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| Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > dropped a bollock, healboard help needed | |||||||
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225 Posts Member #: 3772 Senior Member Wigan |
10th Aug, 2013 at 05:12:09pm
HELP ive dropped a bollock, finally got the underside of the car all painted up so though I would assemble the suspension.Got my beam ready to fit and started by running my tap own all 4 healboard screws all fine. Loaded the beam onto the jack and lined it all up. Im being carefull and decided to use stainless bolts. Copper slipped up first three ran in perfect 4th has gonein so far and the stainless has picked up and stuck in the nut. Unfortunately in a stupid move ive over loaded it and the nut has parted company from the heal board. So the whole lot is turning. I can get a slitting disk in to cut the bolt but how do I get it out and how do I weld a new one in. Cheers in advance. |
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 12307 Posts Member #: 565 Carlos Fandango Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex |
10th Aug, 2013 at 05:26:42pm
sucks teeth...
On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged... Joe, do you have a photo of your tool? http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1 https://joe1977.imgbb.com/ |
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4018 Posts Member #: 1757 Back to Fucking Tool status Swindon |
10th Aug, 2013 at 05:30:36pm
Pull bolt back and try and tack it on if you can get the welder on? Accidentally did this yesterday lol Drives
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225 Posts Member #: 3772 Senior Member Wigan |
10th Aug, 2013 at 05:37:05pm
Option 2first then option 1, also thought hole saw inner sill and then plate over after. |
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Forum Mod  5933 Posts Member #: 784 9 times Avon Park Class C winner Milton Keynes |
10th Aug, 2013 at 05:46:34pm
I once managed to split the spotwelds on the pinchweld on the inner sill, weld in a new nut and re weld the spotwelds .........if that makes sense I seriously doubt it! |
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 825 Posts Member #: 9661 Post Whore Sheffield South Yorkshire GB. |
10th Aug, 2013 at 06:20:16pm
Use a silting wheel as you sudjest, cut the the bolt off drill out the hole to the size of a rivet nut, the blind type as in the picture below. Fit your beam and I would then steadily run a tap through it with the beam fitted, screw in your m8 bolt. Job done. Alan.
Main Build
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 644 Posts Member #: 9371 Post Whore East Yorkshire |
10th Aug, 2013 at 06:39:48pm
On 10th Aug, 2013 Joe C said:
sucks teeth... tricky one, what I would do is get a large thick washer (about 19mm?) , weld a nut to it, tthen drill the heel board to the diameter of the washer (fish the old nut out) and weld the wash and nut in flush, knock back the welds and repaint that area. any one got any better ideas? I've done this on the cross beam to fit my seat subframes. Works a treat for that. BHP sells engines, but Torque wins races! |
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Forum Mod 5933 Posts Member #: 784 9 times Avon Park Class C winner Milton Keynes |
10th Aug, 2013 at 06:48:58pm
I really wouldnt advise a rivnut I seriously doubt it! |
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825 Posts Member #: 9661 Post Whore Sheffield South Yorkshire GB. |
10th Aug, 2013 at 06:55:07pm
Paul don't under estimate these rivets, they are not soft ally they are really strong more thread inside them than a standard nut, and when all said a done he's got three other bolts in there, in my pinion plenty strong enough for the job. Main Build
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225 Posts Member #: 3772 Senior Member Wigan |
10th Aug, 2013 at 07:19:57pm
I have the use of a good rivnut set and agree they are strong. We use them at work alot. However will be drilling a hole in the inner sill big egnough to get a ring spanner in then nut and bolting it and putting a rubber grommet back in the hole for later undoos |
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225 Posts Member #: 3772 Senior Member Wigan |
10th Aug, 2013 at 07:20:58pm
The wife will just have to help |
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825 Posts Member #: 9661 Post Whore Sheffield South Yorkshire GB. |
10th Aug, 2013 at 07:46:09pm
It's a nice idea that mate, you won't see the grommet without looking for it, saves you burning the paint off plus the fact that when you start welding and can't get to paint it oxidisation sets in speeding up the rusting proses. It's a very bad place for rust to start with. Alan Main Build
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225 Posts Member #: 3772 Senior Member Wigan |
10th Aug, 2013 at 07:52:19pm
The grommet will also come in handy for cavity wax, and im sticking to that story with the mot inspector. |
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825 Posts Member #: 9661 Post Whore Sheffield South Yorkshire GB. |
10th Aug, 2013 at 08:05:00pm
Never though about the MOT man, I think any holes or the like have to be 2inch away from a stress point, or does it just mean rust damage. I suppose it depends on the digression of the inspector. Main Build
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225 Posts Member #: 3772 Senior Member Wigan |
10th Aug, 2013 at 08:13:18pm
Carpet to cover it me thinks |
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825 Posts Member #: 9661 Post Whore Sheffield South Yorkshire GB. |
10th Aug, 2013 at 08:45:45pm
I think you'll be fine mate. Main Build
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Forum Mod 5933 Posts Member #: 784 9 times Avon Park Class C winner Milton Keynes |
10th Aug, 2013 at 10:04:13pm
I know rivnuts very well and use them very regularly - Aston Martins are covered in them. Theyre only fit for holding on undertrays and headlights, definately not suspension I seriously doubt it! |
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4018 Posts Member #: 1757 Back to Fucking Tool status Swindon |
10th Aug, 2013 at 10:53:37pm
Agreed to the above, I would never use a rivnut for suspension componants, in my personal opinion its like using a second hand condom. Drives
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225 Posts Member #: 3772 Senior Member Wigan |
11th Aug, 2013 at 05:46:33pm
managed to drill the plate between the inner cill and body seam egnough to get a tack weld on and then wind it out. cheers all for the advice. beam now in and some suspension fitted.
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825 Posts Member #: 9661 Post Whore Sheffield South Yorkshire GB. |
11th Aug, 2013 at 07:01:07pm
Ok I get what your saying Paul. And Paul R.
On 10th Aug, 2013 paul wiginton said:
I know rivnuts very well and use them very regularly - Aston Martins are covered in them. Theyre only fit for holding on undertrays and headlights, definately not suspension Edited by nala56 on 11th Aug, 2013. Main Build
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