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Home > Show Us Yours! > K1100 turbo track car build - Clutch Issues

slater

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Suffolk / Birmingham

What you need to do is check you have clearance for the pressure plate to release ok. If you do you can take some off the flywheel posts. If you dont you should take some off the spacers. I do think the spings need to sit 'flatter'


adcyork

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York

On 15th May, 2019 slater said:
What you need to do is check you have clearance for the pressure plate to release ok. If you do you can take some off the flywheel posts. If you dont you should take some off the spacers. I do think the spings need to sit 'flatter'


Thanks for the advice. I plan to get the flywheel on the press with a DTI when I get back in the workshop later this week to see what the clearance is between the fingers and the centre boss @6.5mm travel, and to check the friction plate releases at that point.

To be continued....


TurboDave16V
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SouthPark, Colorado

The extra distance is what I found is needed to make the spring operate correctly about the pivot point in the release phase, The clamping phase is affected, but you need room between them to be able to function properly as it is in clamp mode, and transitions to release with travel on the release bearing. I tried the original length + new spring thickness outright, but it was clearly not right as I had to really apply a lot more torque to pull the bolts in the last 1/2mm, and the shallow U-section plate was deforming excessively.


That said - I did have to machine my posts on the backplate (which I had forgotten until now)!

Removing the dowels from the minispares steel backplate (to machine the surface) was an absolute swine - in the end I welded a nut on, wrenched it out, and bought new dowels. IIRC, the reason I had to machine was because for some reason, the post heights were different compared to the factory flywheel. Do you have a factory cast one to compare it to?



On 15th May, 2019 adcyork said:
I donít have the original spacers kicking about but I do have all the measurements in the notes. I made the new spacers to the exact size of the old ones + the thickness of the new spring. Why the need for the additional 1/2mm? Surely that would make things worse in this instance?

Edited by TurboDave16V on 16th May, 2019.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Who remembers this first time around: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF0a5aoEGsw


adcyork

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York

Update!

I've sorted the clutch. Had it all apart again and checked the length of the spacers against my notes and it turns out the spacers were just over 2.2mm too long. So that made for an easy fix but a cock up all the same. Anyway, got it all back together and put it in the press and the plate released at 6mm travel. Spring now sits much flatter



There was a few other bits to do on the engine before it could be fitted such as the speedo hall sensor bracket and to araldite the magnet on to the pot joint as well as making a blank for the speedo hole.



Time to drop the engine in after making a rack to pick it up square and level





Plumbed the clutch slave up and bled it. I'd modded this during the dry build as the position I have the engine in the auto subframe meant the rear facing banjo was very close to the subframe so I faced the end off flat and drilled for a JIC fitting.



On to the IACV. I had previously planned to run the four wire magnetti marelli unit in the first picture as I understood that a firmware upgrade would enable this with the Emerald K3 ECU I'm running but I now learn only the K6 unit has this capability apparently.

The mini MPI unit (MDQ100040) is a 5 wire K3 compatible unit and I'm hoping to run it in the same housing so I don't have to change the plenum. The holes in the housing line up because there is two options and the other holes line up.

Regards plunger travel and housing geometry, will the two interchange OK?

















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