RTS clutch won't disengage
Turbo Mini Forums

So, I put in an RTS clutch. There is pressure and movement when I press on the clutch (I did bleed the line), but it doesn't disengage. I started into trying to get the clutch cover off, which I can tell you hasn't been fun so far, but thought it would be worth seeing if anyone else has had this problem. From what I've read so far there isn't a lot that can be done without opening up the clutch cover. Right now I am guessing something just wasn't put together properly. I am considering trying to lengthen the push rod before I go too much further, but it sounds like that is not of any real help. I did try just backing off the stop, but there isn't any additional travel.

Other ideas?

On the plus side I did get my engine back in and started and it sounds great. Just doesn't go anywhere...

Thanks,
Jeremy

'91 ERA
http://turboera.com/

i had to extend the push rod by a good inch on mine but only because the piston in the slave was almost at full travel even though the clutch was at rest
aaaannnddd when it was built was the flywheel machined untill the spring sits almost flat at rest? similar to building a pre verto clutch

Yes i moved to the darkside

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is the clutch friction plate fitted the right way round? the flange needs to be facing the nose of the crank from memory. the pre vertos are the opposite way round.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

How long is the threaded part of your shouldered bolts (used in place of the original rivets)?
when i 1st built mine they were protruding through too far and contacting the backplate when operated and meant it would not disengage.

Uh oh! My flywheel may be coming off then!

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Yep! Just checked my pictures and the fucker is in the wrong way!

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Ha ha!

John. The disengagement of your RTS was checked at 6.5mm throw out. The issue highlighted by Ian_W doesn't present a problem, but i cannot comment on any others. I left the friction plate for you to put in the right way

Edited by Sprocket on 9th Aug, 2013.

The flywheel wasn't machined and the fingers don’t sit flat.

I believe the friction plate is on the right way and I am not sure that it would go on the other way all that easily.

I will need to check the shoulder bolts as that could be possible.

Looks like I am still going to be taking the cover off. Kids may be going to bed early so I can work on this… :)

Jeremy

'91 ERA
http://turboera.com/

ok, got it apart and it appears to be a bit of a dumb mistake. Apparently the ring didn't get installed below the fingers so the fingers just bend rather than teetering over the ring and re-leaving the pressure.

'91 ERA
http://turboera.com/

Got it working! Clutch is fairly stiff. We will see how it goes after a bit longer ride. Now I just need to do a bit more driving before it is ready for regular driving.

Thanks for the follow-up.

'91 ERA
http://turboera.com/

Good stuff,

yeah see how it goes, it may well settle in and be softer, if not its possible to lengthen the clutch arm which will make a big difference.

Haynes manual lies! You can't put the clutch plate in back to front. Pulled mine off (thank you very much) at the weekend and you can't put it in the other way.

Still gave me opportunity to rectify another potential boo boo.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

It does get easier, but I'm still going to fit the lengthened arm once I get my finger out.

In the 13's at last!.. Just