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Home > Show Us Yours! > Minus 7 port turbo (winter weight loss)

jonny f

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2008 Posts
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Dorking

A good amount of progress today, engine in place, some heat mat for the mani, brake hose clearance sorted, pedal box set up roughly, dash rail cut, gear linkage, tank, battery box, seat, all fitted and some spreaders made up for the front subby rear mounts.






Tupers

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324 Posts
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South Devon

Looks very tidy indeed, you might need a little more camber on the front though. *tongue*


jonny f

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Dorking

I know! Bit to positive....


Rob Gavin

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Glasgow

looking great; I'm assuming you won't be running a mechanical pump though?


jonny f

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Dorking




On 30th Apr, 2014 Rob Gavin said:
looking great; I'm assuming you won't be running a mechanical pump though?

Thank you.

On this engine, yes. Is it not the done thing? Engine only puts out 80-90bhp. Seemed to cope when it ran in my old car.

I won't on the turbo engine.


Rob Gavin

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Glasgow

that makes sense now


jonny f

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Dorking

I just want the car on the road so I'm leaving the turbo engine for now and using this.

Finish the turbo in the winter.


Billus89

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359 Posts
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Herefordshire

Really like this build. Some great work taking place here


Rob Gavin

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Glasgow


I know what you mean

On 30th Apr, 2014 jonny f said:
I just want the car on the road so I'm leaving the turbo engine for now and using this.

Finish the turbo in the winter.


bakker110

312 Posts
Member #: 9367
Senior Member

Derby

I was looking at those wilwood pedal boxes. Which one is that?


jonny f

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Dorking

On 1st May, 2014 bakker110 said:
I was looking at those wilwood pedal boxes. Which one is that?


It's this one.

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info....oducts_id=15586

It's the same as the one minitec provide in there Honda engine kits. They use a thick plate to spread the load in a standard shell.


jonny f

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Dorking

Got some more done yesterday.

Got all the spreader bits painted and baked.



Lots of bits fitted in the bay.



As the body is a lot lower clearance becomes a problem the bottom hose is very tight, had to move the brake hose over to clear the rad and trim the engine mounting. I'm not running a mechanical fan so its bolted to the inner wing.



Mani and carb fit nicely.



Fitted clutch line to.



Top hose is not pretty, but functional. Any suggestions to improve?


jamiestevenbell

335 Posts
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Derby

Didn't some minis have a top hose abit like a question mark?


Carlzilla

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Quarry Bonk

I hope my engine bay looks that good!

On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper

On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!!

17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine)


jonny f

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Dorking

On 1st May, 2014 jamiestevenbell said:
Didn't some minis have a top hose abit like a question mark?


The trouble i have is the they are close with quite a big height change. A standard hose won't work.

I doubt what i have in the picture will work either as its tight to the bonnet.

On 1st May, 2014 Carlzilla said:
I hope my engine bay looks that good!


*happy*


jonny f

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Dorking

Had some help from the misses this morning. Manged to get the tunnel heat protected.



Got all the brake lines and a hydraulic handbrake in place. Just need to hold the lines in a few places.





The rear line goes into a T piece in the boot then out to the longer goodridge hoses.


Carlzilla

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Quarry Bonk

Looking awesome *happy*
As far as the top hose goes if it were me I'd be tempted to get a new piece welded to the top of the rad, so instead of coming straight out, it comes out 90 degrees facing the front and then have a shorter U shaped hose?

On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper

On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!!

17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine)


Rob H

4311 Posts
Member #: 700
Formerly British Open Classic

The West Country



I'm trying to get me head round what's happening with the cage here, it looks like it's welded to the A pillars but being a GRP shell that can't be possible

Isambard Kingdom Brunel said:
Nothing is impossible if you are an Engineer


jonny f

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Dorking


On 2nd May, 2014 Rob H said:


I'm trying to get me head round what's happening with the cage here, it looks like it's welded to the A pillars but being a GRP shell that can't be possible


It is, there's a piece of angle iron down in the sill two hoops of box section around the doors and a bit across the roof.
It was fitted as standard to add some strength in around the doors.


On 2nd May, 2014 Carlzilla said:
Looking awesome *happy*
As far as the top hose goes if it were me I'd be tempted to get a new piece welded to the top of the rad, so instead of coming straight out, it comes out 90 degrees facing the front and then have a shorter U shaped hose?


I'll have another look today but I don't think there's enough room for the bonnet. I was thinking maybe move it to the far side of the rad and rotate the stat housing (bin the dsn and modify a standard one).


Turbo This..

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1765 Posts
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Previously josh4444

Australia, brisbane

how about this type of thermo housing?
sort of kinks it round a bit perhaps to long may need a trim back then a short elbow hose ?

http://www.minimania.com/part/12G1902/Hous...-Sprite--Midget


Carlzilla

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Quarry Bonk

Problem is he's fitted a thermostat engine steady so he can't rotate it around or anything

On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper

On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!!

17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine)


Carl S
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1919 Posts
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Stalker

Stourport-on-Severn

What about a sandwich plate for the temp sensor under the current housing? Might make the steady angle a bit funky but should still work.

Would reduce the hose required as well.


jonny f

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Dorking

On 2nd May, 2014 Turbo This.. said:
how about this type of thermo housing?
sort of kinks it round a bit perhaps to long may need a trim back then a short elbow hose ?

http://www.minimania.com/part/12G1902/Hous...-Sprite--Midget


On 2nd May, 2014 Carlzilla said:
Problem is he's fitted a thermostat engine steady so he can't rotate it around or anything


That could work, I've had another look today and i think the neatest option would be to move the inlet forward and have it angled towards the front.


On 2nd May, 2014 Carl S said:
What about a sandwich plate for the temp sensor under the current housing? Might make the steady angle a bit funky but should still work.

Would reduce the hose required as well.


Its not the sensor thats causing the problem really more the height difference and angles.

I'll get a couple of pictures to show it better.


jonny f

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Dorking

Pictures to show my headache.





Column is in. My MK1 inner was shot. The lower spline didn't hold on the rack. So i robbed the inner off a mk3 column. Did not take to much modding to fit. Now i have the better lower bush.

Drilled for the mk1 indicator thingy.



Dash is also in, didn't like it in the centre, now its right in front its easier to see. Not much space for it to fit in. Loom is also pretty much done. Hidden it all down the inner wing.



Accelerator pedal is in. Had to make a bracket to bring it forward and mod the cable.



Two rear lower steadies in.



I gave up on using the mini handbrake and got this of a mate. Came from a suzuki SJ. Easier to use. As its just for MOT it won't be used in anger.



Fitted with threaded bar instead of a cable as it sits a lot further back.



Trimmed arches down, i need to mount the brackets for them next.


theoneeyedlizard

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7123 Posts
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The Boom Boom speaker Police!

Essex

That's looking seriously good!

In the 13's at last!.. Just

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