Josh's turbo 1098cc carburetion sucks lets try EFI
Turbo Mini Forums

Get the crank key fixed, you'll need an accurate timing pulley for MS.

I use the MS3 with the MS3X expansion. It's my preferred solution to siamese port injection, but there are other cheaper ways of doing it with the MS2 but requires some additional boards and soldering. You should be able to use the MS3 without opening the case.

DIYAutotune do kits but don't attempt to put one together until you are competent at soldering PCBs.

I use that hall sensor for VSS and Cam and plan to use it for crank as well.

BUT you should walk before you try to run. Start with Megajolt.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

For the crank, if the keyway is goosed it usually means the pulley got loose somehow and will no longer be a tight fit on the crank tail. You need to have a good fitting pulley before spending money on repairing the keyway.
But if you have a good fitting pulley, yes, a proper repair, not loctite...

WRT the MS2/3 bit, first I would absolutely agree with Paul - don't think about using any "kit" unless you are competent (and confident) about soldering PCBs...

But if you are, don't dismiss the MS2....

MS3 might be an "out of the box" solution and more flexible than the MS2 - that is what progress is all about - but the MS2 can be a LOT cheaper and has code written specifically for siamese injection.

If you want staged siamese injection you will need an add-on board and will need to make a small modification to the daughterboard - this is done by lots of people who just want 4 channel sequential (non-siamese) injection, nothing particularly special about it.

And, because the add-on board does away with a lot of the standard parts you also have the option of buying a "partial" kit http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/pkit-me...l-kit-p-93.html and a case and source the remaining parts yourself.

With one more add-on board (for the crank/cam inputs) very little in the way of the full kit of parts are needed (only the bottom left and top right on this one of mine has the standard parts, the add-on boards are the two green ones).



But, as said, only if you are competent/confident with soldering.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Paul
After thinking some more ill actualy need the dampner ring cut for 36-1 tririger wheel for ms so shall have that and the key done to just to verafiy its 90 degrease before TDC right? Its a new pully and dampener the cooper s ones tow peace for bolt type

Im quite handy with the iron n solder so im keen to spend some time haveing a good go at it also add to the "i made that" kind of thing that fealing of doing it your self and it actualy working lol anyways so the ms3 kit can be added to quite easly to be thae same as said ms3x? End resolt im looking for is at some stage 5 port injection turbo ed well refined monster but for now the hif44 mappabl igniton custom side mount twin o2 sample chamber ( one good manifold rather than two) makeing tuneing easyer?

Is there a blank pcb for ms3x and parts list? I know they sell the case to slide it all in but theres a good electronics shop near by that i should find most componets at that is if i know what how manny to get and where to place them i have done a robot that finds its way throw a mase from a prats bag and blank pcb

I need to sort out the turbo choice too and figuer out my presure ratios and stuff so ivd read about stuff breifly and i think i need to chose the power i want and go for that im after sorta as much as i can get lol keepinv in mind this will be a road car so if i can get a reliable 165-190? How do i start my calcs to find VE and BSFC so on that are needed to size the turbo and have head work flowed to?
You say walk then run i do agree but one reason that leads me to geting ms3x is save buying stuff useing it for 6 months a year dumping that buying more stuff sort of thing i guss the crab will be my stepibg stone?

You need to understand the MS architecture.

The MS2 is a daughterboard that sits on a MS1 mainboard, V3.0 if you buy it in kit form. That's what you can see in Rod's picture on the left.

The MS3 is also a daughterboard that sits in the same socket replacing the MS2. The MS3X is an expansion board that connects to the MS3.

You can only buy the mainboard in kit form. The MS2, MS3 and MS3X come pre assembled.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Do NOT use those exhaust valves in a turbo engine. Get some 26.5mm from Minispares.

Also, a windage tray is overkill, but you've already got jets in the rods.

Edited by Vegard on 26th Nov, 2012.

vegard i witch valves are they? i cant find any 26.5mm ones ? you mean the turbo ones? AHU1976
i am not going with the tray or jets anymore

paul s
is there a guide explaining the functions and menu's? i have this thing that i like to jump in the deep end a bit lol how hard can it be to stay afloat i figure so long as the timing is some what correct and i glue my eyes to my o2 sensors all will be good no?

you use the ms3 with the expansion i believe that its that same as the ms3x one but that is build by a robot ? so if i got thease parts id be right to go

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasqu...-kit-p-398.html
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasqu...card-p-434.html
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasqu...case-p-441.html

the pcbs look different tho?

if thats all i need to make the ms3x then its worth the time to build it saves me $315aud that's a free wide-band o2 lol

i think from what im understanding that i should use the ecu like yours? as some day id like to go to proper efi and have the best afrs i can

You are missing the main board.

You need:

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasqu...case-p-419.html

and the MS3X :
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasqu...card-p-434.html

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

ohh duh.. thanks paul
not Manny things will be bought yet tho as id like to wait till the shop is done as they cant give me a price on the job yet apparently so im hanging out that its not too costly after the shop gives me the bill ill get the turbo and IC stuff so i can get moveing on that side of things for not tho i have been messing about with small stuff like swapping rubber brake lines for goodridge braided ones for a firmer peddle, changing the cheep chine rubber boot/dust cover things on my ball joints that are only 12months old, re doing my crappy remote to rod gear shifter adapter plate thing witch at the time was a just to get me going ill fix that properly later sort of thing, relocate the wiper motor to inside

http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Engi...classic/exhaust valves.aspx|Back to search

Vegard thanks mate what intake would you recommend?

http://minispares.com/product/Classic/C-AEG588.aspx ?

just had a thought whilst doing an oil change on the work ute today.. the filter (ryco Z68) looks the same as the one i run on the mini (ryco 418)but its longer.. so i checked and yep its the same from what i can see.. it spin's on the mini housing and the seal is the same size now my qustion is the longer one should have more filtering ability? ie pass a larger volume of oil before the internal bypass acetates? reason im looking at this is i will be unseeing a no bypass filter head i have looked to see what filter will fit and have no internal bypass but flow a lot of oil and cant find much at all jut wondering if anyone run a no bypass oil filter and housing ?

already have some bronz/mag/alu bullet ones waiting = ) didnt know the a ones where soft vs a+ ones the rim flow ones look grate but is it worth the cash? Also the s6 ones that med sell same deal bangfor buck? Surly the life span is less on the med s6 onges due to smaller contact valve to guide im also guessing the heat transfer is less to?

Edited by Turbo This.. on 27th Nov, 2012.

Yes :)

So thats yess the rimflow n S6 ones are worth the cash for a turbo build and yess the heat transfer and wear life is not so grate on the S6 ? Anyone had experince with any of them? Can a small bore turbo run flush and flat tops given the head has been pulled right out to 31cc for 9.5:1 or 32cc for 9.25:1 just an idear lol

edit just looked on meds web page under bespoke and seen that they can get up to 30cc ?

Edited by Turbo This.. on 28th Nov, 2012.

already have some bronz/mag/alu bullet ones waiting = ) didnt know the a ones where soft vs a+ ones the rim flow ones look grate but is it worth the cash?[/quote]

Possibly, who know?

well my replacement crank showed up today so hoping its in a useable concision..
the one i had was cracked half way around the journal and started to climb up the Webb by about half an inch! the shop said if i had drove it much longer id have two half's lol! that uv light is awsome shows up like dogs balls big white line at first it looked like a reflection of light across the radus haha

i have been walking past the mini a few times and lifting the bonnet off i keep saying i should put a big front mound radiator and charge cooler in with some alu boxing/air guide bits to force the air throw so what im getting at is.. dose anyone know anyone that's done this sort of thing with a fixed steel club man fronted mini ? there is plenty of room to do this i think so im keen to have a go also as far as cooler designs go whats best delta fin? tight fin pack lose fin pack? cheep or 5 times the price quality made?


im super keen to get the mini going again so im looking for stuff to do whilst the shop dose there bit.. witch wont be till next year they tell me = ( so yeah.. also im out of a job atm too so that makes things interestingly slow

Have a look at my build (1275gts) for front mount rad installation and ducting.

Nice build mate i think i will try do some alu ducting of some sort to fill the gaps between the coolers and body so the air has to pass throw rather than around my only concern is this could make a vacuum behind the coolers sucking crap up from the road?


i have been trying to do some calcs to find the best fitting turbo using garrets website under turbo tech but it dosent really give info like BSFC it just gives a guidance like .50 to .60 now would it be fine to use that or figure out what it really is? same for afr assuming that all builds differ for peak power i think i read somewhere that minis dont like afr mixed to well ? also VE how could i gauge that with out a flow bench?

so far im looking at the 2052 witch looks more efficient than the 1548 im working off 80% VE target 175hp and 0.46 BSFC AFR 11.5 22c air temp

well not much had been going on as im two states from the car for a month over Christmas so ive started restoring some wheels for the mini that i had a the parents place

so far i have bead blasted them this is what they look like.. next is eatch primer and gloss black then spin all the gutter rash off them one pops lathe witch will also take the over spray off in a nice clean line also i made a new steel wheel nut insert thingo with pops guidance he is very protective of his machinery one of them was missing

nice mate, they'll come up looking great with a re-paint and cleaning up.

what are they? what size?
so are you having a polished lip or repainting once the gutter-rash has gone?

thanks yeah i hope the come up near new there might be the odd mark as i don't want to take too much off to get that nice finish it will be a happy mix i think between strength and marks.. has any one had experience with this sort of thing?

i think they are Aunger Classic ? 12"x5" or 5.5"? i have a had a bit of a google but cant find much really..
they will be black insides and highly polished outer rim and outer flats i think that is/was original? like the last pic

I havent physically done it myself but a mate has cleaned wheels up, and it is a fine line between strength and marks.
Interesting wheels you have! They will look good painted. I actually think they look good after blasting!

me two braad trouble is time needed to get that finish running the both on a 10 minute duty cycle to reduce the effects on the poor compressor also id like to keep them original as passable