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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > How to put the hole in the head for bypass hose

topcat

318 Posts
Member #: 9408
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Tiptree, Essex

Hi all, I have a bypass hose which I will be using, just wondering how to put the hole in the end of the head? Being on the end of the head is it possible to do with a mill?

www.topcatcustom.co.uk


Rod S

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5988 Posts
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Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

Personally I would just mill a spot face (flat area) then drill/tap.

Two things to bear in mind,

1 - if you use the genuine Leyland/Rover stub it is the weird non-standard thread size same as the crank tail - taps are expensive.....

2 - where the hole enters the head casting waterway there is very little space before the other side of the casting so a normal taper tap may not fully cut the thread before it hits the other side and stops....


EDIT - I presume you are talking about the normal bypass connection, not dry decking or similar ???

Edited by Rod S on 17th Dec, 2012.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


apbellamy

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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

My head had a plastic bung in the hole for the bypass takeoff.

For dry deck ports, I believe Carl did mine on the mill. I now have a pillar drill with a rotating table, so could do it on there in theory.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


topcat

318 Posts
Member #: 9408
Senior Member

Tiptree, Essex

Sorry I meant dry deck type bypass hose, the big one around 1" diameter!

I have a mill but not sure how I would hold a head on end as it would be a long way sticking up past a 90° angle block!

www.topcatcustom.co.uk


ado15

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Or you could fit the spacer under the thermostat housing and plumb it to the bottom hose. Does exactly the same as the little bypass hose, just a slightly longer route.

Sorry, just re-read your last post......

Edited by ado15 on 18th Dec, 2012.

Steve
DSN Classics Ltd
www.dsnclassics.co.uk


MikeRace

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#1 Basshunter Fan

Force Racing ICT Dept Manager Miglia Turbo Am frum Yokshyer tha noes!

Angle Grinder, get it nice and flat, 1" hole cutter. Then use RTV!

Piece of Piss.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/


Tom Fenton
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On 18th Dec, 2012 MikeRace said:
Angle Grinder, get it nice and flat, 1" hole cutter. Then use RTV!

Piece of Piss.


Copyright 2012 Tin Shed Engineering.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


MikeRace

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#1 Basshunter Fan

Force Racing ICT Dept Manager Miglia Turbo Am frum Yokshyer tha noes!

Ahem, mine hasnt leaked yet lol

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/


MikeRace

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6549 Posts
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#1 Basshunter Fan

Force Racing ICT Dept Manager Miglia Turbo Am frum Yokshyer tha noes!

The head that is not the tin shed...That leaks lol

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/


topcat

318 Posts
Member #: 9408
Senior Member

Tiptree, Essex

I guess I could side mill a flat on the end of the head, then drill through to 25mm by hand or on a pillar drill, it's only got to be watertight after all!

www.topcatcustom.co.uk


Amp

432 Posts
Member #: 7856
Senior Member

Essex

On mine I clamped it on a 45 degree angle block and rotated the head 45 degrees, used an end mill to create a flat (granted I then flattened more than I wanted), and then drilled it in a pillar drill with a rotating bed!

I haven't tested it yet, but it looks alright!

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