Josh's turbo 1098cc carburetion sucks lets try EFI
Turbo Mini Forums

ben ill have to pop by and see whats new

i think i might get lucky and the su needles arive today while im gone at work as i want to try just plain old 98 unleaded in there and see what happens with the stock BDD as you say it should be good for at least what 10-15 psi? on the old clunker metro T3

yeah the suction chamber moves free as can be

fuel bowl should be getting pressure as it holds boost for a second or two at 15-20 or it will hold at like 5-7 for basically as long as you want if you down at like 3500 rpm pulling up a hill

it seems to be the fuel demand of higher boost i think

ill try get a T, some line and a gauge on the feed line to the carb

so i drained the tanks and put 98 ULP in and all was going grate afrs where a lot better with the ULP so must have been a flow isue with the E85 anyways back on topic..

i forgot to take some ignition timing out..

it would have seen around 27 decrease at 15-17 pound on 12.5:1 stupid stupid stupid was fine for E85 but not ULP

so went for the overtake on the highway pulling past ready to merge back over and bam power loss and loads of smoke out the exhaust.. dam! i knew straight away it had a miss fire like a plug lead was off its puked a bunch of oil out the breather and yep no compression on number 4..

undecided if ill pop the head off with it in the car to see if the bore is usable or not i shut it off quick so guess it should be ok

if the bore is ok i might just whack a fresh piston in that hole and call it good but if the bores shit ill probably go with some 16V pistons and do the head swap

i guess ill figure something out for a temporary engine for now and just run it with like 5 pound on fully stock internals with the exception of a X pin diff

Blimey. That's a lot of timing for the compression and boost. RIP piston(s).

In the 13's at last!.. Just

EFI and Flexfuel...... The way forward.

totally agree gotta have the ECU do the thinking
one set of maps for 98 and one for E85 and then it can blend them to have it just work with what ever the dumb user puts in there..

ive made the call and it will be a K head and EFI but this will be something i sort out the correct way with info from guys that have done it and ill most likely buy beers for there hard work in figuring it out and me just duplicating it so that said ill be putting together a basic stock engine box and run that for now on stuff all boost say 5-7 pound or what ever the basic waste gate is just something thats safe and that moves the car more than a stock 1098 no point wasting rego n have it sit while i sort the real motor so whack something together and just run that at least i can drive it

still cant believe i forgot to pull some timing out when i changed fuels.. stupid fine for E85 not so ULP different burn and det limits

ill get the engine out tomorrow and see the damage and order some gaskets for the stoker do some cleaning and parts big digging to gather the parts ready

well this poped up for next to nothing...






came with an a series auto... good for not much.. also a mini matic body shell...

Wbats a mini matic?

well what ever the auto mini was.. thought it was called something like that

the body will be sorted and ill re spray it the auto will go back in it and ill most likely sell it to buy parts for the B16A2 likely buy a set of pistons for the 1098 and swap them out with a hone if the bores are not scored probably sell it with it in the car then do the b16 conversion

the way im looking at it is the b16 stock non turbo makes what the a series makes with a load work and boosted so to have a stock na motor that is on par with most 5 port turbos i think its a good way to go for reliability and if i want it can be boosted for a bit more also

well ive goten motavated and pulled the head

i brunt nomber 4 the norm.


so its getting a hone and a fresh set and then ill only run E85 and 18 pound as thats about all i can with 85 due to it sucking the bowl dry!

so ill just settle for that and enjoy a faster than stock mini while i work on the Honda powered mini at this stage it will be RWD but may be AWD if my mate can come threw with a first gen CRV full car that i can mesure up transfer the geometry to the mini not sure if it will be AWD or RWD but it will be a 100% track car and the clubby will be a weekend car that pokes along well enough to beat a R8 or other modern 8V cars in style

its been half a minute since the last waste of time trying to get it correct so lets try again for the 16th time possibly it might work out hey?

so the SU is at least for me to much guessing to get a profile that works so its in the bin

ive got the MS3X and cam crank angle jobbers nd most of the others to where i think EFI is just the way to go

so kinda want to still use the charge cooler but in a plenum sort of way not sure if it will be of use due to radiant heat but i think ill try it anyway not sure if having the bends at an angle will affect/bias air flow?

two positions may work but i think ill try the up front place to get the extra length in the runners what for the air charge ramming effects the bends in the uncut length are about the 480mm center line distance but ill need to chop them sort of close to the start of the bend to not fowl the fire wall n such










thinking i want to stay with using E85 fuel so that makes injector choice a bit hard defiantly need two per runner possibly something smaller for low speed then a big honker for mid to high?

with the E ill need 30-40% more than normal so perhaps 400 and 1600 not sure if having a big change like that would make it hard for the change over point?

im thinking the big single pulse method is best ?

sort of need to figure out the injector numbers to work out where they will go i think the best placement is super close to the head face and vertical ie on top or under or both so long as then don't point to one cylinder or the other

once i know that ill have a try at spinning some injector bosses out to weld in

well a little progress i changed the layout a little

getting the dip stick out will be interesting!!









what type of fuel reg do most use? the malpassi ones? or should i get a new one more suited to efi

ordered a shinny new turbo and some sc10 1" normal bore tube bends

a little progress and some sloppy fabrication

not sure if the clutch slave will be ok or not?
figure there should be enough steel to disperse the heat without melting or making the seals go hard hopefully not boil the fluid ether ill probably try to wrap that bit but i guess the only way to know is to try it

quite hard to get past the steady with a full bulkhead and pre vert slave if there was more space id have brought three tube all the way to the turbo hence trying to take up a bunch of length for the center branch and to join the outer before passing the steady whilst trying to copy the lcb type headers that work well

probably going to do a hood exit dump but still wanted to keep space below the steady to allow for a proper exhaust if the fumes are to much or if the cops make me
i wanted to keep well away from the intake ports/runners to give flexibility for different manifolds and injectors dunno if it will be any good or not

thinking i might move the injectors to be dead square with the head and on center of the port but i need to check if the bulkhead is in the way

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/photo/fullsize/3913/

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/photo/fullsize/3914/

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Splendid solution to the IC.

You could use the later verto type slave arrangement. This hs the slave mounted on a bracket on the side of the 'wok'.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

i hope heat soak isnt to bad with the big alu mass there but we will find out i guess

do i need to change the flywheel and all that clutch biliousness or can i mis match the pre vert flywheel and clutch with the different arm and slave location?

i guess next is to get the 2x 1"nom bore tubes into the 40mm flange in some kind of smooth ish transition

not sure if the turbo should have an extra support or if its ok to hang off the manifold ?

might be time to get the engine back into the car soon hopefully it still fits..

slow progress.....
flange is on there for good now welded both sides and shaped nicely with the burr bit in the die grinder should be plenty good
although i do need to slow down and be more patient with the tig.. better prep and more cleanliness you can see when im getting in a rush and when its all going ok ish by the consistency or lack of in some places haha



i think the next things to chose from the to do list are

fuel lines at least check them perhaps replace the steel for copper

cut the inner gard open so the stock rad can vent as it normally would make up a shroud so the hot air goes out of the bay into the arch

make a small hedder tank for IC with pump directly below to insure no air and good prime each time the pump is turned on

mount new fuel reg and drill tap post turbo/pre throttle body alu tube for ref line will do once engine is in car

going to try a 1:3 rate on the reg (its adjustable from 1:1 to about 1:10) think ill try base pressure around 60psi then 12psi boost (think that's the the gate setting) makes fuel pressure rise 36psi so 96psi rail pressure when on boost now ill try different base pressures to see what the pulse with is and also need to look up the recommended min pressure for a good spray pattern

finish getting the cage in and lined up straight weld base boxes into car look for another set of doors that dont have pockets as my doors are in grate shape and dont want to hack them up rather find a different pair to hack or go for some FG ones or something

Edited by Turbo This.. on 18th Nov, 2017.

little progress

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Looking good mate

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

well it holds 120PSI and i didnt cop a shower

might drill a hole for a roll pin on each side so the rail cant twist

next thing on the list it the turbo drain

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got the engine in this arvo
once it was sitting down on the mounts i looked at it and could see the intake was really high well above the wheel arch on each side
so promptly whacked the bonnet on and you would not believe it it bloody fit with 10-15mm air gap!!
haha i was convinced it was getting a scoop once i seen it in the bay

mind the stock look in not there as the bonnet is raised at the rea how ever i think it may be possible to lower it about half the current height

so few bits from the speed shop hose bits n fittings few bolts from the industrial suppler and time following wiring diagrams

looks like the dump pipe will have to be ether out the bonnet or i take the long way out into the arch then down and out the side or continue under the car to run out the back i feel like its out the hood for now and then fuss with it later

im really not feeling confident about the ecu and mapping feel like its going to be a big big hill to climb over

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well im a goof think ive put the selectors arse over tit its stuck in neutral/reverse

not sure what else it could be ive disconnected the rod and the input will only go in and out not roll to the side so somethings missing or not stacket on the top hat correctly at a guess not sure what else could cause it

ill keep it in for now i want to get the rest done in case ive goofed something else

possibly the de tent sleeve and ball n spring on the side cover will cheek that tomorrow after the ride

not the sleeve or ball and spring all looks ok from looking in the side cover so guess its how i assembled the forks o well once its out and apart ill see it and hopefully never mess it up again..

did get something semi done need a rubber mount down low in the arch and some O2 chambers just want to pick up some SS tube

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thinking ill get into the spaghetti tonight and over the w/e and hopefully give it start

run new hard lines inside the car old ones looked nasty

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