Pre verto clutch problems - difficult to select 1st, 2nd reverse.
Turbo Mini Forums

I have been having come problems with my pre verto clutch setup over the last few days.

I built the clutch up correctly,(minisport ultralight flywheel, minispares 5 finger paddle clutch, ultralight backplate, grey diaphtagm) I have .7mm machined off the backplate legs, and am using 3 drive straps per leg.

A few days ago there was no clutch at all the pedal was soft. We bled the system, the arm was moving as it should. We stripped the wok off to find that the plunger, pin and arm were all badly worn.

I ordered the uprated minispares set (plunger, arm, pin). Fitted these with the engine insitu which was a bit of a pain. The clutch felt better, but the pedal still travelled half of its travel (moving the clutch arm also) but not actually disengaging the clutch. The lower half of the pedal was hard as expected with the grey diaphragm and did seem to disengage the clutch.

All has been adjusted up as per the metro heynes. It didn’t seem right to me to have the first half of the pedal travel doing nothing.

We got the engine running, but it doesn’t like to go into 1st, 2nd and reverse.

It seems that this is a clutch based problem, I did rebuild the gearbox, selectors etc were fine.

The slave is also new. There is good arm travel

The arm has good travel, but it seems that the clutch doesn’t fully disengage to allow 1st, 2nd selection.

Has anyone else had this problem?

I plan to back the stop nuts off a fraction, re bleed the system, and probably lengthen the arm from the slave to the arm top.

Is there anything basic that I might be overlooking here?

Cheers, Dan

don't back the nuts off, set them up as per the haynes. i reckon extending the arm will solve it personally, did on mine.

for some reason though i think 9 drive straps might be too much with that amount ground off the lugs. I know i run 6 straps with a lug height of 23.5mm and with a single grey and a rally plate it holds 200lb/ft with no issues.

for fook sake dan dont extend the the arm which goes inside the cylinder, your on the wrong track and it will only end in tears with fooked thrusts and crank , i have seen it many times. ..... anyway............. in short in full.................

is the clevis pins new the 2 of them in the wok and the arm top the one that goes in the slave ?

is the arm new and not worn at the bottom tit where it pivots ?

adjust the small stop nut half way down the wok so there is a gap of 0.5mm with no engagement of the pedal........ ..

.now

if the above checks out, press the pedal make sure the slave cylinder come all the way out, if it does keep it pressed and adjust the large 2 stop nuts so there is a gap of 1.5mm between the nut and the wok lock it off .......... now if everytings ok internally it should work fine!

recheck the slave to make sure it comes all way out, if it dont and the master cylinder is old .............. now! thats you problem dan

keep us posted buddy

cheers nick and steve.

im in work all weekend but should get chance to take a look at this at the start of next week.

to be honnest it was great to hear it fire up and idles nicely, definately a noticable diference on ide between the ph2 and sw5.

going to get this clutch sorted hopefully on tuesday ish if i get a chance. will keep you posted on this and let you know how i get on.

steve the plunger/arm/pin are brand new, the minispares uprated items, they have great reviews on here so they should be spot on.

cheers again, dan

also steve, the clevis at the top of the arm is not new, it has no wear at all. the lower one is new though

go through it like we said dan, to the letter let us know .... will be a simple fix is my guess as long as there has been no internal damage due to incorrect adjustment .. etc..?

Flat ball?

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

adjust the small stop nut half way down the wok so there is a gap of 0.5mm with no engagement of the pedal........ ..

- steve, is this with the spring on? is it with the arm where it sits, or pulled away from the engine/towards the inner wing?

cheers, dan

In some cases, everything can be new and you'll never gt it right without extending the rod into the slave.

It's all to do with how far on the crank the flywheel is. and how much crank end float you have.

Do everything Steve says first though.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

I've had to put a longer rod into mine and that's all brand new. fooking heavy though!

Andy do you run the med arm?

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Yes, the MED arm. From reading Nicks comments, I might need to remove one of the straps from each lug as I have 3 on and only had 1mm of the lugs.

dan take the spring off to set the adjustment buddy

Cheers for the input chaps. i have read that others have had to extend the slave arm but will try all steve says first.
I will do it with the spring off steve. Just to clarify do i do this with the arm as it sits or with it pulled towards the inner wing? Cheers, dan

don't adjust it to a 1.5mm gap without the pedal being down, that'll be way too close won't it?


easiest thing to try is to drop a spare manifold nut into the slave to space out the push rod temporarily, then re-adjust the clutch as per haynes. Should only take 10 mins.

adjusted as you state steve, its spot on now. thanks for that i really appreciate it. it now runs really nicely. got to get some coolant in the system, plus a few other jobs, but hope to have it up and on the rollers in a few weeks. thanks a lot again