K1100 turbo track car build
Turbo Mini Forums

I do like the duct. Nice work!

This is FORD country, on a quiet day you can hear Vauxhalls rusting.

Looking very nice. Like the colour choice.

Love seeing the updates and progress then BOOM look at that workshop! That looked very nice place to be! Second ones not too bad either but how is it 2 stories up?

Cheers for the encouragement everyone.

D4VE - The first unit was lovely for keeping the car in and doing mechanical work but as for painting or anything else dusty, it was a nightmare. It was one volume so everything either needed covering or cleaning after a messy job.

The second unit is two stories with a mezzanine floor for storage, then the office out back so it's much better. Where the car is stood is only half of the bottom floor.

Edited by adcyork on 31st Mar, 2018.

Has anyone got any recommendations for engine machinists (preferably in yorkshire) that are capable of line boring a 4 bolt centre main cap?

I would recomend a hone after the bore too.

Alex E.Carr (Engineers) Ltd
2025 Spring Bank West, Hull, HU5 5ER
Tel: 01482 562191

Talk to 'Ian' he'll sort you out.

Performance Unlimited in York

Diligaf - thanks for the suggestion

Sprocket - Performance unlimited are just around the corner and I approached them first but they can't do the cylinder boring due to the small bore size being outside of the range of their kit. Not a problem in itself but I need to drop it off once and have it all done in one go really so I can fit it in around work.

I'm going to take it to Keith Calver over in Malton as he makes regular trips back and forth to a company who do line boring and honing and he has facility to do the rest.

The four bolt centre main turned up in the post today so I went and got the additional holes sorted for that tonight.



All clear of the 'box

Unless I’m mistaken, the studs should have the pins into the block?

Yes that’s how I understood it.

Wasn’t sure if you realised from your photos.

Update!

Made some good progress since the last time I posted and a lot of this has been down to the fabulous weather we've had up north for the past few months, that has allowed me to finish the painting at last.







All the panels were then stored away while I get the shell built up



On the engine front things have moved on nicely. However, the MED cap was found to be a bit hard which produced a less than ideal surface finish on the thrust faces. I wasn't very pleased with the cap when I first received it from MED due to the fact that the mating surface had visible machining marks in it that took a long time to oil stone out.

Had the block re-bored to suit 0.004" skirt clearance from the +0.020" forged Omegas as well as the line boring, so the dry build could commence.



The crank bearing clearances were all right on spec however during the build I noticed that the specialist components H section rods were catching on the bottom of the +20 bore, and also the piston cooling jets.





I hadn't heard of anyone having issues with con-rod clearance at the bottom of the bore, even with H-section rods and even with the crank axis moving up a few thou during the line boring, this didn't make sense. Regardless, I machined some clearance chamfers in to the bottom of the bore to allow >3mm clearance around the rods - job done



I'm aiming for 9:1 CR and calculations/dry build measurements show I need to skim 0.8mm off the piston crowns to achieve this.

The block is now back with Keith having the deck face machined to suit and cam bearings replaced as well as machining some spot faces for the new oil jets location that suits the rods.

Time to stick the previously assembled subframes in to the painted shell, and this highlighted that I hadn't sorted the rod end adapters for the steering rack. It was about time milling attachment for the lathe could start earning its brass and it came in handy to put the flats on the bar. Some EN19 bar was sourced and i knocked these up







Front subframe and ARB in





Same with the rear



And this brings us to today where I collected a box of bit to go and get powder coated. I did the subframes traffic grey RA7043 and I'm now debating whether to do the parts inside the car such as the gear selector, steering column mount, etc the same colour or do I do them black? Choices!

Edited by adcyork on 26th Aug, 2018.

Looks great. Strange those rods are touching. I had to relieve my jets a smidge in places for my Saenz rods, they were no where near the block though.

I think the grey would be a nice touch.

Hey mate, just found out about your thread today. I'm also currently building a turbo twinky and I'm also using +20 forged omegas with sc components forged rods, however my engine block is from a Mini metro with OEM liners (I believe). Like yourself I also had problems with the conrods hitting the side of the liner and as you did I machined small cutouts just to clear them. Here's the link to my build thread.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...id=605803&fr=50

It's been a while since I uploaded anything but will very shortly.

Been busy with my dissertation lately

I had seen your thread recently, good to hear you have had the issue with rod clearance too.

Mine is a liner-less block but same difference if your liners weren't proud of the bottom of bore.

Good luck with the build

On 28th Aug, 2018 Barrieri said:
Hey mate, just found out about your thread today. I'm also currently building a turbo twinky and I'm also using +20 forged omegas with sc components forged rods, however my engine block is from a Mini metro with OEM liners (I believe). Like yourself I also had problems with the conrods hitting the side of the liner and as you did I machined small cutouts just to clear them. Here's the link to my build thread.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...id=605803&fr=50

It's been a while since I uploaded anything but will very shortly.

Been busy with my dissertation lately

Plenty more progress since the last update, a lot of which I forgot to photograph

The fuel and electrical systems are now in up to the front bulkhead.







I reupholstered the dash rail in some alcantara suede and got the plywood/pine dash painted with some texture paint overblown with satin black. I was going for that 80's era feel with the dash and I'm happy with how it went.









After getting the pistons back from having the valve pockets cut I got the engine dry built to confirm clearances all looks fine. With that done, I machined some crank and cam sensor brackets (didn't get any pics of the cam sensor bracket) and bored a generic trigger wheel so it fit over the KAD pulley.

I now need to get the wheel welded to the pulley (taking it steady and being careful not to put too much heat in to it silicone fluid in the pulley). Not ideal but the pulley was dirt cheap second hand so it's worth a go.



Need a damn good hoover before final build....







Attention then turned to the oil drain collector now that it's welded and painted





Last dirty job on the block before degrease and paint was the dipstick. I could have gone for the specialist components disptick but being unwilling to fork out when I can make something myself I got hold of a short length of 10mm copper heating pipe and a generic dipstick from a Merc on ebay totaling about seven quid for both.

A cup/cap was turned up for both ends and a mild steel tang in the middle soft soldered on to support the tube. The ali was joined to the copper with loctite bearing fit and the positions for min/max were marked inside the box with a standard dip stick. Merc dipstick was then trimmed to suit and a small blob of weld on the end formed in to a ball to make it easy to slide inside the bent tube. Job's a good un.







Final degrease and clean of the block before paint. A bog brush is ideal to scrub the bores...





On with the gearbox build after finally receiving a new second gear and a good condition used 1st/2nd dog ring from Swiftune (the new dog rings are still not due to ages and I've waited 6 months as it is).

Cases back from vapour blasting looked good.





Just waiting on a 0.005" shim from guessworks to sort the layshaft end float out (currently 0.011") and a bearing to suit the swiftune layshaft small end.

It doesn't seem a lot when you put it down like this....

I'll beg to differ!! That's looking great and it certainly beats the progress on mine.

Got to love some tidy P-clipping...

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

Looks very tidy, will you have it out this year?

Fingers crossed but that's the plan!

Looking good

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Couple more bits done

Oil drains

[URL=https://smg.photobucket.com/user/adcyork/media/IMG_7950_zpszcjzw3jm.jpg.html][/URL

1mm removed from the crank pulley to get the belt sat central on the cam pulleys

Edited by adcyork on 14th May, 2019.

Bit of an issue tonight when fitting the RTS clutch and wok. The wok won't go on because the top hat is hard up against the release bearing with this gap still remaining between transfer case and wok (~6mm)



It was worse than that but the tabs on the pressed steel release bearing cage/carrier were hitting the wok before the back of the release bearing so i knocked those round further and the bearing i fully withdrawn against the wok now.

Parts used:

MED ultralight verto flywheel
1275 and 998 AP springs
MED clutch centre/crank taper
AP Racing friction plate

Clutch confirmed all the way home on the taper



My thoughts are that the clutch fingers are perhaps not flat enough meaning I need to machine post heights down on the flywheel?

Against a MED flywheel and (relatively) thin AP racing clutch plate has this left the spring too far off flat? The top hat certainly has very little engagement on the clutch centre

One way or another, that spring is no good like that. The other clue is the springs are separating. Do you still have the original post remnants? The best initial start for post length based on the twin spring clutch I made up is the length of the original posts, plus the thickness of the new spring (the one that was not paired with the posts), plus 1/2mm.

I don’t have the original spacers kicking about but I do have all the measurements in the notes. I made the new spacers to the exact size of the old ones + the thickness of the new spring. Why the need for the additional 1/2mm? Surely that would make things worse in this instance?

Edited by adcyork on 15th May, 2019.