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Home > Show Us Yours! > JT's Turbo Clubman

JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
Post Whore

Hertfordshire

Well got it fitted today



The annoying thing with it is you can't get a socket on about 3 of the nuts! Had to use an open spanner. Not the end of thecworld but wanted to torque it up so it clamps it call equally. Oh well it's on and hopefully it'll sort my leak out once and for all!

Cheers
Josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
Post Whore

Hertfordshire

Bit more done...






My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
Post Whore

Hertfordshire

Right guys. Got the engine all in and tried to fire it up but got no spark.
The only thing I've changed is the crank position sensor. I'm using the one supplied by MED.
I've set it 1mm gap which I'm sure is correct?
The only other thing I can think of is the length of the cable. It's about twice as long as it was. Would this effect anything?

Cheers
Josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


jonny f

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2091 Posts
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Dorking

try reversing the polarity of the sensor.


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
Post Whore

Hertfordshire

Jonny didn't even think of that! I'll try that before shortening the cable.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


jonny f

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Dorking

Cable length shouldn’t effect it really.


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
Post Whore

Hertfordshire

Ok I've had a bit of a play.
It's not giving any resistance.
The other sensor is giving 350 ohms
The old one that works on the car doesn't fit my med bracket.
The one that fits the med bracket is a Magneti Marelli sensor. Is this the right sort to work with megajolt? Or have I got a dodgy sensor?

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


shane

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2618 Posts
Member #: 1246
Post Whore

Lowestoft, Suffolk.

I’ve a new and used magneti in the garage, both measure 650 Ohms.
Can’t comment on weather they work with MJ as I’m running emerald.
Shane

Edited by shane on 23rd Feb, 2019.


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
Post Whore

Hertfordshire

This is what I've got

https://www.med-engineering.co.uk/cps-belt-drive

If it's the correct one Shane how much are you after for one? Although I'm hoping med will replace this one as I've only had it 6 weeks and it's never worked! lol

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


shane

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2618 Posts
Member #: 1246
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Lowestoft, Suffolk.

They are the same as mine. Not for sale I’m afraid, both required.
Not wanting to teach you to suck eggs but is your meter set to the right range?
Shane


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
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Hertfordshire

Using the same settings on the meter it shows resistance on the other sensor that I know works.
I would use it but it it doesn't fit the new bracket from med.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


shane

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Lowestoft, Suffolk.

What’s the max range of the setting you have the meter on? Not all meters are auto ranging and some have a limit of the range they will read (for example not all will read kilo-ohm).
All I’m saying is be sure that your trying to read it correctly with the meter you have.

Shane


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
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Hertfordshire

Like I said I tried it with 2 sensors and both give different readings on the same settings. I suspect one give 0. And the other one gives 350 ohms.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


shane

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2618 Posts
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Lowestoft, Suffolk.

I appreciate that, but if your meter either by it’s nature or the setting you have it on only reads up to 350 Ohms then it may not read the 650 of the marelli sensor and appear U/S.
Did you try reversing the polarity when it didn’t work?

Shane


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
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Hertfordshire

Yes I tried reversing the polarity..
I see what your saying. I'll double check it reads higher than 350 ohm's.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
Post Whore

Hertfordshire

I got it running today with the old sensor.

I seem to have the same issue with the idle.

I have the mixture screw fully in and it idles ok.
The afr gauge is showing off scale lean!
It also changes alot with engine temperature. I must of adjusted it's idle speed 6 times? As it would keep speeding up then slowing down! It seems to work fine when I'm driving it.

Fuel pressure set to 3psi at idle. When I turn the engine off and the pump off, the gauge still showed pressure for a few minutes after....is this normal?


Any ideas? The seals in the carb are new.

Thanks
Josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


Turbo Phil

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4619 Posts
Member #: 20
My sister is so fit I won't show anyone her picture

Lake District

Definitely no air leaks, or unplugged holes in the manifold etc ?

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
Post Whore

Hertfordshire

I'll check again with a can of wd40. I'm fairly sure there's no leaks though.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


turbominik

76 Posts
Member #: 8976
Advanced Member

Check the intake manifold flanges that bolt with the cylinder head because mine warped so badly that you can almost fit a 0.05mm gauge. Also try to reduce crank position sensor clearance to 0.5mm


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
Post Whore

Hertfordshire

Would the gap affect the fueling at idle? I haven't got a miss fire.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


turbominik

76 Posts
Member #: 8976
Advanced Member

If you have the intake manifold flanges warped enough that there is a gap between the head to manifold gasket, yes it will effect fuelling at idle since air is drawn from the flanges. It is very strange that you have the idle mixture screw all in and the engine still running a bit lean on idle. Do you have a boost vacuum gauge hooked to the engine if so check how much vacuum you have on idle.

For the crank position sensor gap it will not have any effect on idle mixture but if the gap is too large, on cranking it will give a weak signal.


On 4th Mar, 2019 JT said:
Would the gap affect the fueling at idle? I haven't got a miss fire.


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
Post Whore

Hertfordshire

Sorry when I said gap I meant sensor gap.
I'm going to check for leaks with wd40 while it idles.
I'll also report back with what the boost gauge reads at idle.

Won't be for a few days.

Thanks

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
Post Whore

Hertfordshire

Ok I'm with the mini now. When it idles the boost gauge is sitting at around -15 in/HG.
Does that sound right?

I've checked for air leaks and I'm sure there's nothing a miss in all the pipe work.

I'm starting to wonder if it's something wrong internally with the carb...

It will sit idle fine, be it off gauge weak with mixture screw all the way in. Then all of as sudden it'll decide to rev up on its own. Blap the throttle and it settles back down again.

I've checked the piston moves freely and it does.

Anything else to check before I take the carb off?

Cheers
Josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985


turbominik

76 Posts
Member #: 8976
Advanced Member

Hi -15 in/Hg is good probably is something wrong with the carb. Its better that you take it out and dismantle it. Probably when you took out the engine and removed the carb from the engine some dirt got loose in the float chamber and is blocking the main jet.


JT

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2742 Posts
Member #: 637
Post Whore

Hertfordshire

Yes I'm wondering that

I had this same problem before so I replaced the choke seals and throttle seals.
Going to take it to bits again and inspect/replace everything. I must have missed something.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

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