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charlieb150

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brighton

ive tryed searching be can not find a definate answer

@1500 cold i have 55-60psi , hot i have 25- 35psi
maybe a bit more
@3000 crusing i have after a long run 60miles at a constant 65 miles a hour 45psi ish

thanks charlie


charlieb150

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brighton

im running 10-40 oil


BENROSS

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Resident Cylinder Head Modifier

Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

yes acceptable, maybe a shade of bearing wear nothing to worry about, use 20/50 oil and drop in there a tin 500ml of STP grorilla snot

oil in and A series transverse engine gets very tired after 1500 miles and 3000 miles its well tired, your oil pressure will drop around 50% at 3000 miles

in my experience!






charlieb150

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brighton

ok thanks benross im due to be changing it at work this weekend any specific oil millers 20w50?


BENROSS

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Resident Cylinder Head Modifier

Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

any 20/50 oil with an AIP spec wrote on the can

if you can afford it get a synthetic 20/50 or semi synthetic, other than that mineral oil

other peeps may say use super thin snake oil its the best .....bla bla bla
their engines are long dead, dont forget the oil filter also






robert

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uranus

a slightly different experience for me , i have been using 10/40 for around 6 years in my turbo motor , i also get around 60 psi cold tickover ,35 psi hot .tickover ...max hot oil pressure 50 psi ,my engine aitnt dead yet .

oh ,and its a reasonaby high output one that gets thrashed to death on the drag track too.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Brett

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Doncaster, South Yorkshire

i have had oil pressures much lower than that and it lasted long enough

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


Evoderby

224 Posts
Member #: 9987
Senior Member

Amsterdam




On 17th Dec, 2012 charlieb150 said:
ive tryed searching be can not find a definate answer

@1500 cold i have 55-60psi , hot i have 25- 35psi
maybe a bit more
@3000 crusing i have after a long run 60miles at a constant 65 miles a hour 45psi ish

thanks charlie


As a rule of thumb, in order to be safe an engine needs 0.7 Bar / 10 psi of oil pressure per 1000RPM,
i.e. 50 psi @ 5000rpm etc.

The higher your oil's (warm) viscosity the higher the oil pressure. In sprint engines they tend to choose oil viscosity as close as possible to match the 10psi x 1000RPM as to not loose power through unecessary losses in driving the oil pump.

In endurance engines you tend to add a normal running safety margin to allow for untypical high oil temps (oil cooler air feed blocked by debris) a thing called Oil Shear Stability and fuel dilution.

Shear stability is a measure of the extent at which an oil is able to maintain its viscosity (as printed on the container) under stress. It's not uncommon for a W40 oil to measure W25 after 5000miles of use. Full synthetics (POA/Esters) offer much higher shear stability than mineral oils. Especially important on a mini since the oil is constantly minced to death by the transmission.

Another important property of oil is its barrier lubricant additives. Especially on a mechanical valve train A-series push rod engine this becomes apparent. The most common barriers are zinc and phosphor also known as ZDDP package.

Guess what, ZDDP reduces catalytic converter live....therefore is much reduced in high/modern API spec oils. Do a google search on ZDDP and cam bucket failure and you'll get the idea :(

A good ZDDP package (>1200ppm) can be found in many racing oils, I favour Castrol TSW / Edge 10W60 as it has enough detergents to satisfy BMW M in its ability to attain reasonable oil change intervals. There are also some good motorcycle oils out there like Mobil 1 V-twin that have high enough ZDDP levels. Torco and Redline also fit our needs. I'm sure there will be others still.

A final piece in the puzzle is fuel dilution. Especially on old school turbo engines running rich mixtures to aid cooling this can be an important factor to account for.

So in short, the pressures you see are plenty safe.....just make sure you use sensible oil change intervals to account for viscosity loss and fuel dilution, and if you hate grinding cams / buckets into shrapnel make sure your oil has the right ZDDP level!

Cheers,

Evoderby







MikeRace

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Force Racing ICT Dept Manager Miglia Turbo Am frum Yokshyer tha noes!

Are you a salesman for an oil company?


On 18th Dec, 2012 Evoderby said:



On 17th Dec, 2012 charlieb150 said:
ive tryed searching be can not find a definate answer

@1500 cold i have 55-60psi , hot i have 25- 35psi
maybe a bit more
@3000 crusing i have after a long run 60miles at a constant 65 miles a hour 45psi ish

thanks charlie


As a rule of thumb, in order to be safe an engine needs 0.7 Bar / 10 psi of oil pressure per 1000RPM,
i.e. 50 psi @ 5000rpm etc.

The higher your oil's (warm) viscosity the higher the oil pressure. In sprint engines they tend to choose oil viscosity as close as possible to match the 10psi x 1000RPM as to not loose power through unecessary losses in driving the oil pump.

In endurance engines you tend to add a normal running safety margin to allow for untypical high oil temps (oil cooler air feed blocked by debris) a thing called Oil Shear Stability and fuel dilution.

Shear stability is a measure of the extent at which an oil is able to maintain its viscosity (as printed on the container) under stress. It's not uncommon for a W40 oil to measure W25 after 5000miles of use. Full synthetics (POA/Esters) offer much higher shear stability than mineral oils. Especially important on a mini since the oil is constantly minced to death by the transmission.

Another important property of oil is its barrier lubricant additives. Especially on a mechanical valve train A-series push rod engine this becomes apparent. The most common barriers are zinc and phosphor also known as ZDDP package.

Guess what, ZDDP reduces catalytic converter live....therefore is much reduced in high/modern API spec oils. Do a google search on ZDDP and cam bucket failure and you'll get the idea :(

A good ZDDP package (>1200ppm) can be found in many racing oils, I favour Castrol TSW / Edge 10W60 as it has enough detergents to satisfy BMW M in its ability to attain reasonable oil change intervals. There are also some good motorcycle oils out there like Mobil 1 V-twin that have high enough ZDDP levels. Torco and Redline also fit our needs. I'm sure there will be others still.

A final piece in the puzzle is fuel dilution. Especially on old school turbo engines running rich mixtures to aid cooling this can be an important factor to account for.

So in short, the pressures you see are plenty safe.....just make sure you use sensible oil change intervals to account for viscosity loss and fuel dilution, and if you hate grinding cams / buckets into shrapnel make sure your oil has the right ZDDP level!

Cheers,

Evoderby






1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/


John

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Mongo

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If he is he isn't a very good one cos he hasn't tried to sell you any *wink*

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.


charlieb150

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brighton

well i can get 10w40 castrol semi / fully synthetic oil for litrally nothing lol from work *wink*

Edited by charlieb150 on 18th Dec, 2012.


Evoderby

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Senior Member

Amsterdam

<<Are you a salesman for an oil company?>>

Indeed, I'm a bit short on my year targets, so trying to activate the very significantly sized mini community into buying my oil:

www.sensilube.nl

*wink*


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

LOL!!

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



BENROSS

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Resident Cylinder Head Modifier

Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

thats a nice cut and paste Mike. ..lmao.

Robert, snake oil, is not 10/40 snake oil is much less like 5/10 etc .. .. which some peeps run surprisingly. !






Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook




On 18th Dec, 2012 robert said:
a slightly different experience for me , i have been using 10/40 for around 6 years in my turbo motor , i also get around 60 psi cold tickover ,35 psi hot .tickover ...max hot oil pressure 50 psi ,my engine aitnt dead yet .

oh ,and its a reasonaby high output one that gets thrashed to death on the drag track too.


I'd like to add that it is not the engine that suffers from thin oil, it is the gearbox, but I know robert has taken steps in the choice of oils to overcome that.

This has always been the biggest problem with the transverse A series engine. The gearbox needs a real thick gloopy oil, but the engine needs a really thin "snake oil" haha

I would personally use a fully synthetic 10w40 shared gearbox wet clutch motorcycle oil.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook




On 18th Dec, 2012 MikeRace said:
Are you a salesman for an oil company?


On 18th Dec, 2012 Evoderby said:



On 17th Dec, 2012 charlieb150 said:
ive tryed searching be can not find a definate answer

@1500 cold i have 55-60psi , hot i have 25- 35psi
maybe a bit more
@3000 crusing i have after a long run 60miles at a constant 65 miles a hour 45psi ish

thanks charlie


As a rule of thumb, in order to be safe an engine needs 0.7 Bar / 10 psi of oil pressure per 1000RPM,
i.e. 50 psi @ 5000rpm etc.

The higher your oil's (warm) viscosity the higher the oil pressure. In sprint engines they tend to choose oil viscosity as close as possible to match the 10psi x 1000RPM as to not loose power through unecessary losses in driving the oil pump.

In endurance engines you tend to add a normal running safety margin to allow for untypical high oil temps (oil cooler air feed blocked by debris) a thing called Oil Shear Stability and fuel dilution.

Shear stability is a measure of the extent at which an oil is able to maintain its viscosity (as printed on the container) under stress. It's not uncommon for a W40 oil to measure W25 after 5000miles of use. Full synthetics (POA/Esters) offer much higher shear stability than mineral oils. Especially important on a mini since the oil is constantly minced to death by the transmission.

Another important property of oil is its barrier lubricant additives. Especially on a mechanical valve train A-series push rod engine this becomes apparent. The most common barriers are zinc and phosphor also known as ZDDP package.

Guess what, ZDDP reduces catalytic converter live....therefore is much reduced in high/modern API spec oils. Do a google search on ZDDP and cam bucket failure and you'll get the idea :(

A good ZDDP package (>1200ppm) can be found in many racing oils, I favour Castrol TSW / Edge 10W60 as it has enough detergents to satisfy BMW M in its ability to attain reasonable oil change intervals. There are also some good motorcycle oils out there like Mobil 1 V-twin that have high enough ZDDP levels. Torco and Redline also fit our needs. I'm sure there will be others still.

A final piece in the puzzle is fuel dilution. Especially on old school turbo engines running rich mixtures to aid cooling this can be an important factor to account for.

So in short, the pressures you see are plenty safe.....just make sure you use sensible oil change intervals to account for viscosity loss and fuel dilution, and if you hate grinding cams / buckets into shrapnel make sure your oil has the right ZDDP level!

Cheers,

Evoderby






Probibly. There was a troll on many of the forums a couple of years back marketing for Opie Oils

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook




On 18th Dec, 2012 charlieb150 said:
well i can get 10w40 castrol semi / fully synthetic oil for litrally nothing lol from work *wink*


the important thing to take from all that jargon above is the ZZDP levels in the castrol oil you are using will likely not be up to the standard required by your 60 year old design engine, despite any of the fancy sales banter you find on the side of all oil cans these days.

As a general rule If it has an API specification above F, its no good. That said, Millers and Penrite manufacture oils specifically for the Transverse A series engine that are not APi rated

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


tadge44

3006 Posts
Member #: 2500
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Buckinghamshire

My inline A series seems to like 10/40 semi synthetic and gets a thorough thrashing most of the time. Oil pressure is 70psi cold.40psi hot at 3000rpm with 20psi at tickover, hot.
I used to worry about it being a bit low but it never gets any worse and I have enough confidence to use the car for extended journeys (1000 miles in a weekend) Same engine now for 2 years which is a record for me.


Turbo This..

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Previously josh4444

Australia, brisbane

i run this stuff its a bit noisy in the box tho.. its 10w40 full syn

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?...id_products=277


Chalkie

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Northamptonshire.

You can run 15w 40 Diesel oil that works fine :] can't remember pressures but cleaned up the inside of the moggie engine good once every 3 servies it gose in for 3000 miles so not blown yet and has run on 10 40 aswell (both had molyslip) IMO worked fine


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

I am still skeptical about using Diesel engine oils since mostly they use a high level of detergents. These oils and their addative packages are designed to run at lower cylinder temperatures of the diesel engine.

That is not to say there are not diesel engine oils that can be used. It is all in the specification. If the oil is API classified as a 'C' only, it os for use in a diesel engine only. If it is API 'S' it is for a petrol engine only, but these days oils can be classified as both, in which case its either or.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Chalkie

1909 Posts
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Northamptonshire.

It dose help clean the crap out that some ouls leave behid its personal prefence aslong none these silly 0w 30's go in can't see an issue

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