reconditioned gearbox crunching on 3rd
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi,
I've just replace my reconditioned gearbox with new bearings and new baulk rings,
but it now crunch on third gear only and only at high rev mostly when dropping from 4th to 3rd.
I'm thinking of a defect baulk (there from minisport) but was hopping it could be something else (clutch not disengaging completely ?)
Any opinion of what it could be would be greatly appreciated !

(just moved this topic to the right place, sorry)

Don't know if it can help,
I've tried double clutching but it doesn't seem to work. Maybe I'm not doing it right...

Definately check your clutch isn't dragging but it sounds very much like you have a syncro issue.

This could be the baulk ring or the gear at fault.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Thanks for your reply,
dog tooth were looking good and gears were passing smooth before the rebuild so probably the baulk ring...

Should I have problems passing the other gears too if it was a dragging clutch?

Probably, more so in lower gears too I would have thought.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Ok, sounds like engine will have to go out again... third time in two weeks... good practice

bearings are from them too, hope they will last longer than 20 miles!!
I normally buy everything from minispares
but some bearings were not in stock so I've tried minisport....

Personally I've not had much luck with minisport. Quite a few on hear have had issues with parts not being as described.

Yep, they sell stuff using gen part numbers when they aren't!

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

In fact idler bearings were missing from the gearbox bearing kit that I bought

Do you think learning double clutching would help me in my case ? I've just tried the car again and third only crunch over 3000rpm

You said double clutching didn't help. I would pull it out and pull it to bits.

hum...think I'll have to wait a little before pulling out again (money,wife...). I'll continue the running in and will do it when I regain energy and motivation...

I know that feeling

The baulk ring could be stuck on the come of the gear I've had this problem in the past!

thank you Star Mag,
how did you fix it ?
stripping or can I hope it unstuck by itself
if it's the problem ?
I'm still trying to comfort myself !

Felt the need to post you this, you may interested in reading before you do the gearbox again, I don't know who it was but someone put a link to this on another thread on this forum, and I copied it for future reference. Alan

Main Build
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=489133

Upgrade to Turbo
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=448367&fr=0

Oh shit? My new box has genuine rover baulk rings in it. Thought they were the best of a crap bunch

On 7th Aug, 2013 nala56 said:
Felt the need to post you this, you may interested in reading before you do the gearbox again, I don't know who it was but someone put a link to this on another thread on this forum, and I copied it for future reference. Alan

Edited by Sprocket on 7th Aug, 2013.

Which clearence was it between the synchro ring and hub? My experience is that 1mm is minimum.

I didn't check this clearance as everything was good in the gearbox before the rebuild.
Previous original baulks were still looking fine so I may reuse them instead of buying new ones.
I've read somewhere they should be kept with their respective gears ? What's your opinions on this point ?

I too have experienced a new baulk ring sticking to the cone (can't remember which make but I now too use good old ones).

The reason I believe sticking to the cone causes the crunching is the crunching isn't on the gear it sticks to, but on the next change - If the baulk ring on say 3rd sticks to the cone when you change down 4 to 3, when you try to change down 3 - 2 the mainshaft is being held at 3rd gear speed by the stuck cone on 3rd, and the 2nd gear baulk ring has to break the 3rd gear one free (un-stick it if you like) before it can match the shaft to second gear speed. And they are just not strong enough to break a previous stuck one free and sychronise shaft speed in the time available.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Interesting...
but when i get in third, go to neutral and try to engage third again it make the same crunching noise...

Going into neutral would move the synchro hub back, but if the baulk ring is still stuck on a cone it wouldn't pull it back with it as they are floating between the gear and hub.