Verto hub bolts upgrade
Turbo Mini Forums

I've been stripping my clutch today, and it looks like my hub retaining bolts and threads in the carrier plate are looking a bit worse for wear, even though the threads were perfect on installation and new bolts used.

It looks like the bolts DAM5920 aren't currently available form minispares, so to save time drilling out another carrier and basically making another rts, and strengthen the holding threads, I've been thinking of going for an m12 x 1.5 or m12 x 1.0 thread 12.9 grade. the old bolts seem to be 10.9s and 16 tpi thread, which only seems to allow for 4-5 threads in the plate.

What are people's thoughts on the proposed threads with regards to strength and availability of the bolts needed? It seems hex versions are hard to come by, apart from some BMW bolts which seem to be m12 x 1.5 x 38mm 12.9 but obviously priced as an oem part!

Cheers
Matt

Edited by matty on 18th Oct, 2013.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

12x1.25 is another option quite often used in automotive applications

Any idea on what vehicles to look for using 1.25?

My initial thoughts was something like brake caliper bolts from something, as they've got to be about m12.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Why not a unf thread?

I seriously doubt it!

I could use unf, but at work we have an abundance of fine metric taps and thought it would be easier to find a metric bolt.

It'll probably be easier to find a hex imperial bolt saying that though.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

What about dowelling the center to the plate in the three places not used for the puller and just use a grade 12.9 cap head or better still NAS bolts.

From what I can see there are two different threads depending on the type of clutch. The AP clutch uses a standard M10 thread, while the Valeo appears to use an M10 fine thread, both 10.9 grade

Also, I'm not sure about the Valeo backing plate, but the AP backing plate has a raised 'shoulder' around the blot holes increasing the thread engagement.

Edited by Sprocket on 19th Oct, 2013.

D you know if there is enough clearance to use cap heads? I'm sure I remember someone saying they catch the friction plate...could be wrong though.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

you can get reduced head ones

Maybe ARP do something, I've seen 12 point reduced head ARP bolts for other cars for the flywheel

Edited by Sprocket on 27th Oct, 2013.

Most jap cars use m12x1.25 for chassis and suspension, flywheels are often mwhateverx1mm or so

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

Ah ha these look perfect!

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/107-2802/10002/-1

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Three different lengths in the range you are looking for. There are others longer if you want them


http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=1661

http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=1260

http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=1261

or in M10 x1.25

http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=1283

http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=4594

http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=4592

Yeah 15mm may be cutting it fine. I'll have to have a measure up. At least I know where to look now, quite a few for mitsubishi cars on eBay too in the uk.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Mission complete!

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

nicely done!

very good,

hpow about taking the fucker apart again and sticking some locktite between the hub and outer...

nice

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

All clearance holes were drilled to 12mm and I used M12 X 1.25 X 15mm bolts, so absolutely no chance of fretting. I lapped the mating faces together, and used high strength locktite on the bolts...it'll be a fucker to take apart now. Lol

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Just use heat on the bolts when you want to take it appart. That softens up the thread lock.