to go on. Prefer studs with studlock into the aluminium head than hulking on bolts.

Otherwise, the car was faultless, decent oil pressure on the button, water temp never above 80oC. Have a busy April with events, will try and keep the updates coming.


e5tus

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First event last weekend, Gurston Down. Despite being the closest hillclimb to me, first time I’ve got to drive it. Our club usually gets one invite per season, and I’ve not been able to make it before, but this year we are invited to three weekends across the year. Saturday was wet, quite good for me to learn the track.

I was 2 hundreths behind my dad (now back behind the wheel following his shoulder reconstruction last year) in first practice with 46.01. Found 2.5seconds into second practice which found me at the top of the order for our 10 person championship class. There was a fair few no shows due to weather, and with a limited field of 64, we had an extra practice run before lunch. Found another 6 tenths improvement, keeping me in front, but the R1 powered mini of Stu Lugger was hunting me down.

Timed run 1 and I got down to 42.22, Stu found 7 tenths on me and lead the class, with a second a half breathing room behind me. Final timed run, didn’t get a decent run out of the last corner, dropping time in the second half, a shame as I had my best launch of the day. The super soft cut wets are just phenomenal. Stu didn’t improve either, so the running order remained. Dad found a second to finish third just 7 tenths behind me.

Here's my fastest run in the wet, water coming in from the doors, windows, everywhere!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5vuIHVk5WE

A great day back in the car, despite the weather, some decent times. With better weather forecast for the Sunday, the existing class record of 41.27 was in sight. Great facilities at Gurston, with a restaurant and bar on site. Normal camping and parking in the fields was abandoned due to recent weather, but there was enough hardstanding available to make it work, albeit tight.

I wouldn’t go as far as saying the sun came out Sunday, but it wasn’t raining, and with a decent breeze, the track was mostly dried out.



The dry line at the start line was not quite there and the slicks were coming out of hibernation, the start on the first practice seemed like a lifetime just sat there spinning, but the run was clean and tidy, I was cautious though. I thought it had plenty of grip, but then my only datum was the wet, others were complaining about the drying conditions. 42.33, so pretty much where I left off from Saturday.

Second practice and the track was fully dry, sub 3 second 64’ and found 3-4 mph on the speed traps both down the hill into Hollow and up the hill across the line. Sub 40 second run, 39.95. Dad was also improving his times, with a 40.92 from his first practice of 43.60.

Again the event was running well, so we had an additional practice run before lunch, more improvement to 39.52, this time with dad right on my heals with 39.59. So we were well into new class record territory, but it only counts on a timed run, so all to play for.

After lunch, first timed run and Stu Lugger turned it up a notch in the R1 with a 38.37. I made a tenth improvement to 39.44, dad didn’t have the best middle sector and dropped the time to 39.94. Second timed run and again found some improvement with a 39.07, Stu was again 0.7 up the road on me, dad finding 39.60. One of the R53’s also dropped sub 40 with 39.78, which was very close to his PB that was set in mid summer last year, so they will be improving with track temp through the year.

Not much breathing room with the running group in our championship, 6 of us separated by a little over 2 seconds! Great group for the weekend, even with the weather on Saturday and wet feet, I had a great time. Happy to be back out in the car and 2nd place both days. Back here in July, looking forward to it.

Reviewing the footage, I can lift later for Hollow, or on the right day, not at all, could also brake later for Carousel, but easier said than done! Anyway, here’s my final run from Sunday, 39.07
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8w-lc_GZqw

Loton Park next, have an established time there from last season, let’s see what we can do.

Stu


Yo-Han

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Thanks for this reply, seems like some proper logic :)



On 13th Mar, 2023 e5tus said:
On 11th Mar, 2023 Yo-Han said:
Just curious; what is the bennefit of a stainless exhaust manifold? I get it's less prone to rust (under heat wrapping), are there more advantages, like less heat radiation?
A great question, and I'm sure it's been debated for years..

Properties wise, I think like-for-like stainless is heavier than steel, but you can get away with thinner wall section as you don't need the corrosion allowance for longevity. Could be wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me. Stainless has a lower thermal conductivity than carbon steel, so should mean less heat transfer, but this will be reduced if the thicknesses are not the same due to the previous point.

Material choice between steel or stainless as I see it, comes down to price and finish. Stainless is more expensive, but has the corrosion resistance and tart factor.

Could you use steel, yes, and the GT17 setup I have has used a tubular steel manifold for years. But it takes no time to look scabby.

Edited by Yo-Han on 10th Apr, 2023.

Dazed and Confused....


e5tus

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Once again we lucked out with decent Easter weather for Loton Park. We had good results last year when the car was fairly new to us, so hopeful for improvements. Despite the holiday traffic, we made good time and setup on Friday. Fresh overnight not far above freezing, but the morning was clear, dry and soon began to warm. Had a mixed batch with the mod prods and a couple of sports libre cars, including a spaceframed TT.



First practice, steady runs from both me and dad as we remembered the course. 64.38 for me and 65.08 for dad. I walked the course on the Friday night and got somewhat fixated on the two speed traps, looking at last years times we were only managing mid-sixties from Lake to Triangle, and mid-seventies up cedar straight, given Gurston last week was producing 78 down from the start and 80 up to the line, I knew the car had decent speed to it. The practice at Loton was 63 down and 75 up, but I was sure it would go 80 up the straight.

Second practice, and fixated on the speed trap, I had a great run in the bottom section, clean through keepers and through the gears up the hill, misjudged where the trap was and kept the power on too long, locking up all the way to Fallow and stalling in the process. Restarted and completed the course, amazingly only 69.42, but more importantly I’d gone through the trap at 81mph. Dad got a 63.57 so needed to keep my head next time.

With renewed focus to the braking zone after the speed trap, I cleaned up the run for first timed session with a 62.10. Dad got 63.27. Felt we had a bit more movement at the rear than usual, but were running the recommended Hard on front and usual front Softs on the rear, leaving the super softs at home.

Second timed run, pushed through the first section, a little bit hot into the right/left at keepers, needing to back off slightly which gave a little movement. Happy with a 61.59. Reported back about Keepers to my dad before his run, but maybe lost in translation… He went a bit gung-ho into the right, lifting before the left, which stepped the back out, back on the power but the car was already sideways… Cue the two wheel lift as the weight is all on the right hand side, like I suffered with at Harewood. Well, I’ll let the pictures do the talking… He was lucky!













Amazingly, he kept his foot in and fuelled with adrenalin, he topped the hill in 63.82. We had competition from Dave and Nick West again, along with another 16v mini, but kept just ahead of them all day. We weren’t eligible for the new top ten run-off they do, but Nick qualified and ended up with a run-off time exactly the same as my final run 61.59, earning him third in the run-off. The run-off is scored by times nearest the class record on the day, but good to know I had an equivalent pace.

Sunday was much the same, starting at 64.17, running down through the day, 61.68, 61.52 and finally 61.39. Just couldn’t find the 60 second runs of last year, but interestingly I was consistently faster in both speed traps, so corner speed was letting me down. Again, seemingly to be through tyre choice. Dad struggled in the morning with confidence in the car, finding it a bit tricky to link up a good run. He improved from a start a 68.40 down to 63.39 in the afternoon.

Throughout last season I heard regularly that I’d brought the wrong tyres to events. Being told that the longer hills (Loton, Harewood) should use the Hard compound on the front and move the soft to the rear, so that’s what I took. I should know by now that most things in motorsport are personal preference (tyre pressures, oil grade, geometry setup), and there is no recipe, but I’m definitely moving towards ditching the hards for the hills and just paying the price of additional wear on the longer hills with my “usual” soft and super soft compound selection.

Overall, a good result of 1st in class both days, and kept ahead of the 180hp competition, so happy with that, but I was annoyed with myself for falling into the trap of listening to others advice not trusting my own thoughts. Ah well, lesson learnt.

Here’s my fastest run of the weekend https://youtu.be/Jw0gseMBXTo

Wiscombe next, last event on the current tarmac before it gets resurfaced. Last event on the current tyres too before the fresh rubber goes on.


Nic

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Phwoar!!! That looked like an exciting moment for your dad.

Great result


e5tus

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Forgot to show this one from Sunday at Loton Park, stunning car, absolutely spotless. Rebuilt in a fresh shell that was destined for mighty minis, as the old car was written off after going end over end at a sprint.

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