Cylinder 4 cooling
Turbo Mini Forums

Guys apart from dry decking what other mods can
Be done to get more water to that area.

Can you post some photos?

Ive seen the waterways fromt he block to head brazed and redrilled smaller for the middle cylinders so the water will tend to go past cyl 4.

Thanks joe, what about this heater trick?

My engine is together so no popong head off now!

this is a massive bowl of contention Nic, and all kinds of plumbing sort of fixed has been employed by many people, engine builders and alike over many years trying to fix a problem thats not there ............... its not needed in my book. most are based on upping the horsepower massivley and still using the standard pipe work plumbing for a 60 hp engine

whats is needed in a high output engine is a good radiator HC radiator then you need to utilise the heater take off port near number 4 cylinder, make sure this cant be shut off......

so in short you need to plumb the water works in a ring main, simple as that,

starting from the top hose from stat to top of rad.... then fit btm of rad hose to waterpump,

from number 4 cyl heater take off port to manifold out of manifold to the hose with the leg take off between the pump and btm rad hose, if you have a heater you can come out of the maniflod in and out of the heater to the hose between the pump and btm rad,

i have seen many bodge jobs on cooling systems plumbed here and there take off here for this and that, and its 99% all ended in tears ........... in short you just have to run it like a ring main and use the heater take off port ..... all the dry decking and so on is not needed IMO. its just a negative train of thought trying to solve a overheating problem that exists on standar plumbing ...ETC....

some may disagree, but that my take on things and it works!!!

hope this helps Nic

Epic reply it does! I now front mount raded.

So the plan was to re circulate the water back around. So I assume putting it back into the top hose is the way to go?

That way you are re cooling the hot water?

Or have I got it wrong? Going back into the bottom hose will take a lot longer to warm the car up?

I have seen a lot of success with dry decking, I just wanted to to something bit more simple & not chop into the head.

if you have a side mounted rad yes!it doesent matter as the volume of water flow is massive ...... the diffrence in warm up time is not noticable,

i also forgot to mention dont use a bypass hose from the head to the water pump this needs to be blanked nic, this helps to shove the water well around to number 4 cylinder use a 74 deg stat & drill 6 x 5mm holes around the outside thats your so called water flow sleve and stat in one
you need to use a HC water pump also these are around £14 from minispares.

hope this makes it a little clearer

In Ministox racing, the heater take off, I plumb the heater take off from number 4 back into a cut down bottom hose as a top hose, gets heat out of number 4 end and back to the rad, on the hot into it side, putting hot water into the cold coming from the rad doesnt make sense.

yes you have a point, thats on a balls out sreamer which get very hot quickley!

on a road car which a lot of peeps have its not that critical, as you are on and off the power, theres enough flow and cooling capacity to sort the cooling,

the point iam making is peeps go to insane lengths to sort a simple problem with insane thinking as mentioned.

"insane" says the nutty proffesor

haha thanks benross for the expert advice..

gone & ordered some Bling from DNS to finalise my car! getting close now.

Yes Ministox is a little nuts like that, 0 to flatout in second gear for 10 laps then park it up again...