is this right?
Turbo Mini Forums

still cant get the car to fire up, just thought id post a few pictures to show how its set up, and if anyone can see anything obvious that would prevent it from starting

The red line is the fuel, and the black one is for the bleed valve which isnt fitted so blocked off for the moment

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

Correct me if im wrong but thats not a turbo carb is it?

If ur using a NA carb is that blue pipe vented to air? Should be IIRC

Edited by iain on 28th Dec, 2003.

it looks to me that the top of the carb is a turbo, as it has the clamp on the dashpot, but there does not look like enough pipes on the main carb body to me

Team Racing

as far as im aware it is a turbo carb, at least its the carb that came with the engine, it also has that valve on the throttle buttefly which i thought turbos only had? the engine seems to be from a mk1 turbo as it has a slightly different ignition module to the later ones.

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

I got a turbo carb around and it has the throtle control on the left side of the carbs as ur looking from the front of the car, but i thought that was the only diffrence.

im pretty sure it is a turbo carb, maybe dave might know if there is a gauranteed way of telling if its turbo or not. i suppose its difficult trying to describe an engine that wont spark as it could be down to a few things, im sure the timimg of the dizzy is right, the plugs spark, and there is fuel in the float chamber and i have checked all of the things that dave has said to above...

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

Well it has the correct carb spacer for a turbo, and the right dashpot, the only sure check is if it has the square section o-ring (or rather the groove) between the dashpot and body.

If that hole in front of the fuelk inlet is well plugged, i'd say fair game. The next thing you can try is to block the blue pipe from the front to side of the carb. Don't ask, but i've seen it happen where the engine would only fire when this was blocked....


Where do you live exactly? I'm doing a bit of travelling this next week...

The engine will not know where the carb came from. It should start and idle with HS2 !

If everything is OK as you say start with changing fresh plugs. Preferably std 1275 n/a ones like NGK BP6ES (sorry Dave, could not resist...), these will do just fine at the initial start up.
Try to start the engine.

More basic checks: Turn the engine so that you have #1 cylinder firing. Check the phasing of the dizzy so that the rotor points to #1 terminal. Check the wires so that they run to correct cylinder in correct order. You will have spark even if the above is NOT correct. So double check. Electric dizzys are pain in the butt to set statically so you will need a timing light to sort the ignition advance. I have tried to line the rotor tip with #1 terminal by sight. That gives a rough setting.

Check that the jet is lower than the carb bridge area, 1-1,5 mm is a good starting point.

Then have a go. Should start within a few turns of the crank.

dave, i will try blocking the blue pipe im a minute, post up what happens, i live in plymouth, devon. (i think this is where we need our locations under our names as suggested, admin! )

jukka, i have those NGK plugs in there, they are brand new. the timing is all correct, no.1 TDC when inlet valve closes (so its not 180 out) with rotor about to fire on no.1 lead. and also the jet is lower than the bridge area.

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|