Rustproofing
Turbo Mini Forums

Hello all, went in the garage today after too long to find my lovely etch primed roof covered in rust spots! My plan was to slowly move over the whole shell taking the paint off and priming it, due to work/time/money/new baby constraints it'll probably spend a fair bit of time without a proper coat of paint. Any ideas on what the best way to treat bare metal against rust is? Cheers, Mat

apparently epoxy primer is the best stuff to use as it does not absorb moisture unlike other primers. i myself have never used it, but plan to try it on brothers mini.

I was under the impression that most primers are porous, so are not a particularly good rust preventative on their own. If doing one panel at a time over a long period of time, prime it, put a coat or 2 of colour on, then when it's all done, flat it all back to key it and paint the whole car.

Edited by topcat on 2nd Feb, 2013.

www.topcatcustom.co.uk

Had the same problem... Went out to my lovely primed engine bay yesterday (after a month or so) and spots of rust were coming through! Back to the drawing board....

I did read about the brush-on rustproofers, hammerite kurust etc, but don't know if they're any good to have a top coat over them?

Brush on rust treatments are snake oil.

For starters get a dehumidifier in your garage. It won't cure the problem, but it will take a lot of moisture out of the air.

I use zinga paint. Dont now if it is availably there but it closses of from the air and really works but needs to be fully rustfree. I even spray it in the hollow parts and use it as a base coat for paint. ( there are different tipes like zinga galva and zinga alufer.... some good for basecoat some not)
But it is the best i have came allong with. Needs to be sprayed on though because every new layer you do makes the undercoat a bit weak so it can blend in with eachother making one thick coat instead of having different layers on top of each other. If you bruch it and you have used galva firtst and then alu ( needs alu for paint to attached) you would mix it up.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

I use zinga paint. Dont now if it is availably there but it closses of from the air and really works but needs to be fully rustfree. I even spray it in the hollow parts and use it as a base coat for paint. ( there are different tipes like zinga galva and zinga alufer.... some good for basecoat some not)
But it is the best i have came allong with. Needs to be sprayed on though because every new layer you do makes the undercoat a bit weak so it can blend in with eachother making one thick coat instead of having different layers on top of each other. If you bruch it and you have used galva firtst and then alu ( needs alu for paint to attached) you would mix it up.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

I would still look in to the 2k epoxy route, from what I have read via google its the bees knees. The when its all finished you can put your filler on top. seam sealer and anything else then 2k hi build on top, flat off, top coat job done

I'll look into all of those, thank you! I'll start by buying more bloody stripping discs...

one thing i learned is never ever to use accid to remove paint and filler. i had to cut out the plate where i used it because it didnt stop rusting annymore. i had sandblasted to bare metal 2 times rust kept comming in to it.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

I tried all that rust proofing shite too.. Kurust.. Pants!!

I'm using bitumen discs in the grinder to take the paint off, they're a bit messy but very quick.