K1100 turbo track car build
Turbo Mini Forums

Nice turbo system, might have to start my manifold again for the 3rd time looking at that!

Any more progress with this mate?

Instagram: bighill93

Bit of a milestone reached today.

All of the wiring is now completed and tested. First full loom I've ever done so pretty chuffed.

It's all bespoke, built from scratch using thin wall cable throughout with one of the modular fuse/relay boxes mounted on the back side of the bulkhead turbo box.

I've chosen to mount a project box with switches in it on the gearlinkage so that all of the necessary controls can be reached when in the seat with harnesses buckled up.





I made a choice on dash layout based upon what is visible around/through the wheel when sat in the seat. Queue some assistance and me saying up or down while sat in the seat and a rough line was drawn on the dash panel. The gauges in the centre are tacho/speedo, water temp and oil pressure. The other gauges are then spread out with the least critical furthest away.



That enabled me to get on with the wiring behind the dash with common positive 12v and earth bus bars made from some stainless fuel tank strap which the terminate in two 8 pins connectors





The combined header and breather oil catch tank with MAP sensor mount turned up from Rich Ellis fabrication, exactly to drawing and very speedy turn around. The tank is designed to fit a morose oil separator fitted on top of the tank. I was then able to terminate the MAP sensor connector now that location was fixed.



The fuel system plumbing was completed with the mounting of high and low pressure fuel pumps along with the positioning of the high pressure fuel filter in the engine bay above the IC.





Next up is to finish off the 38mm waste outlet pipes and final positioning and welding of the lambda and EGT bosses on th down pipe...

Edited by adcyork on 29th Mar, 2016.

It all looks very smart. A couple of constructive comments from me, 1) will the fuse box assy be Ok with heat from the turbo box, 2) I'm not too keen on the fuel filter there, if you have a big shunt the last thing you want is a punctured filter canister spraying fuel about, can it not go in the boot behind the rear bulkhead insstead.

Got on with the remaining bits of the wastegate pipe work tonight and came up with a better routing and entry angle into the downpipe. Then I ran out of argon...



I still need to add a flexi on the long straight section but here it is tacked up for alignment before chopping

Nice looking loom!

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Whole job looks very professional, but (personal view only) I hate those red and blue anodized fittings.

Totally agree which is why i went for black on all the fuel lines but they were much cheaper than black and hopefully they'll be pretty hidden under the plenum etc

Edited by adcyork on 21st Apr, 2016.

Looks good!

Solid steady?

I,m told that if you paint oven cleaner on those fittings all the anodizing comes off and the alloy can then be polished.

A note on oven cleaner . Stay the f away from anything ( wheel cleaners etc) with HF in it . It is evil ! It will go through gloves and kill the bones in your hand (and a few other bits on the way as well). We have patients that have been operated over 100 times to get rid of it .

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

Another long while since the last update and it's been one of those periods where progress has been quite significant but only a few key points were worth taking pictures of.

First off, I finished the mold and got on with a bit of wet lay up to finish the IC duct in CF. It had to be cut into a two piece mold as the section nearest the top of the grill has negative draft so some structure was added to the steel base plate so that the two sections could be unbolted and split.

Mold shape finished



Not wanting to pay out for expensive model board, I had used some blue styrofoam I had about to make the main bulk of the mold. Some parts were exposed after finishing, and these would react with the pattern coat, so a layer of epoxy resin was applied as a barrier to ensure there was no reaction.



Pattern coat rough brushed on



Flatted back



Lay up. It was the first time i'd done any wet lay up work of this kind but it came out ok. I used 3 layers of 2/2 200gsm cloth and in hindsight didn't need so much overlap of the mold but heyho.




Trimmed, drilled and fitted up



Excuse the wax release agent I hadn't cleaned off. Rubber seal to be fitted around the edge to seal it to the IC





Next up I finished off the subframes with some final seam welding of previously tacked up components such as the engine mount plates to adapt the auto frame, oil cooler mounts, ARB bushes, exhaust clearance cutout etc.

Along with the addition of a stiffening rib around the new tie bar mount on the rear left leg of the front frame





All of the running gear and subframes then went off for final blasting and powder coating in traffic grey. It was the closest RAL colour match to a VW grey that I had seen and it came out a nice shade.

With all of that back it was time for a dry build and to put the car on it's wheels for the first time in over 2 years, primarily so I could trim the arches and drill the holes in the body.

With no weight in the car the front end sat very high even with the hi-lo's wound right in so the cone compressor was used to get the car on the deck and measure up





The car was now stripped back to a bare shell and everything was wrapped up and put away ready for prepping for paint.

One final task before any paint was applied was to weld the door bars into the cage. I'd put this off for as long as possible so I could still get in and out of the car easily.



The bottom was first for paint and this required use of the spit which was modified slightly to allow better mounting to the shell. Rusty spare motorbike brake disc welded to the frame so it can be locked off on the mole grips. The pivot was fairly close to centre of mass of the shell (mostly by chance) so it was quite easy to rotate and the mole grips held it easily.

With the car up on it's side, stone chip primer was applied across the entire underfloor



Then 2K colour coat which was a nice change from the red oxide dotted with zinc primer. Definitely helps the enthusiasm!



Next up, prepping and painting the rest of the shell

Edited by adcyork on 8th Sep, 2016.

Love that radiator duct, great work

duct looks good

must be good to get a bit of top coat on it after all the hard work!

Nice work, i'm liking the colour!

That duct looks excellent, I shall be plagiarsing that!

Love it !! Great colour , stunning duct

Looks great.

Love the duct looks similar to mine but about 100x better!

Keep up the work, love your build

Instagram: bighill93

Lovely work. Especially like the duct!

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Long time no update!

Lots has happened since september 2016 including two house moves, working out of two different units. Of course, the usual issue of life getting in the way of progress on the car was no different in this case.

Before moving I managed to get boot lid fit sorted out and the inside of the car painted including engine bay and boot.

I really didn't want a smooth booth with pins or dzeus fasteners so I planned to retain the centre chrome handle. The issue with that was the single skin arc angles boot lid being deformed out of shape by the seal.

So I came up with the solution to use some steel bonded to the composite boot lid (still much lighter than twin skin!) and made some little steel tangs for neodymium magnets to engage on. As you undo the catch and open the boot lid it distorts very slightly at the corners which moves the magnets out of square with the tang and releases the corners - simple.















A move to another unit then happened and the welder was the first thing operational so I thought it time to finally get some proper sill stands made. Cue a re-purposed ikea table and some '2 be 1' to knock a jig up from.





I had the subframe and suspension bits powder coated in gun metal grey and got the car rolling to aid me in getting it moved to the new unit.



Bodywork prep then commenced with everything in primer and then roof done in 60's old english white.













The doors had come back from the soda blasters about as flat as the Atlantic ocean in a storm so it took a while to beat and fill them flat again. Not impressed really as I doubt media blasting would have done any more damage than was done to a brand new door skin here.



The spa design formula mirrors were test fitted to work out if they would cover the old riv nut holes up or not, luckily they did, therefore I can swap back to standard mini fitment if that takes my fancy later on.



Second move time!



This image was just before christmas when the cold weather set in. This unit is two stories high with a pent roof and significantly less well insulated. I need a good 10deg day outside to get 20+deg inside with the heater on and given the awful weather across the country so far, the car still sits in primer today.





So with painting off the cards for a short while it was time to crack on with the engine. I began cleaning the ports up in the head.





I was happy to find that the valves all lapped in with a good clean equal width seat face so that has saved some cash getting the seats re-cut. Time to measure the chambers of which there was a slight variance.

1 - 20.2cc 2- 20.1cc 3 - 19.6cc 4 - 19.4cc

All are now equal at 20.2cc



I'm aiming for a static CR of 9:1 which will require a reduction in head volume if i'm to use the 18cc forged omegas that I already have on the shelf.

As it stands the static CR is down at 8.33:1

I made the assumption that the valve cutouts (correctly positioned and not oversized) will equate to around 1.5cc, does anyone have any measured numbers for this?

Taking the above in to account I need a 17cc chamber volume in the head. Need to do some measurements to assess viability of skimming the head that much as it will also, of course, affect the valve to piston clearance requiring deeper valve pockets and adding volume back into the chamber again...

Edited by adcyork on 30th Mar, 2018.

Forgot to mention a couple of things.

I managed to get a pukka gen crank off Carl



There is also an office at the new unit meaning I can shut the door and keep the engine parts clean



Finally I got round to machining the block for the BMW under crown cooling jets. Using an end mill to spot face the block in the pillar drill was less than ideal but the surface finish is quite good and will be fine to gain an oil seal against.

Making some serious progress now, this car should fly.

That duct is still awesome.