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Nick
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any guesses whats caused that???
there's no wear on the backplate, the triangle thing over the cam or the bolts that hold that on....i'm really fecking confused by it.

at least i know where all the swarf came from thats killed me oil pump though!

On 20th Oct, 2015 Tom Fenton said:

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Tom Fenton
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It would be the bolts that hold the cam plate on I would have guessed, but you say there is no wear on them?? Double check? And was the cam endfloat OK??


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
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BENROSS

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if there is no wear on the parts you described budd

then it must have picked some other engine or g/box peice up??????

you must FIND IT to be sure!






andeh

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i had clearance problems with the cam retaining plate bolts, design flaw afaik.

edit: i only noticed that it was fouling when i did the cam nut up after timing it in, tried to turn it over and it was jammed. As this was the only thing i changed (re-did timing with engine in car) i paid more attention to it and found that the sprocket clamped itself onto the retaining plate bolts.

Edited by andeh on 7th Jun, 2005.

I've seen the future and tbh its Pie


Nick
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had a closer look at all the fixing bolts etc, and its been catching on one of the cam plate bolts. feckin things.

gonna see if i can get a few countersunk bolts like the ones you use on the backplate when you fit a duplex.

anyone know what thread they are?

going to have to clean up that timing wheel with the dremel now so i can re-use it...at least it'll be a bit lighter..lol *happy*

On 20th Oct, 2015 Tom Fenton said:

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turbodave16v
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Personally - I'd machine the pulley - Fit and forget solution!

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
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Tom Fenton
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Bud the bolts are 1/4" UNF. A good source of countersunk screws would be the ones that hold on the rear brake drums on the late type spacer drums! You want 1/4" UNF by approx 3/4" long, have a measure though, that is just a guess by me. Also, countersinking the holes is not a great solution, as the cam location plate has slightly oversized holes to allow it to move SLIGHTLY before it bolts up tight. By countersinking them it will only then bolt up in one place. As Dave says, best way to do it is m/c a little off the area in question. The other thing you could do is machine a little 'depth' off the bolt heads also?

But to be honest I would also make sure your endfloat is right, the bolt heads should not (and do not) normally catch the pulley?

Edited by Tom Fenton on 7th Jun, 2005.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Nick
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why didnt i think of just machining the pulley instead of the bolts...d'oh

only problem i can see is that becasue its an adjustable one, the scoring is right across the join where the 2 pieces meet. will see if it will come apart in a bit, if it will then i'll grind it down a bit. if not then i'm fucked cos i cant afford another £60 at the minute!

On 20th Oct, 2015 Tom Fenton said:

Well here is the news, you are not welcome here, FUCK OFF.


turbodave16v
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If you put it on a lathe as an assembly, and just flash off the damage, it'll be good as new (but better, in that it'll fit *wink*

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



Nick
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cool, i was hoping it'd work like that.

best pop to me local engine place tomorrow then and see if they can do it there for me.

cheers dudes :)

On 20th Oct, 2015 Tom Fenton said:

Well here is the news, you are not welcome here, FUCK OFF.

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